We'll Go Back to the Brac ... Trip Report Oct. 18-25th, 2008

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Scuba Monster

Contributor
Messages
173
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Location
Houston, TX
# of dives
200 - 499
Brac Reef - The Resort

Accommodations:
Comfort Inn quality, 3 star accommodations, the rooms are simple, clean with a tropical decor. We requested a 2nd floor room, which turned out to be the best option in my opinion. There are 10 rooms on the 2nd floor without a balcony and our room was the closest room to the beach with a balcony (room #212).

The Restaurant & Food:
Yummy ... buffet style for breakfast, lunch and dinner. There were plenty of choices such as omelets for breakfast, beef and chicken kabobs for lunch, fresh green salads for lunch and dinner, tasty pork cops with a peppery sauce, prime rib, and seafood pasta.

The Bar:
Entertainment (using the term loosely) almost every night with Orientation/Manager night on Monday, Wednesday Karaoke (not my personal favorite, but others seemed to enjoy it), Thursday night Bingo and movie, and Friday night BBQ (not part of the food package). Our resort package included 3 free drinks per day, which you could choose from soda, juice, bottled water, house wine, beer and well spirits.


Some Notes from My Dive Log:

Charlie's Reef: partly cloudy day, you can see Little Cayman from here, southern stingray at beginning of dive, I spotted 2 scorpion fish, no sign of Tristan the Turtle, barracuda, cluster **** of divers at the ladder on exit
End of the Island: large schools of chub, Caribbean spinney lobsters, found a lettuce slug, queen angel fish, 2 large spotted drum, Nassau groupers, tiger grouper, fire worm, my dive buddy was slipping into old bad habits and wandering off; excellent exit out of water by me in rougher seas, but not so much for the yellow fin lady
Wilderness Wall: mini nurse shark hiding in coral (not sandy bottom), swim throughs, southern stingray, at least 6 barracuda, rough at surface rope line out
Lighthouse Reef: cloudy day, has not rained on us yet; a youthful exuberant diver landed on my dive buddy, Ken Maynard, in a swim through entrance; the young diver did not see Ken and practically straddled his tank; once Ken was aware someone was on top of him, he swatted him off like a fly, took a deep breath, sank a little deeper and swam away; swimming nurse shark; rained after the dive
Airport Wall: hawksbill turtle, crab on wall, huge barrel sponges and one growing upside down on wall, 1st green moray of the trip, dolphin fish a/k/a mahi-mahi, family of blennies (3 of them), Nassau grouper
Kissamee Wreck: saw at least 5 southern stingrays, hawksbill turtle, big anchor and tugboat, long swim into current back to boat; one diver panicked and surfaced as he was running low on air, his dive buddy did not go up to help
Snapper Reef: today is beautiful, better visibility, Venus flytrap like clam; 2 anemone, large schools of grunts, mini spotted drum, 2 French angels, longhorn blenny (I think), mini hawksbill turtle
Buccaneer Reef : Brac Southern Stingray City! saw 3 rays, one of the better shallow dive sites of the trip, barrel sponges, 3 lobster, Nassau grouper hiding and thought I couldn't see him. I waved hello from a distance and scared him further under the rock; scorpion fish, honeycomb cowfish, bright and sunny day, slight breeze
Double Wall: one of my favorite dives of the trip, hawksbill turtle, 2 great barracuda (one chased my buddy), Nassau grouper, lobster, great barrel sponges, tubular sponges, queen trigger chased off southern stingray


The Wreck MV Capt. Keith Tibbets: Wreck dives usually are not my favorite, but this one is exciting and worth diving. For those of you that do not know about the wreck of #356, it was a Russian Destroyer built in 1984 and stationed off Cuba. After The Cold War, Russia abandoned the ship. The Caymanian Government purchased the discarded hunk of metal from Cuba and sank it for recreational diving in 1996. The ship must have been a colossal waste of money for Russians, but has become a renowned dive site and an interesting piece of history.

