Weight check on boat dive

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anchochile

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I'm about to do my first boat dives on a trip to the Channel Islands, and with the warm temps they're having, I'll probably be using just my 7mil and dropping the 5-mil shorty that I usually wear as a 2nd layer. I'll also be using a LP95 (I'm used to diving HP100).

I'll have less neoprene buoyancy, but I think the LP95 is also a few lbs more positive than the HP100 when empty, so I'd like to get my weight dialed in on the first dive.

I'm diving a BP/W with no pockets. All my weight is on my cam bands (6 lbs) and a weight belt (6lbs). Is it safe to carefully unclasp my weight belt at the end of the dive while on the anchor line and hand off weights to my buddy? This is how I do my weight checks shore diving, but I have a nice sandy bottom at 10-15 feet to sit on.

I'm wondering if it might be better to just check my buoyancy on the anchor line at the end of every dive w/ empty wing and 500-700 psi in my tank. If I'm still negatively buoyant at that point, drop 2 lbs for the next dive, and continue like so until I find myself neutral at the end of the dive. It might take a few more dives to get my weight right, but probably the smarter move than taking off the weight belt on the anchor line, yes?
 
I was in the same situation last month with a new layer combination and new BC. Be ready to get in the water as soon as they open the pool. This should give you some time at the end of the dive to do some weight checks. At the end of my 1st dive, there were still a number of divers in the water. With 700-800 psi in the tank, I went ahead and did a few weight checks at the back of the boat. Dump all the air from the BC and check your buoyancy. If your heavy, add some air to the BC, and hand a few pounds up the boat (either the DM or dive buddy can help). Dump air and repeat process until you get it dialed in. I would recommend bringing along your own 1 and 2 pound weights. These are usually low quantity, if available at all on the dive boats.
 
I don't think you'd want to hand 6 pounds off to your buddy, who will become too heavy and have something else to hang on to while hands are already busy with trail lines and instruments, so not peachy at the end of a dive from deep water.

You need to be able to sink, but also not too light at the end such that you can't stay "down" at the 15' safety stop. A couple pounds "extra" will help you be "heavy" enough at the end, since you will have "breathed away" about 4 pounds of air during the dive.

And you're right to think about testing using one or two pounds less on your second dive. You will be more relaxed then and breathing slower than when you started, your suit's been thorougly wetted, so you're a little "heavier".

A good weight check after splashing in, is to add or give away weights so that on a full inhale, with you vertical in the water, the water cuts across your mask glass at eye level. This should give you a descent without struggling (just exhale, and hold it til you are about 5-10 feet underwater, then resume normal breathing). And at the end, you'll still be just heavy enough to stay level at the safety stop
 
and hand a few pounds up the boat (either the DM or dive buddy can help).
Is what he said...

Not this...
I don't think you'd want to hand 6 pounds off to your buddy, who will become too heavy and have something else to hang on to while hands are already busy with trail lines and instruments, so not peachy at the end of a dive in deep water.

Nothing wrong with either the boat hand or your buddy helping you out on the boat or on the ladder... :)
 
Depending on the specs of the tanks, they could be very similar, and if that is the case all you are doing is ditching a 5mm shorty. Big deal if you are a couple pounds heavy.

Case in point

PST HP100 3500PSI is -1.3 empty and -8.8 full
Faber LP95 2400PSI is -1.2 empty and -8.3 full
 
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This is a classic problem when diving from boats while messing with your configuration. It is one of the proper practicalities of sea diving.

What I end up doing is either an explicit weight check or just adjusting gradually from probably too heavy down to ok. Sometimes this means starting a dive, realising I am not getting down and returning for more lead.

If you can do an explicit weight check, say off the back of a liveaboard then it is the best way. I don’t really fancy messing about above a deep bottom at the end of a dive. Mistakes of dropping a weight or popping up quickly are both worse then.

Another option might be a shot belt. Then you can remove the weights (solid or shot) one at a time without completely removing the belt. Or (and the scuba police will be along to take me away)put some weight in a pocket. In the OP’s case maybe put a weight on the harness waist belt, that will be easier to remove and hand off than one of many on your actual belt.
 
My diving is usually shore and simple, so I may be missing something here.
Why not just do a normal weight check (a la PADI -- BC empty, normal breath, eyes at sea level, exhale and should slowly sink---good to go. Down too fast, too much wt. -- Can't sink, not enough).
In pool? Add 5-6 pounds for salt water.
Then no need to when on the boat.
I understand you have no pockets to add weight, etc., but perhaps clip a bag or something to a D Ring?
What you suggest seems like a lot of checking after each dive.
Not sure why you need a sandy bottom to do a weight check.
But I've never dived BP/W, so yes, I may be missing something.
 
Is what he said...

Not this...


Nothing wrong with either the boat hand or your buddy helping you out on the boat or on the ladder... :)

I read the original post the same way that Nolatom did: on the anchor line, handing a six pound weight belt to his buddy.

Is it safe to carefully unclasp my weight belt at the end of the dive while on the anchor line and hand off weights to my buddy?

Maybe different people interpret this differently, but the boats I've been on in the Channel Islands have had anchor lines that run from the bow. Which means hanging on the anchor line while handing weights to someone on deck is very... challenging. And if the OP is on the anchor line, the buddy shouldn't be back on the boat already.
 
My diving is usually shore and simple, so I may be missing something here.
Why not just do a normal weight check (a la PADI -- BC empty, normal breath, eyes at sea level, exhale and should slowly sink---good to go. Down too fast, too much wt. -- Can't sink, not enough).
In pool? Add 5-6 pounds for salt water.
Then no need to when on the boat.
I understand you have no pockets to add weight, etc., but perhaps clip a bag or something to a D Ring?
What you suggest seems like a lot of checking after each dive.
Not sure why you need a sandy bottom to do a weight check.
But I've never dived BP/W, so yes, I may be missing something.

This is what I do. I like to do it at the start of the first dive and then again at the end (since it should be done with your tank low, but reality is we rarely take a 500# tank into the water at the start of the day to do a proper weight check).
 
This is what I do. I like to do it at the start of the first dive and then again at the end (since it should be done with your tank low, but reality is we rarely take a 500# tank into the water at the start of the day to do a proper weight check).
I do it at the start as well. But I haven't done one in years. I did one a while back when I dropped 20 pounds of body weight. There is no reason for me to do it before each dive, as my equipment never changes, and I have a list of what weight I need for each of my 3 wetsuits.
 

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