Water Temps - Sea of Cortez LOB July/Aug

[bmorescuba]

I'm signed up for my first liveaboard after more than a decade of dive trips. My propensity for seasickness has so far prevented my from trying this, but I recently tested wearing the scopalamine patch and, fingers crossed, things went pretty well. A little nervous, but mostly super excited - this is somewhere I've always wanted to dive. The trip dates are end of July -> beginning of August.

I'm trying to get some clarification on what to expect from water temperatures. This is the Rocio Del Mar northern Sea of Cortez itinerary. We depart from Puerto Pencaso and spend most of the time near Angel Island and Bahia de Los Angeles. Online, temperature estimates say something like 78°F-82°F, the trip coordinator's website says up to 85°F, and the information packet from the Rocio says 70°F-85°F. I've also heard there may be significant thermoclines.

What I'm hoping is that someone has done this itinerary around this time of year and can recall what water temps they encountered. I want to pack as light as possible, but 70° is a lot different than 85° for me.

(I'm also hoping that someone tells me the water is really calm...if not, don't destroy my illusion...)

Thanks!

 

[AZTinman]

The information provided in the Rocio information packet is accurate. Isla Angel De La Guarda and Bahia de los Angeles are in the Northern Midriff Islands. There are deep underwater canyons in the Midriff Islands and upwellings from these canyons tend to result in cooler summer water temperatures than you typically find in other areas of the Gulf of California. Water temperatures in other areas of the Gulf typically get into the 85 degree range in late summer and early fall; it is unlikely you will see water temperatures that high in the Northern Midriffs.

It is a remarkable area that sees lots less divers than other areas in the Gulf. Dora and her crew know the area extremely well. Nervous, don't be; be super excited. You will see some really cool stuff.

The area around Bahia de los Angeles is a Mexican Marine Reserve (like a national park). Locals actually petitioned the Mexican government for this designation. Fishermen realized they were literally destroying the marine ecosystem and decided to make a move to promoting eco-tourism. Keep in mind, the area is extremely remote and it is tough for the government to catch poachers.

The archipelago of islands in Bahia are well-protected. Mountainous terrain in Baja on the west and Isla Angel De La Guarda (the longest island in Mexico) on the east typically result in reasonably calm sea conditions.

I was there last year during the same time frame you are scheduled to be there this year. My trip involved a 400+ road trek into Baja on challenging roads. The land-based operator I accompanied has been taking divers to Bahia for over ten years. She is a close friend of Dora. Together, I believe they explored diving Bahia before the Rocio Del Mar was built.

I wore a 3 mil wet suit with a 2 mill jacket underneath (no hood). It got a little cool on several dives, but overall, I stayed warm enough. No doubt, you will be chasing some whale sharks and a 3 mil will give you enough warmth and mobility (they swim lost faster than you think so you end-up getting a workout) to engage in pursuit. Some of the divers in our group actually just wore swimsuits when chasing whale sharks. If you tend to get cold easily, packing a 5 mil or something to layer under a 3 mil will work for actual diving. You will probably encounter some thermoclines; we did.

Tidal currents tend to be pretty heavy through the Midriff Islands. Think of water running through a funnel. The islands are obstacles water must flow around so current speed increases. The Rocio crew will schedule diving at locations that will minimize current issues.

I absolutely love the area. I am still weighing the decision to return this year.

If you have specific questions don't hesitate to pm me.

-AZTinman

 

[Damselfish]

We did that trip in mid-August a couple years ago. I don't recall precise temps, but we prefer 79-80F and above and were mostly ok on this trip in what we usually wear. It was probably a little cooler sometimes and there were definitely significant thermoclines on a few dives, but we survived to complain about it. Typically, there were sea lions zipping around us on those dives to distract us from the cold.

I wouldn't expect 85 but I don't think I'd be too concerned about 70, at least not on a regular basis. But if I did it again I'd err more on the side of warmth and take something a little heavier or an extra core layer and leave the extra t-shirts home.

 

[AZTinman]

After I posted last night, I remembered that I've got actual computer dive log data for my Bahia trip last year... duh! Rather than generalize about my recollection of water temperatures, here's some dive computer data from logged dives in the area:

Bahia de los Angeles Dive Computer Data

Date - Max Depth - Minimum Temperature
8/13/18 - 32' - 71 Degrees
8/14/18 - 43' - 72 Degrees
8/15/18 - 56' - 70 Degrees
8/16/18 - 65' - 72 Degrees
8/17/18 - 51' - 73 Degrees

You'll notice all of the temperatures from mid-August are in the low 70's. These temperatures were consistent for all of my dives throughout the islands in the archipelago. Honestly, I didn't remember water temperatures being that low; maybe it was because we got pretty hot during surface intervals or I was so focused on photographic targets that I didn't notice. Normally, the Gulf warms to its highest water temperatures in late summer and into the fall. If you tend to sensitive to cold, I recommend you take enough gear to keep you warm.

Others with dive data may want to share what they logged.