The outside of the wreck was longer than a football field - the biggest wreck I've dived. You could see the guns, turbine engines amongst coral, sponges, blennies, clams, scorpion fish, spotted eagle ray, stingrays in the sand and barracuda. For our night dive, we headed back to the wreck. Some of the night critters included two Caribbean octopuses (my favorite), a southern stingray, Spanish hogfish, and a GIANT yellow fin grouper almost at big as me!

I can't tell you about the inside of the wreck, unfortunately. We were with an oversized dive group the day we dived the wreck. Reef Divers took our regular group we were diving with that week, plus 5 more divers, 2 snorkelers, a videographer and the boat crew. We had 24 people on the boat that morning (my only criticism of Reef Divers). I named one of the dive groups on our boat, the "no buddy dive group." This group of eight was great at buoyancy control, monitoring their gages, and taking safety stops, but when it came to the buddy system, there wasn't one. For someone who likes to dive with their buddy, this type of dive group can be a challenging to dive with. At one point, I was lined up directly behind the dive master to follow her and a guy diving with her as a buddy into the wreck, suddenly the no buddy dive group descended in a pile, pushing me further away from the entrance. They were clueless that my buddy and I were next, or even there. I looked at my buddy, disappointed, but signaled to move on - not worth it!

Boat Crew
Our boat crew was Paul, Chloe, and Barbie. They were friendly, funny, courteous and always there for a good laugh or two during the surface intervals. Pee Paw, if you read this, Lindsey wasn't there until our last day, so I didn't have the opportunity to say hi.

Little Cayman (March '08) vs. Cayman Brac (Oct. '08)

Our dive package in this trip included a 2 tank trip to Little, so we were able to dive Mixing Bowl. We saw many of my favorites medium sized spotted drum, scorpion fish, 2 turtles, yellow spotted ray, 4 lobsters, a crab, Nassau groupers, and a nurse shark swimming. The sun was shining, the water was calm, visibility was great, coral appeared healthy - I loved this dive!

Mikes Mount was our 2nd dive for the day on Little, which was so-so. The visibility was poorer, the sun wasn't beaming we just didn't seem to see as much and the coral didn't seem as healthy on this site. Although, there are many other dives sites I really like on Little.

Back at the Brac, our dive site was the Fisheries that afternoon. One of my favorite shallow dive sites on Brac. This was a fantastic dive! We saw all kinds of marine life including a juvenile trunk fish, lobster, schools of snapper, 9 lettuce sea slugs, and schools of chub. I was so excited - it was my first time to spot a juvenile trunk fish the size of a pea.

Some of the wall dive sites I enjoyed on Brac were Airport Wall, Double Wall, and Wilderness Wall. These sites were similar to Little. For shallow sites, two that stand out were Fisheries and Charlie's Reef. We saw far more southern stingrays on Brac than when we dived on Little. We saw almost one stingray on every dive. If there was one ray, we usually saw at least one or two more. On our March dive trip to Little, we saw five reef sharks together circling above the coral, less the 25ft away from the boat - that was quite thrilling!

Topside, Cayman Brac has more to tour than Little. We took an afternoon off and explored the island by car. The bluff is quite impressive; beaches are dramatic with white sands and lush, green mangroves. There are also bat caves and hiking trails to explore. I was interested in finding the shop, Native Island Made, to purchase a Caymanite piece, which I did. On Little, we only investigated the West corner by bicycle, which was enjoyable too, but different. As a comparison, Brac has a bit more to see with gorgeous views from the bluff as well.

Brac Reef Resort and Little Cayman Resort, being sister properties are very similar. And the dive op is Reef Divers for both, so that is similar as well. The restaurants are similar, pools are similar, bar areas are similar, and dive sites are somewhat similar. I liked the bar atmosphere at LCBR better, since was decorated with all shapes and sizes of driftwood painted by divers that have stayed and dived there. However, there was a new outdoor bar built at BR, which didn't have the driftwood, but I liked the bar staff better. Cicero was a one of the bartenders at BR from Brazil, who was friendly and social. He also was a diver and liked to talk about diving! Ken Maynard and I enjoyed chatting with him in the evenings.

