Two Weeks in CR w. Resort Divers

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Driznik

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Just back from two weeks near Playa del Coco in Gunacaste CR (north Pacific Coast). We stayed a week at the Allegro Papagayo and a week at the Fiesta Premier. It would have been an hour or so to drive or a $45 cab ride each way to Rich Coast or Dive Safaris, so I ended up diving with Resort Divers, based out of the Fiesta Premier. The first week they picked me up by boat on the beach at the Allegro - and they did free ground pick ups for some of the other resorts in the area.

I got in 8 days of diving over two weeks, and the DMs I dove with were all great - Pony, Felix and Mike. Drinks, fruit and cookies were provided, and the DMs look after getting your gear ready, getting you weighted up, switching tanks for you between dives, etc. After losing a DM installed weight pouch on a dive in the Bahamas I'm one of those people who likes to prep their own rig, but everybody else seemed to like it. They also store and rinse your gear at the end of each dive day.

Unfortunately I only got to the Catalina Islands once. The first week they had a bunch of trips go, but I booked late, so they were full. Some of those trips had as many as 13-15 divers. For most of the second week we couldn't get enough people to go. They require four two tank divers or two three tank divers to book a Cats trip - which I think is pretty standard for operators in the area. That one day was definitely the highlight of the trip though. We only saw one Manta, but it came back and circled us three times so we got a really good look at it, and some of the pictures turned out pretty good. I couldn't find any operator that was willing to go out to the Bat Islands this time of year though. With that many dives, I ended up seeing most of the major local sites like Tortuga, Argentina and Monkey Head twice.

On a couple of surface intervals we saw Humpback whales, and a pod of dolphins but despite the captains best efforts, we never got close enough to dive or snorkel with them.

In terms of numbers, the biggest group I was in was 8 divers, and the biggest I heard of was the group of 13 going to Cats. For the most part, the average was 3-5 people per group with one DM. Even the group of 8 I went with had two guides.

Resort Divers policy is usually to start the safety stop at around 45min or 1,000 PSI, but they use the buddy system to send divers who hit 1,000 early up without interrupting the dive for everybody else. Looking at my logbook, most of my dives were in the 45-55 min range with plenty of gas left in the tank. One guy I met was cheating the system just by not telling them he was at 1,000 until he got to 500 or so and I don't think anybody noticed or cared enough to talk to him about it.

Visibility was not great. Probably 25' on the best day, and more like 15' on average. On the day it was 25', our guide had a massive grin on his face and told us it was the best visibilty he'd had all year. He was so enthusiastic about it you could only smile and agree that it was great.

Surface water temperature was usually 83-84 degrees, and the coldest I saw it get was 79 below the thermocline.

The fish were abundant - including a lot of white tip reef sharks, some Tuna, King Angel Fish, Moorish Idols, a frogfish and a couple of turtles. It was actually Sargeant Major mating season, so there were huge groups of butterflyfish swarming and eating the eggs while the Sgt. Major tried to chase them off.

I really want to do a Cocos liveaboard, but I'd definitely go back to Guanacaste earlier in the year when you can get to Bats and with a bigger group to make sure we could get more Cats trips in.

If you're going, take your insect repellent and one of those after bite sticks. My wife and I both got bitten pretty good the first week. Everybody else we talk to who have been are surprised by that, but we didn't imagine the bites.
 
Nice report. Thanks for posting. I've been looking for info on diving CR.

A few additional questions:
- What were the typical depths?
- Was there shore diving available?
- Is there decent snorkling for non-diving significant others? Any snorkelers on the boats?
- Is there stuff to do topside when you're not diving?
- How many dives per day could you do if you took advantage of every opportunity?
- If a buddy team has the gas and the skills, can they stay down longer than 55 minutes?
- How does the operator feel about solo diving?

Thanks!
 
Typical depths were in the 60-100 ft range. Deepest I went was 110', shallowest was 25' at a site called the Meadows after a particularly deep dive and a short surface interval. That was the only one I have logged shallower than 60'.

