Upgrade Suggestions

[Scubadude_LA]

Ok, here we go…..

Brief history for a background check: I’m not a super photo guru on land or underwater, never have been, but I like it, have been doing it for a while and don’t mind spending where it counts. Have been shooting since late 80s underwater and the progression has been starting in the Nikonos V world shooting either Kodachrome 25 for warm low light or Fujichrome 100 for more ambient light stuff. After a few floods over a few years I took a break and later transitioned to video only (MiniDV), then hit the easy button and have been doing the point-n-shoots with onboard video for a while in Ikelite housing/af35 strobe. Now I’m ready to keep the easy button when needed (like our offshore psycho trips where gear takes a beating, or bouncing like a pinball into a hi flow cave) but want to get an upgraded setup for getting back to some finer shooting when the environmental aspect or task loading of babying a higher end camera setup is not an issue.

So… Was looking to get something like a Canon 60D, Ike case and maybe a DS160 setup. Size matters though and after a little research I have pulled the trigger on an OMD EM5 body only. So moving forward I plan to get to know the camera well on land first. Optimally I would like to be frugal in my progression into the 4/3 format. So, looking for simple straight forward unbiased suggestions for a lens/strobe/arm entry setup. By entry I mean a single first lens/ port / arm combo. I previously used the included lens with the Nikonos V (the wide angle was a financial issue at the time), and had two or three extension tubes for macro with the same lens.

I’m thinking the Nauticam housing (100m nice ), would like to know the best route for lens and port with future progression in mind. What’s a good initial setup to burn some time on? I used to do ambient and low power flash stuff and really liked being able to put a tube on and shoot macro too, trying to just recreate that setup in the digital world to get started. I realize it’s a loaded question, my research time is limited and I want to be a guru, but realistically, just want to get a decent entry setup in 4/3s to keep me in the game while I strive for Extreme Underwater Photo Journalist Guru Status without buying stuff I’ll soon regret, I’m getting reborn here... As we know, camera equipment depreciates faster than cars…
To summarize: EM5, Nauticam housing, what first lens, strobe, arm to start to accomplish what I used to do with above mentioned Nikonos V, with intention of wider angle capability shortly after including appropriate flash coverage?

 

[mjh]

Welcome back to the "monetary black hole hobby!" As you know with the intercangable lens cameras you can use wet lenses on the macro side but not on the wide angle end, you have to pick a lens.

For macro you have two choices*: the Olympus 60mm is the best macro lens available but remember it is a 120mm on the EM5. Next you have the 12-50mm with it's macro mode. You get a decent all around lens with macro, at a price... To take advantage of the Electronic Zoom, great for video, and the macro mode you have to buy a $800 gear/port combo. Now both the 60mm & the 12-50mm can be shot behind the same port.

For wide you have several choices: Lumix 8mm Fish Eye, Oly 9-18mm and the Pani 7-14mm. I really like the 8mm lens but it is a true landscape, vista lens. Even mantas look small in it unless you are 1-2 meters away. The Oly 9-18 is very popular as is the Panasonic 7-14mm. The debate here is the 7-14mm worth the extra money??? Opinions seem evenly split.

If I had to buy one all around lens it would be the 12-50mm
If you lean to shooting wide angle it is a tough choice between the 9-18mm and the 7-14mm but remember you need the 6" semi-dome for the 7-14mm
With a more liberal budget I would lean to the 60mm + 12-50mm + 8mm = 3lenses and two ports

You are welcome for my making your choice more complicated

 

[Scubadude_LA]

This actually helps a bunch. Thanks!

 

[Scubadude_LA]

Next you have the 12-50mm with it's macro mode. You get a decent all around lens with macro, at a price... To take advantage of the Electronic Zoom, great for video, and the macro mode you have to buy a $800 gear/port combo. Now both the 60mm & the 12-50mm can be shot behind the same port.