Overall, I think Brac and Little are fabulous islands to visit and dive. Even though they are similar, they still have their differences. If you need more topside stuff to do, then Brac might be the better choice. If you want to go diving, try them both! We'll definitely go back to the Brac and Little too.
 
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Nice report. Glad you had a good time.
Turns out Lindsey was with us in Florida.

I can't wait to get there for Christmas !
 
Great trip report. Nice analysis of the two islands. Either island offers some of the best diving in the Caribbean.
 
Unfortunately it looks like you may've been the last guests to Brac Reef for a while:

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/3962241-post24.html
This is on storm carib........

Brac Reef is a total loss. What is still standing will have to be torn
down.The Lobby, office, gift shop, spa, bar, and restaurant are all
completely demolished. They lost the roof off of the top floor's rooms and
have major damage to the bottom floor's rooms. The staff housing has roof
damage but isn't too bad off.

The 30 tourists who stayed at the hotel are all fine the other 10 who went
to a shelter are also safe. If you could post this on stormcarib for their
families that would be great..They are planning to fly them out this
afternoon as long as they can get the plane in.

I also heard from Perry McLaughlin that all 200 people who stayed on
Little Cayman are safe. There is a lot of damage to the roads but it looks
like they got lucky as far as major damage goes.
 
We were extremely fortunate to have the great experience and dive trip to BR only two weeks ago. I am deeply sorry to hear that Brac suffered such extensive damage from Paloma, but glad to know the staff, locals, and guests are okay. I wish the staff at BR and Reef Divers all the best in their recovery efforts and still look forward to returning to Brac in the future.
 
It is going to be a huge challenge for the Brac to rebuild and make it a diving destination. It could be a year or two or, it could go the other way and have no diving for quite a few years. If you know where the good diving is on the Brac it can rival Little Cayman. Since the Brac Reef resort was the only resort left I hope they rebuild and don't go the way the Divi went.

All the best to those who are rebuilding.
 
(snip)
Some Notes from My Dive Log:

Charlie's Reef:
...cluster **** of divers at the ladder on exit

Saw this and your latter comment about the "no buddy dive group": the general enjoyment of any trip can be influenced a great deal by the actions of other fellow guests. For independent travelers, the dynamics introduced by organized groups can thus be a factor, and easily a negative one, for a variety of reasons. For example, the group can be inwardly focused on their existing friends and thus appear cold and unfriendly to outsiders, etc.

The hard part can be in recognizing that this is usually more an attribute of the visitors and not necessarily the destination itself, although the staff does also contribute their part in terms of how they're trying to balance the interests and needs of two potentially distinct client groups. In general, its not unlike how some people on vacation are "Party Animals" whereas others are quiet. For those who prefer quiet, a rule of thumb that I've developed since discovering the Brac 20 years ago is what my wife & I call the "One More Flight" Rule, because it seems taking the effort to get off the beaten path tends to change the quality of the visitors to those particularly interested in that destination, not simply "Any Beach" to host a party every night.

As a generally independent traveller, I try to not hold it against a destination if one happens to be there when there's also a group of some sort, unless it is a destination that specifically caters to attracting tourgroups, which puts independents in a distinct minority. Having dived with Reef Divers several times over the years, they try to seek the middle ground, and generally do pretty well at giving a group their own boat, and putting the independents together on a second boat. The challenge is when there's a cohesive group that's 40%-75% the size of a full boat.

The Wreck MV Capt. Keith Tibbets: Wreck dives usually are not my favorite, but this one is exciting and worth diving. ... I can't tell you about the inside of the wreck, unfortunately. We were with an oversized dive group the day we dived the wreck. Reef Divers took our regular group we were diving with that week, plus 5 more divers, 2 snorkelers, a videographer and the boat crew. We had 24 people on the boat ... At one point, I was lined up directly behind the dive master to follow her and a guy diving with her as a buddy into the wreck, suddenly the no buddy dive group descended in a pile, pushing me further away from the entrance. They were clueless that my buddy and I were next, or even there. I looked at my buddy, disappointed, but signaled to move on - not worth it!

