Which G 15 Housing

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I am looking at getting a Aluminum Housing for my G15. I am considering the Patima, Nauticam and Recsea. Which is better and why? I am planning on using a Sea and Sea YS-D1 and eventully will get a second. What cable should I use? Is there any difference in trays? Sorry for all the noob questions, but I buy once/cry once and would appreciate your feedback.
 
Depends on how you like to shoot. Are you sold on aluminum? I'm using mine in an ikelite housing and am very fond of the acrylic because I can visually see the o-ring and know I have a good seal. I love using wired strobes because they enable me to not deplete the internal battery on the camera by using it's flash and also allow faster recycle times ince you don't have to charge the internal flash for each shot. I also found the optically triggered strobes to be dicey when I tried them. Others on this forum believe that optical triggering is better, so that's for you to decided pluses and minus on each side.

The Ikelite unit with it's trays works very well and is comfortable to use.
 
I looked at many different housing and even corresponded with the manufacturers. Wound up buying the nauticam housing. However, that being said, I think that the new fantasea housing for this camera looks very nice and can be had for hald the price of the aluminum housings.

I also have the canon oem housing for it as well since the nauticam was not yet being shipped out when I went on my last trip. I may keep that housing as well.
 
i was waiting for the fantasea housing but ended up going with a ikelite housing, great customer support when ever there is issue, but again you want aluminum and both fantasea and ikelite are not made out of aluminum.
 
I would go for Nauticam as I prefer the buttons ergonomics to recsea and patima.

Having said that there is no CHDK build for the G15 yet which means this camera will only shoot TTL with the strobe in Program, Aperture and Shutter speed priority but not in manual
Until you can shoot TTL with this camera I would skip it altogether if you need something urgent and go for a Sony or Panasonic that can drive the strobe you want to buy in DS-TTL
There really is no benefit buying that strobe if you have to bracket in manual all the time.

At this stage the latest cameras that with the hack can drive that strobe are the S100 and the G12 all newer models will require manual strobe in camera manual mode
 
right now, I am leaning toward the Patima because of the sync cable capability.
 
You can synch your strobe with a fo cable in any of the housings you're looking at. Shooting with the strobe in manual is really easy... you should be able to get the feel for it by the end of your first dive.

If you are set on buying an aluminum housing and live in the US then go with nauticam. If you live in Europe I have heard that patima is less expensive there compared to nauticam. However, the nauticam comes with a round port that has a 67mm thread so it will be easy to use wet lenses without buying an adaptor.
 
I really think you should reconsider your camera/strobe situation. Yes it is easy to shoot manual with the strobe but is not easy to get decent pictures, as a newbie you really don't want the added complexity of bracketing on the strobe you should go for a set up that is user friendly and you just have to point and shoot
I would consider carefully what kind of photos you are after, if it is nudibranchs portraits maybe this can work if you want to take different shots it is much more complex to balance ambient light and strobe manually and maybe you need to look at a different set up
 
I've had really good luck shooting in A and T and even P to get TTL and not really had to resort to manual at all on either my G15 or G9. So I don't believe it's as much as a dealbreaker as Interceptor121 does, but YMMV.
 
The Patima has the bulkhead for the Sync Cord. I don't believe the Nauticam does. I was planning on using a sync cord for extended battery life of my camera. Both have 67mm threaded ports. The Patima is 100 Bucks cheaper. I f Fiber optic is superior, then a bulkhead is not important.

I have already made my decision about which camera to use. I am not concerned with no TTL in manual.
 
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