ukmidlands
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could someone explain the major differences between these strobes, and which would be better for olympus 750uz. how well does the ys90auto aperture dial for controlling output work?
ys90dx vs ys90auto
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Gilligan
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I see no one has responded to your post so far. The only help I can be to you is to give you this link which talks about comparing strobes and lists the YS90DX.
This link talks about using manual camera settings but it also emphasizes using manual strobes over TTl ones which you may find interesting. That would lean towards the YS90Dx which I believe is manual.
I hope this is some help to you.
This link talks about using manual camera settings but it also emphasizes using manual strobes over TTl ones which you may find interesting. That would lean towards the YS90Dx which I believe is manual.
I hope this is some help to you.
RESCUEDIVER
Contributor
I have 1 90A- I've only shot about 250 pics with it; most to get the range and setup of the strobe.
I'm happy with it. The main difference is that the 90DX is fully manual, while the 90A is supposed to quench (shut off) the strobe when the strobe thinks enough light has been delivered to the subject based on the aperature setting. IT IS NOT FOOL PROOF. Realize, I said it quenches when the STROBE thinks there is enough light....not the camera, so you have to "dial it in" initially to get an idea how it is reacting to a specific environment. After that, just adjust your camera's manual settings and match the aperature setting on the strobe to match the camera (at ISO 100)...you can adjust the strobe setting 1 f stop to compensate for ISO 64 or 200 (yuk) settings
It really operates in a an automatic/quasi-manual mode. I found it less hectic to use than the manual controlled strobe I had previously....it is supposed to be a single unit version of the Ike set ups
Like any fiber slaved stroobe, you have to get familiar with its settings and use
There's no such thing as a free lunch with digital and strobes....but this appears to the start of the sandwich
I'm happy with it. The main difference is that the 90DX is fully manual, while the 90A is supposed to quench (shut off) the strobe when the strobe thinks enough light has been delivered to the subject based on the aperature setting. IT IS NOT FOOL PROOF. Realize, I said it quenches when the STROBE thinks there is enough light....not the camera, so you have to "dial it in" initially to get an idea how it is reacting to a specific environment. After that, just adjust your camera's manual settings and match the aperature setting on the strobe to match the camera (at ISO 100)...you can adjust the strobe setting 1 f stop to compensate for ISO 64 or 200 (yuk) settings
It really operates in a an automatic/quasi-manual mode. I found it less hectic to use than the manual controlled strobe I had previously....it is supposed to be a single unit version of the Ike set ups
Like any fiber slaved stroobe, you have to get familiar with its settings and use
There's no such thing as a free lunch with digital and strobes....but this appears to the start of the sandwich
I have been using the YX90DX for a couple of years. I used a friends 90AUTO on a trip for quite a few dives and didn't care for it at all. Every time I changed aperture on the camera, I had to change it on the strobe. And the so-called TTL system seldom worked as it should or was advertised or I was led to believe.
I enjoy the manual operation of the 90DX because I am in control of my exposures. I only have to change the strength of the DX when I either go deeper (about every 20 ft.) or the ambient light changes.
KISS...Keep It Simple Stupid. I believe this. The less that anything does automatically, the better results I get.
I enjoy the manual operation of the 90DX because I am in control of my exposures. I only have to change the strength of the DX when I either go deeper (about every 20 ft.) or the ambient light changes.
KISS...Keep It Simple Stupid. I believe this. The less that anything does automatically, the better results I get.
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