Dropping 24 divers on the 356 wreck is around 10 divers too many for it to be enjoyable IMO. The practical limit for the wreck is one buddy team at:
  • Forward Gun Deck
  • Fwd Corridor
  • Bridge/Upper deck
  • Turbine Debris field
  • Engine Room
  • Radar Tower
  • Rear Gun Deck

...with the exterior and a few other interesting spots being left open to minimize silting and to allow vacancies to allow each team to move around to each location without overtly having to wait for its current occupants to leave.

In general, this is why I generally either go check out the interior immediately, or avoid the wreck entirely for 15 minutes at the beginning of the dive and go over and visit Margo's Corner.

Mikes Mount was our 2nd dive for the day on Little, which was so-so. The visibility was poorer, the sun wasn't beaming we just didn't seem to see as much and the coral didn't seem as healthy on this site. Although, there are many other dives sites I really like on Little.

Mikes is kind of an unusual site for a 2nd dive; viz can be hit-or-miss there as it, like Magic Roundabout to the East, is a bit more exposed and can get surface turbidity from sand or green from inside of Jackson's if the wind/waves are conspiring.

Insofar as coral health, LC is suffering along with the rest of the Caribbean. There was just an article in _Undercurrent_ (Oct 2008, page 5) that stated that based on formal surveys, coral coverage has declined by roughly 40%, from 26.3% coverage in 1999, declining to 15.8% in 2004.

Some of the wall dive sites I enjoyed on Brac were Airport Wall, Double Wall, and Wilderness Wall.

I'm not disagreeing: just noticing that none of these are Northside walls.

... I was interested in finding the shop, Native Island Made, to purchase a Caymanite piece, which I did.

NIM Things took a hit from Paloma, but Starry & Tenson are OK.

However, there was a new outdoor bar built at BR, which ...

...the new bar appears to be gone in the current photos. Since it only opened this past (late) September, they only got around 5-6 weeks of life out of the structure.

IIRC, Cicero was living down at the house at the end of the island on the southside (not far from BRBR); I'll have to look through some photos to see how much damage it might have taken. At the very least, the road down to there was flooded out for awhile when the Airport pond drains clogged.

Overall, I think Brac and Little are fabulous islands to visit and dive. Even though they are similar, they still have their differences. If you need more topside stuff to do, then Brac might be the better choice. If you want to go diving, try them both! We'll definitely go back to the Brac and Little too.

Pretty much the same conclusion I've reached; glad you enjoyed them...and hope that they're able to rebuild their islands after Paloma.


-hh
 
Brac Reefs web site does state that they plan on opening early in 2009. I hope this is true, I really miss the Divi and would hate to see no dive ops on the Brac as diving is really great on the Brac and LC.
 
-hh: My bud and I have the same theory we refer to as "one flight beyond". Glad to see we are not the only ones who look for a quiet time.
 
-hh: My bud and I have the same theory we refer to as "one flight beyond". Glad to see we are not the only ones who look for a quiet time.

Ditto on that.

FWIW, I have a humorous update to the "one flight beyond" / "one more flight" travel philosophy; this one literally happened just last Thursday afternoon.

It was on the first homeward leg of our trip, so it is what would have been called the "one flight beyond" on the way out. It was an hour-long flight out of the Bush, the first hour of what was a ~30 hour journey home from a 13 day photo safari in Tanzania.

We were flying on a Cessna 210 Centurion, a single engine 6-seat aircraft. Due to weight/balance considerations for the 5 of us who were onboard (including the pilot), I was assigned to sit in the co-pilot's seat.

The weather was good and our take-off from the dirt airstrip was uneventfully safe: no elephants ran out in front of us (a group of 6-8 had actually crossed the strip around 10 minutes earlier) and we uneventfully climb up to our 7,500ft cruising altitude...at which this story begins. The pilot trims her out, turns to me and says:

"I have something I have to do. Pull your seat forward and take the controls."

(um, excuse me?)

But as they say, "Captain's orders".
So I slide forward and take the pedals & yoke and fly the airplane for a short while.

The things that can happen when you're travelling "one more / beyond"...


-hh

PS: for more off-the-beaten-path, you might enjoy watching this TV Series.
 
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