Using CS3--Have the blues

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5615mike

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Tulsa, OK
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First, I am a neophite in this game at best. I have had my Oly 5060/Oly PT/20 for about 5 years. Have been fortunate enought to take a few good shots and actually several great ones. I do not use a strobe as I have not tackled that yet. Recently I purchased CS3 and used it for my RAW photos from Coz in Nov and again in May of this year. What I am finding is that CS3 does some amazing things but when I have my photos developed they come out far darker or bluer than they look on my screen when I manipulate them. I know I need to use a strobe but I just havent gotten there. If anyone has some suggestions to get my blues away I would appreicate it. CS3 is very involved and certainly I dont know much about using it other than the things I have played with. I always shoot raw underwater and frankly dont know how to manipulate JPGs in CS3........lol.
Here is an example.......
 

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mike--Hmmm, well yeah. P'shop is not simple--but there are some simple things that can be done with it. I'm wondering though about the "when I have my pictures developed" comment. Are you saying you get the files to look good in PS but when someone else prints them they look not so good? That sounds like a monitor calibration issue but I'm not sure that that is what you are saying.

You'll hear "get a strobe" and sure, world of difference. Not having one though, what you can do w/ RAW files is very flexible. However, you are starting from a very color shifted situation when dealing w/ available light uw and there are limits. I did a quick "fix" (see attch'd) on one of yours. Of course everyone has their own approach and Color Balance under Image>Adjustments is probably best to start with but I tend to also use "Channel mixer" a lot. You'll find it under Image>Adjustments>Channel Mixer (about half way down the menu list--though I use CS not CS3 so there may be some changes). There are 3 sliders for Source Channels(RGB) and 3 options for output (yep, RGB).

Sounds complicated. Isn't. Slide 'em and see. Work your way through each output channel using all 3 slider options--otherwise things will look so bad you'll stop at the first one! Be prepared to mess around and play with them, use a duplicate image to avoid accidents. And use Adjusment Layers for gosh sakes (the option is at the bottom of the Layers Palette, looks like a diagonal half moon symbol). Adjustment Layers WON'T mess w/ the image pixels themselves, so it is way faster on big files and also completely editable at any time, including just shutting it off.

I'm sure you've tried Auto Levels and Auto Color under Image>Adjustments and sometimes they help but usually not much--or not enough. Playing w/ other image adjustments yourself is the ticket. Using adjustment layers makes this fast and forgiveable. You can always flatten these layers later if you need a jpeg etc. Oh and why bother editing jpegs? If you shoot RAW and edit w/ RAW files you will ALWAYS have more information to edit and correct, unlike compressed jpegs.

If none of this makes much sense you might want to ck some of the many online p'shop tutorials for basic help before you tackle specific editing tasks but that's just a suggestion. Like most aspects of life, everyone will have an opinion of "what works best" for color correction issues. I happen to like and use Channel mixing a lot but there are plenty of ways to do the same thing in PS. Have fun. :eyebrow: // ww
 

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First, I am a neophite in this game at best. I have had my Oly 5060/Oly PT/20 for about 5 years. Have been fortunate enought to take a few good shots and actually several great ones. I do not use a strobe as I have not tackled that yet. Recently I purchased CS3 and used it for my RAW photos from Coz in Nov and again in May of this year. What I am finding is that CS3 does some amazing things but when I have my photos developed they come out far darker or bluer than they look on my screen when I manipulate them. I know I need to use a strobe but I just havent gotten there. If anyone has some suggestions to get my blues away I would appreicate it. CS3 is very involved and certainly I dont know much about using it other than the things I have played with. I always shoot raw underwater and frankly dont know how to manipulate JPGs in CS3........lol.
Here is an example.......
First of all, your problem is probably not CS3, but your monitor. If you dont calibrate your monitor with a calibration tool, the printed (or developed) colors will not be what your display shows.
Secondly Adobe LightRoom is much better at color corrections than PS is.


and

are both shot at 15-20 meters with a Canon G7 in RAW mode (CHDK), without a strobe.
The only adjustments ive made to them is a white balance correction in Lightroom, using the color selection tool.
Except some rezising that is.
 
From your description of the problem I to would guess it is a work path calibration problem.
No photo editing software can be accurate unless you know the entire path is calibrated to work together. There are sensors and software packages that can be purchased to calibrate your monitor. This should insure that what you see on screen is closer to what your edited pictures will look like when printed.
 
Well there ya go. I had no idea you had to calibrate your moniter. Getting ready to try that later this week. I also didnt know that lightroom could do so much. I probably could have gotten by with Lightroom and saved money rather than buying CS3. I just need more time with it. I have looked for some classes at the local colleges but have not found anything. I certainly could learn a great deal working with someone who really knows UW Photo but being landlocked in Oklahoma thats quite tough.

Thank you very much to those of you who responded and gave me some wonderful info.
 
Let my apologize for adding another wrinkle not mentioned so far.

My monitor is calibrated and I've processed my photos with Photoshop CS4 and with Lightroom 2.5. But there are other rubs that haven't been mentioned. You said "when I have my photos developed" which makes me nod in sympathy. To what calibration is the developer set? What is the calibration of the technicians eyeball doing the developing?

I recently went on a dive trip and shot well over a thousand shots. I printed a few on my photograde printer at home with pleasant results. Since it's actually cheaper for me to have prints made locally I submitted a batch of about 200 photos. To my amazement what I got back looked like I had done a lot more Night Diving than I remembered. Most shots pretty dark.... All azure's came out almost cobalt blue. Don't forget that what you see on your monitor - even if calibrated - may not be how the developers printer sees it especially if the tech is tweaking it according to how that person thinks they are supposed to look.

A really good developer (not local unfortunately) gives you the option of
choosing to either have them printed as submitted or letting their staff tweak them. An especially good place can also provide printer calibration files for their process.

My experience is that you stand a chance with your local developers if you are shooting photos that are familiar to them, but for specialty photos like underwater you need a true professional outfit.
 
My "local developer" (local is a pretty loose term where I live) actually told me to let them know pictures have been processed before they develop them so that they can disable the tweaks in their development process. We ran through a couple of test shots without the tweaks and with them and there was a noticeable differense in how some of the pictures looked with and without them..
 
5615 Mike:

Couple of thoughts. First, I was a Lightroom advocate untial CS4 came along. All the neat features in Lightroom that I liked were added to Camera RAW. Adobe Bridge was even up-graded, so now I wonder if I need PhotoMechanic as a browser.

Second, check out on-line processing firms like MPIX that receive and process your calibration information as part of their print production process. Remember that you not only have to calibrate your monitor, but also printer, projector, etc.

Cheers,

Dan
 

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