Vintage Aerotecnica Coltri MCH-6

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SurfLung

Contributor
Messages
195
Reaction score
212
Location
Central Minnesota
# of dives
500 - 999
Here's a Video of my little "AERO"...
- This is a 1980s era Aerotecnica Coltri MCH-6 scuba compressor. Over the summer I have been learning it, repairing it, upgrading it, restoring it, and for the last month or so... USING it extensively.
- Here's what was done:
1. The Briggs and Stratton engine was gummed up with bad old gas... Tank had to be cleaned. Carburetor screens cleaned. Carburetor gaskets and gas pump diaphragm replaced. Hose clamps replaced for a good seal. I've been running it on AVGAS which will not varnish and (I think) probably dissolves and cleans up the old varnish as it runs. The Briggs and Stratton now runs like a top.
2. The compressor ran fine right from the start. But the dissipator in the moisture condensation tower was broken. I tried various DIY fixes that helped some. But my latest idea seems to be the cats meow. Moisture removal at the tower seems to be at least as good as new compressors now.
3. The remote air intake hose was made from a Solberg filter and re-enforced hose from the hardware store. Its stiff enough not collapse from suction and there are no funny smells or tastes.
4. The PMV or Back Pressure Regulator was added to enhance moisture condensation like modern compressors. AND I am using Lawrence Factor pre-packed filters with a blue test strip for monitoring filter life. The original filter had nothing but charcoal. These LF filters are 60% 13X Sieve for moisture absorption plus 20% hopcalite for CO conversion and 20% activated charcoal to eliminate tastes and smells.
 
Bloody brilliant ha ha ha ha ha

Do you also have an intake filter on the compressor

I have one on the compressor but not on the hose
 
Thank you. The Solberg intake filter is on the remote end of the intake hose. There's a close-up of it near the beginning of the video. There wasn't any direct replacement for the original intake filter that was attached directly to the compressor. So, I didn't feel too bad about drilling thru it to make an attachment point for the hose.
 
he Solberg intake filter is on the remote end of the intake hose. There's a close-up of it near the beginning of the video.

Hi @SurfLung ,

Nice setup. What size, model, etc. Solberg filter did you use? Any modifications to it?

Thanks,

Couv
 
Good job! Quite a few parts are still available for that little guy.
 
Hi @SurfLung ,

Nice setup. What size, model, etc. Solberg filter did you use? Any modifications to it?

Thanks,

Couv
- I was just looking through my saved email receipts to see which Solberg... I think is is FS-07-075. I bought it originally for my RIX but I didn't realize it had a 3/4 thread which required a couple of reducers... and these vibrated too much to stay on the RIX. So I bought the proper sized one for the RIX (I think 3/8 threads) and simply had this 3/4 one left over and available for the end of the Aero remote hose.
 
My Fill Whip Idea...
Aerotecnica02.jpg

- The Back Pressure Regulator (BPR) I tried to mount directly onto the filter tube of my little Aerotecnica compressor (JIC connector) proved a little too heavy for the JIC joint and eventually the joint connector broke. The JIC connection is on a little 1/8 inch NPT and I think it was designed to handle the weight of a fill whip hose and no more.
- I looked at the manual for my other compressor (RIX SA3) and it positioned the BPR on the end of the fill whip with a gauge and bleed valve. So, I thought that might be a better way to include a BPR in my Aerotecnica system.
- The original Aerotecnica fill whip is nothing more than a yoke and a gauge... There isn't even a bleed valve. As the manual says, the compressor was designed to fill one tank at a time. So when you get to the desired pressure, you close the tank valve, open the drain valves, and turn off the compressor. Everything is depressurized at that point and the tank can be disconnected from the fill whip.
- The fill whip I put together above adds the benefit of the BPR for better efficiency in moisture removal and filteration, but it also serves as a one way check valve. So, the bleed valve is necessary to relieve pressure between the BPR and the tank before disconnecting.
 
Here's a Video of my little "AERO"...
- This is a 1980s era Aerotecnica Coltri MCH-6 scuba compressor. Over the summer I have been learning it, repairing it, upgrading it, restoring it, and for the last month or so... USING it extensively.
- Here's what was done:
1. The Briggs and Stratton engine was gummed up with bad old gas... Tank had to be cleaned. Carburetor screens cleaned. Carburetor gaskets and gas pump diaphragm replaced. Hose clamps replaced for a good seal. I've been running it on AVGAS which will not varnish and (I think) probably dissolves and cleans up the old varnish as it runs. The Briggs and Stratton now runs like a top.
2. The compressor ran fine right from the start. But the dissipator in the moisture condensation tower was broken. I tried various DIY fixes that helped some. But my latest idea seems to be the cats meow. Moisture removal at the tower seems to be at least as good as new compressors now.
3. The remote air intake hose was made from a Solberg filter and re-enforced hose from the hardware store. Its stiff enough not collapse from suction and there are no funny smells or tastes.
4. The PMV or Back Pressure Regulator was added to enhance moisture condensation like modern compressors. AND I am using Lawrence Factor pre-packed filters with a blue test strip for monitoring filter life. The original filter had nothing but charcoal. These LF filters are 60% 13X Sieve for moisture absorption plus 20% hopcalite for CO conversion and 20% activated charcoal to eliminate tastes and smells.

SL...

Suggest performing an air purity test...better sooner than later...Kits available through Trace Analytics...upon return and testing of samples..TA will provide you with an Air Purity Certificate...good for six months...

You need to read-up on the characteristics of Carbon Monoxide...if you're relying on taste and smell as a purity measuring indicator...you're flirting with disaster...especially if you're filling cylinders other than your own...

Sometimes ''cheap'' costs the most...

W.W...
 

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