Using two different strobes? Bad idea? Best configuration? (YS-110a and Oly UFL-2)

[jsnorman]

I have a D7000 in a Nauticam housing (just obtained used). Previously, with my Olympus m4/3 setup, I used the Oly UFL-2 flash alone; and I previously used the YS-110a as a single strobe in my Nikon D5000 setup in TTL mode before I had the UFL-2. I am keeping my UFL-2 as part of my light travel and backup camera system, primarily because I really like the results of having a "zoom headed" flash that automagically adjusts beam width based on zoom. Love it.

Anyway, I now have the Nauticam housing for my D7000, and I am trying to figure out what the best solution for dual strobes would be if I wanted two strobes on the D7000 housing, without having to buy another YS-110a (which I don't want to do right now since I plan eventually to upgrade to the newer YS-D2 units).

As far firing goes, I have these options I think:

(1) Don't bother. Stick with single strobe until I can afford to buy two matching strobes.

(2) YS-110a with TTL sync, and Oly UFL-2 in slave mode using fiber optic cable (the UFL-2 also has a TTL sync cable, but I cannot find any adapter to go to the Nikonos 5 pin bulkhead on my Nauticam).

(3) YS-110a with TTL sync, and Oly UFL-2 in manual mode.

(4) YS-110a and UFL-2 with fiber optic sync, using optical TTL mode (not sure if this will even work with UFL-2 and D7000 though).

(5) YS-110a and UFL-2 both in slave mode, fiber optic connections, with internal D7000 flash as trigger

Assuming I use both strobes and figure out the best firing option, what would the best aiming strategies be given the different light outputs? The UFL-2 has a GN of 20-36 (depending on beam angle which is adjustable), but I think that may be misleading as it is for a m/43 exposure which may be different? The YS-110a has a GN of 22. Both have the same color temp 5400K

Any thoughts appreciated.

 

[JackConnick]

Hi;

YS-110a will not sync in TTL to the D7000, either with hard wired or F/O cable. I don't think the UFL-2 will either as it uses RC mode, not available on the D7000. I think #5 is the best/only idea.

Or do yourself a favor and sell both and buy yourself 2 new YS-D2's or Inon z240's... ;-)

 

[jsnorman]

Hmmm...

What about option 6:

TTL 5 pin Nikonos cable to the YS-110a, and then run the Olympus in slave mode, with manual exposure just using cable to trigger flash (no TTL)? (FYI, the UFL-2 unlike the UFL-3 can be set for many modes not just Oly RC ... it also has an "auto" mode that is supposed to detect other flash and then adjust output and fire ... not sure if that would work here but it may).

The problem I have is that my upgrade plans are kind of expensive. If I do upgrade to two new strobes at the price point of the YS-D2, I probably want to get strobes that will work with Nikon's iTTL via sync cord (as I understand it, which may not be correct so please correct me if wrong), the YS-D2s use S-TTL via fiber, and cannot get the full benefit of Nikon's iTTL.

If I want to use Nikon's iTTL via my 5 pin Nikonos bulkhead, I think my only solutions are to go Subsonic with built in iTTL ($$$), or Ikelite DS series with Nikon iTTL adapter ($$). Or, if I can find someone with the Nikon TTL adapter that is no longer made that would be ideal. Are there any other options that would enable iTTL on the Nikon?

The subsonic and ikelite options are going to be pretty expensive, so I was hoping I could get by with what I have for a little while.

 

[JackConnick]

The S&S D-TTL works great.

The Ike and Subtronic methods are the only other way I know of. Ninon iTTL is an extremely old proticol.

Personally, I rarely shoot in TTL anymore except for macro. Having control over your strobes is more important and all TTL does is make you second guess.

I think you're over thinking it.

 

[bvanant]

I am with Jack. you will be much happier with manual shooting but if you do want to use TTL the optical TTL on the S&S strobes is quite good.
Bill

 

[jsnorman]

Okay, I think I got the point and will eschew trying to get TTL working. What about my other issue: what issues do I need to think about when using two very different strobes? Beam angles, power, etc. will be slightly different. I can adjust power output to try to match, but I doubt I can match perfectly. Will it matter? Should I try to use the more powerful strobe from the top and use the second more for effect (side lighting for example)? Or should I position as I would for two matching strobes and not worry about the differences in light?

 

[KeithG]

Okay, I think I got the point and will eschew trying to get TTL working. What about my other issue: what issues do I need to think about when using two very different strobes? Beam angles, power, etc. will be slightly different. I can adjust power output to try to match, but I doubt I can match perfectly. Will it matter? Should I try to use the more powerful strobe from the top and use the second more for effect (side lighting for example)? Or should I position as I would for two matching strobes and not worry about the differences in light?

you might be over thinking this a bit?

how accurately are you able to position your strobes? perfectly symmetrical? or just generally positioned and pointing in a similar manner? how often do you want perfectly symmetrical lighting?

i mostly shoot macro and generally find that i never use balanced lighting. i am always adjusting the strobe positions / power settings to provide uneven lighting.

 

[casts_by_fly]

Or sell the ufl2 and get another ys 110. You will loose a little of the autozoom functionality, but you will have matched strobes you can grow with into the nikon setup.

thanks
rick