-AZTinman

 

[scopey42]

My Father and I are planning on driving down to Bahia de los Angeles at the beginning of August. We are going in a 2 wheel drive Ram 1500 with all our gear with a lockable truck bed.

Any tips on driving down?
Any hotel recommendations on where to stay in Bahia?
What were your highlights?
I am booked with Ricardo's Diving Tours, is there anything we should be sure to bring?

This is a combo trip my father and I are doing, starting in Monterey at point Lobos doing a dive there then heading down for 3 nights diving the Channel Islands off of the vision out of Santa Barbra, then heading down to San Diego and doing a dive at La Jolla Cove, then heading across the boarder and down to Bahia de Los Angeles for 3 days of diving there.

 

[AZTinman]

You'll be going down on Highway 1 and should not have the same rough road issues that we encountered on Highway 5. We always limit driving in Mexico to daylight hours due to potential road and animal hazard issues. Since you're going to be in the San Diego area, it might be worth making a weekday visit to the Baja Travel Club (www.discoverbaja.com). These folks are experts on most everything (mandatory vehicle insurance, tourist visas, and travel conditions) related to travel in Baja. (www.discoverbaja.com). Their office is not far from La Jolla.

Ricardo's runs a good panga diving service. HIs crews are well-versed in reading current issues. Do make sure to tip the boat crew.

The operator/friend who runs trips to Bahia uses the Villia Bahia Hotel (www.villiabahia.com). It's what I affectionately refer to as Mexican Rustic. The hotel sits right on the beach and we simply had Ricardo pick us up and drop us off every day in front of the hotel. Until recently, the hotel was off grid with power being generated via solar, wind and generator. Renovations this past winter included finally getting hooked into the power grid. Like most places in Bahia, water had to be trucked in, but we never had any issues with running out of water. If you're interested in staying at this particular hotel, I recommend that you look at a package deal for lodging and meals. The food at the hotel was amazing. I enjoyed the family that runs the hotel. There is other lodging available in the area, but I was too busy doing other stuff to pay much attention to what else was available.

Groceries (and beer/ice) are available in town. Given the decision by most of the residents to pursue a livelihood through ecotourism rather than commercial fishing, I like supporting the locals. Unless something has changed recently, there are no ATMs in town and very few businesses accept credit cards (Ricardo's might be set-up for credit card purchases). You'll want to have cash available for transactions.

I had signed-on with the trip because I was interested in pursuing some very specific content for a chapter in my sea lion book. The story I was anticipating took an unexpected turn. I came away with a story and the necessary accompanying photographs, but it wasn't the story I was expecting. Overall, the trip was exceptional.

-AZTinman

 

[bmorescuba]

Thanks for all the very specific information so far. I usually tolerate cold quite well, but if we're dipping into the low 70s I'm going to bring more than my 3mm shorty, which is what I was hoping to get away with. I'll bring a 3mm full and maybe a lavacore. In all these years I've never seen a whale shark, and only been breezed by a couple sea lions briefly - getting very excited!

 

[Damselfish]

I definitely got my fill of sea lions and whale sharks on that trip.

 

[AZTinman]

Yeah, a 3 mil shorty will not keep you warm in that area of the Gulf. Other potential issues are jellyfish and/or a critter we informally refer to as a 'string of pearls'. There's undoubtedly a scientific name for it, but they sting. I got hit a few times on the face last year. Stings aren't a big deal, but you know you've been stung. There are times when lots of tiny jellyfish appear in the Gulf. Full wet suit coverage reduces the risk of stings.

Last year, I was actually in Bahia to do some photographic work with sea lions. Specifically, I wanted to do a chapter about a group of bachelor bulls that lived on a small rocky island there. Unfortunately, poachers had killed the specific group I planned to photograph. There is a problem with drug cartel supported poaching in the Midriff Islands. Poaching is focused on catching totobato. Swim bladders from these fish bring an unbelievably high price on the Asian traditional medicine market. The fish (a species of croaker) live in the waters of the Midriff Islands and spawn in the extreme Northern Gulf in the spring. Sea lion penis bones are worth around $200.00 on the traditional market and poachers are opportunistic. Not that they are much of a deterrent, but you may see a Mexican Navy presence in Bahia.

By the way, if you are prone to sea sickness, you might want to use Bonine. It's a non-perscription drug that's an alternative to Dramamine. My wife uses it when she goes out on dive boats. I'm not really susceptible to sea sickness, but I take it if I'm going to be out on multiple day trips.

If you're lucky, you may see whales (there is a resident population of fin whales in the Midriffs), mega pods of dolphins and mobulas. About a week after we left last fall, a pod of orcas was observed and filmed in the area. It's an amazing area.

-AZTinman

 

[diversteve]

The Sea really doesn't get warm in summer although I have dove there - above the thermocline - in a t-shirt as late as October - landbased - not out to the Midriffs. Where there was a thermocline I stayed above it.

My buddy did that trip on Rocio a few years ago - probably lateJuly. He'd have brought his 5mil.

You do want something for the jellies - once a storm chewed them up and the pieces floated by us in the current. Stings if you're not used to it. A lycra skin works under a shortie - it's how another buddy dives there,