Yoke to DIN

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soamelt

Contributor
Messages
743
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Location
Boca Raton, FL
# of dives
200 - 499
I just purchased the conversion kit to convert my DSV from yoke to DIN. I'm not handy and I know nothing about my reg (from a service stand point). I spoke with Gene @ Zeagle Express who said it was pretty easy to do and gave me a quick run through over the fun a few days ago. Are there any online instructions for this?
 
There are a few things you can do wrong here and there are some torque requirements that should not be overlooked. It might be better to let a shop handle this. I'd expect the bill to be under $20 (or I'd look elsewhere).
 
There are a few things you can do wrong here and there are some torque requirements that should not be overlooked. It might be better to let a shop handle this. I'd expect the bill to be under $20 (or I'd look elsewhere).

Looking at the pieces, it looks pretty easy and straight forward to my non-mechanically trained eye. The hardest part looks like taking off the nut on the inside of the yoke connection which I don't have anything that fits (looks like I need a 1" socket wrench). I guess I'd be taking in regardless. Thanks.
 
It's simple to do, but without the socket its not near as fun. SOME big adjustable wrenches can span the yoke to get to the flats of the gland nut.
 
Looking at the pieces, it looks pretty easy and straight forward to my non-mechanically trained eye. The hardest part looks like taking off the nut on the inside of the yoke connection which I don't have anything that fits (looks like I need a 1" socket wrench). I guess I'd be taking in regardless. Thanks.

Most take a special 1" socket but it is possible to remove it by holding the reg in a padded vise and using a large adjustable wrench. Done carefully, you should be able to avoid scratching anything. The din retainer should install with an allen wrench but should be tightened to a specified torque with a suitable torque wrench. It is something that can be done but not usually attempted by the "not handy". Depending on mfgr specs, torque is usually in the 15 to 30 Ft lb range which is fairly significant on brass connections. And, due to corrosion and deposits, quite a bit more torque may be required for disassembly. If it is too difficult, you need to know when to resort to other means to loosen corrosion and deposits to avoid damage.

I am a big fan of DIY, but this is probably not a good job for the mechanically challenged. And it should be cheap and easy for a shop to do it. Your call.
 
I fooled around with it for a minute, the only thing I have that fits are pliers. I don't want to tear it up, so I'll just take it to my LDS tomorrow.
 
I fooled around with it for a minute, the only thing I have that fits are pliers. I don't want to tear it up, so I'll just take it to my LDS tomorrow.
@soamelt: I'm glad that you decided against using pliers for the procedure. That's the last thing you want to do on soft brass parts.

Unless you're in a rush to convert to DIN for some reason, why not exercise some patience and ask the reg technician to install the DIN parts during your next overhaul? Doing it this way won't cost you an extra cent and will ensure that the DIN part is tightened to the proper torque specs (if the reg tech is good). You won't have to buy any extra tools either.

Once you convert to DIN, add a spin-on DIN-to-yoke adapter to your save-a-dive kit.
 
I just need to get the adapter and an HP130 and my gear collection is complete........for a little while any way's.
@soamelt: Is there a pressing need for you to convert to DIN? If you haven't purchased the HP130 yet, you can try to get one with a DIN/K convertible tank valve. Most of the new Worthington steel tanks come with the Thermo Pro DIN/K valve. At least then you could use it with a yoke-configured first stage.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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