Ok, tried researching on my own and hit a wall on a few things. No 12-50 user manual on the Olympus site.
So, I'm unsure of the specifics on the part about needing the $800 port/gear combo to take advantage of electronic zoom and macro mode?
I saw another post on this board about using the 4" port for 12-50, 60, and 9-18. I like that for now. I'm just not sure about what I would lose with the 4" port instead of the $800 version. I can only assume that the extra gear gives the ability to actuate the macro button. As far as zoom, I'm lost. I don't understand if how the zooms are actuated on these cameras.
There was also some mention of less expensive Austrian zoom gear, not sure if that applies.
With no user manual and no up to date knowledge of all this I can't figure it out I'm a complete noob again.

---------- Post added April 4th, 2013 at 10:36 PM ----------

Darn it, how do you delete a post on this site? Soon after posting above I see that there is info on the lens operation regarding macro etc in the manual for the OMD.
Anyhow , more info wouldn't hurt either...

 

[mjh]

Not to worry, gears, zooms etc...seem confusing till you actually see them. To use manual focus or the zoom there is a ring with gear teeth on it. This gear is made to the exact circumference of the lens. You slide the ring over the lens to the ring on the lens that rotates for zoom or focus. On the housing their is another gear that will mesh with the one on the lens allowing you to zoom/focus. By turning a wheel on your housing you can zoom the lens in and out.

In general gears were very simple as all they have to do is rotate zoom ring on your lens. Gears typically cost between $130-$230. Many of the new electronically zoomed lenses complicate things with zoom rings that do no just rotate but "push" forwards and backwards, some with buttons that need be pressed. For the Olympus 12-50mm the Zoom Ring rotates left to right and "pushes" forwards and back, in essence. Plus it has a button you have to push to use the Macro feature. Thus the $800 port and gear. There is a gear made by an Austrian company that allows you to zoom the 12-50mm but does not give you access to the Macro feature.

So......For those looking for one lens that "can do it all" the 12-50mm with the Nauticam port and zoom gear is a good option. In addition down the road those who want to add the 60mm macro can put it in the same port. Then you can add a true wide angle lens like the 8mm and have three lenses and two ports. Now you can go anywhere and pretty much shoot anything.

You basically can do the same lenses, buy just one of the standard flat ports and the Austrian gear and still end up with a nice line-up. Main thing you loose is the ability to shoot macro with the 12-50mm. NOTE: have not had the Austrian gear in hand so not sure if it can do the electronic zoom. You may be able to but have to choose this function prior to putting the camera in the housing and go with it the whole dive.

Hope that helps

 

[Scubadude_LA]

Makes more sense to me now, thanks. I am assuming that if one wanted to shoot still and video on the same dive the 12-50 would be the lens and the zoom gear would be a must at that point anyway.

 

[PatW]

I used a Canon G11 with an Ike housing initially. I am now using a Nikon D7000 with a Nauticam housing. I think the Canon 60D uses a crop sensor and not a full frame. Actually, using a cropped sensor underwater is not that bad a thing. I seems that you have more options for lenses with cropped sensor lenses. There are 4 lenses that come to mind. The first is the Tokina 10-17 fisheye. This lens is not a great lens but it is a great underwater photography lens. It is super wide. It has some zoom. It works well stopped down at F8. It has a really close focus which means you can use it with a really small dome (4") which means your outfit is more compact. However, you have to get right up on your subject for a good shot and on wary things, that is tough or impossible.

The next lens is the 60 mm macro. It does good for medium to small fish and for close ups. It is not good for true macro because you have to get so very close and most of the time that causes some problem. But it is optically a great lens.

The third lens is the 105 mm macro. Another great lens. Because of its greater "reach", you can do true macro or put on a diopter wet lens and get super macro. It is definitely a more specialized situation.

Finally, you have a tweener lens. The Sigma 17-70. You really should use a big honking 8" dome for best results. So that is clunky. But it is a very versatile lens. You can shoot large fish. You can shoot dive buddies. You can do sort of close up. You can get good photos of the more illusive medium/large fish. Stopped down it performs fine.

The Ike strobes are good.

I would suggest you think of a metal housing. They are more expensive but they fit the camera like a glove. They are more robust. And the controls are very precise.

 

[Scubadude_LA]

Thanks to all for the info, was a big help. Called mjh and ordered the kit components I need to get going.
Let the fun begin