Using Climbing Ascenders for dropping tanks on a downline

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beldridg

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I've been reading the excellent book "Expedition Britannic" by Rick Ayrton.

On pages 80/81, he describes a technique of attaching bailout and/or deco cylinders to a downline using climbing ascenders.

We generally take all of our cylinders with us when diving in Southern California (for a few different reasons). However, I can see the benefit of of this technique in certain circumstances both here and elsewhere. It is a quick, easy way to attach a cylinder and be relatively sure it won't slide up or down the line.

My question is whether others have used this technique and, if so, which specific ascender they used?

Most ascenders are not designed to survive in saltwater so I'm wondering if anybody has found one that is better suited to this environment?

The picture on page 81 of the book looks a lot like a Petzl Left Ascender:

IMG_1200.jpeg


Product Image of color Black



Regards,

- brett
 
Does he say why he uses ascenders at all? The only time we remove our bailout cylinders on a dive is when we are in the shallow portion of the dive and you dont need your deep bailout. For this we just use a gear line, with fixed loops in the line.
The skipper just keeps throwing this in beside the floating deco station until everyone has deposited their unwanted gear.

Photo courtesy of Barry Mc Gill, Trip Organiser.
 

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I've been reading the excellent book "Expedition Britannic" by Rick Ayrton.

On pages 80/81, he describes a technique of attaching bailout and/or deco cylinders to a downline using climbing ascenders.

We generally take all of our cylinders with us when diving in Southern California (for a few different reasons). However, I can see the benefit of of this technique in certain circumstances both here and elsewhere. It is a quick, easy way to attach a cylinder and be relatively sure it won't slide up or down the line.

My question is whether others have used this technique and, if so, which specific ascender they used?

Most ascenders are not designed to survive in saltwater so I'm wondering if anybody has found one that is better suited to this environment?

The picture on page 81 of the book looks a lot like a Petzl Left Ascender:

View attachment 690987

Product Image of color Black



Regards,

- brett
Use a prusik loop? A lot cheaper and would work OK with paracord on a thicker downline.
 
Original response deleted to more accurately show the question I was responding to. See comment #6 below.
 
Does he say why he uses ascenders at all? The only time we remove our bailout cylinders on a dive is when we are in the shallow portion of the dive and you dont need your deep bailout. For this we just use a gear line, with fixed loops in the line.
The skipper just keeps throwing this in beside the floating deco station until everyone has deposited their unwanted gear.

Photo courtesy of Barry Mc Gill, Trip Organiser.

From the book:

"Cylinder Attachments

Cylinders will be attached to the shotline using ascenders. This enables them to be moved up the line as a casualty ascends without the need to detach the cylinder from the line. It also enables an unresponsive casualty to be attached to the line and cylinder that they're breathing from. The cylinder and casualty can then easily be moved up the line without the chance of losing touch with them."

- brett
 
Use a prusik loop? A lot cheaper and would work OK with paracord on a thicker downline.

A prusik would work as well and would be very simple and wouldn't have potential saltwater corrosion issues.

The only possible reason I see to use an ascender is that it could be quicker to attach and easier to move up/down the line?

Also, without some weight on the knot, a prusik might loosen up a bit as the downline moves around which could result in a tank either rising or sinking depending on whether it is positive or negative buoyant? I kinda doubt that would happen though if you cinched the prusik.

- brett
 
I do wonder if the Petzl would handle sudden up and down motions and the "thing" clipped off getting lighter and possibly pulling in the wrong direction. Waves can be quite violent and unclip things.

TBH one of the best things to use to hold it in place is a "longline" clip -- used for attaching your strobe to the line. Once clipped on properly these things cannot come loose. They're about 15cm/6" long. Swivels allow them to, well, swivel. Available in all good Amazon stores for a hell of a lot less than a Petzl ascender!

Longline clips.jpg
 
Use a prusik loop? A lot cheaper and would work OK with paracord on a thicker downline.
That's exactly what I was thinking we use them as safe stops on 3:1 systems. Not going anywhere you don't want them to.
 
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