I didn't see any shore diving up where I was. I don't think there are well established drive up shore diving sites like you'd get in Bonaire. The DMs may be able to give you some though. For the most part, the roads I was on in the area didn't really run along the coast. Every operator I found did boat diving. The diving is mostly rocky with coral spread out over them sporadically as opposed to caribbean coral reefs. The typical dive either circled a rock formation or was a drift dive where we ran along a wall or formation.

There don't seem to be any docks or piers in the area, so the operators all seem to have small boats that they use to run you out from the beach to the dive boats anchored off shore.

A couple of days snorkelers did come out. I would say it's not great though. Because of the viz, at a lot of the deeper sites snorkelers wouldn't even be able to see the bottom. Some of the shallower sites they were OK. I saw snorkelers going out to the Catalinas one day, but didn't get a chance to ask them how it was. My wife and I went snorkeling one afternoon at two shallow sites that were close to the Dive Site Argentina, but you wouldn't be able to do the deeper site and the shallower snorkeling sites off the same boat.

Topside - there is a ton to do. CR has a lot of national parks. We did a zip-line tour where they hook you up to pulleys attached to rock climbing harnesses and ride cables between platforms in the rain forest 20-60' off the ground, sky walks and hikes through rain forest and cloud forest. We also did a full day trip to the volcanic heated hot springs at Tabacon and the Arenal volcano. The roads are terrible though - full of huge potholes, not labelled very well and not very well laid out so it takes a long time to get to most of the big topside attractions from where we were near on Golfo Papagayo. If I was going to do two weeks again we would spend four or five days at the end of the trip driving around and staying closer to some of the parks to see them better. I also saw an advertisement for waterfall rapelling down near Monteverde that sounded amazing and freaked my wife right out, but I didn't get a chance to look into it. We didn't do any white water rafting, but I'd like to if we go back. It's supposed to be pretty good.

Most days I think Resort Divers just did two tanks a day, starting in the morning. I did three tanks the one day we went to the Catalinas, but that was it. If you've got a big enough group, I'm sure you can arrange as many tanks as you'd like (based on the Catalina policy I'd guess they need 2-4 divers, but I'd email and ask - Grace in their office was really good about getting back to me with answers to my questions). I was diving air, so my computers No Deco time was usually down to less than 10 min at depth by the time I started to ascend. One couple I dove with was on nitrox and at least once they were down for another 5-10 min after I came up at the 55min mark, so I'm pretty sure the dive operator is easy on it. I don't know if they do deco diving though. In retrospect, the surface intervals seemed a little short. Mostly around 30 min or so.

I didn't ask about solo diving. Our groups were pretty good at staying close enough together so I never saw it applied but during the briefing they outlined the look around for 1 min and then surface rule if you got seperated from the group. Given the potential liability involved I don't think many operators really endorse it.
 
Many thanks, Driznik. This is excellent information. Just the kind of stuff we need for deciding which venues to put on the "must visit and dive" list.
 
We are planning a trip this summer and are looking at the two resorts you mentioned. The Fiesta and Allegro. Was either any better and how so? Is there any other hotel/resort you would go next time instead? Did you book the diving through the resort or Resort Divers? If you booked through the dive op, what were the costs like?

Thanks
 
We looked at the Allegro, Fiesta Premier and Paradisus. Paradisus is a fair bit more expensive, but is supposed to be really nice. If you're thinking about doing some other day trips like Arenal, zip line tours, etc. it's a lot further away than the other resorts we stayed at - the people staying there I talked to had an extra hour drive there and back.

Both resorts were OK, but we liked the Fiesta better. The Fiesta was built as a series of seperate duplexes as opposed to the typical hotel type structure at the Allegro. The Fiesta is also spread out more horizontally, as opposed to the Allegro which is buildtmore into the hillside - which means if you're staying at the top of the resort like we were, there is a lot of steep hill walking. They both have shuttles that run you back and forth, but we found they run on Latin American time.

My wife liked the beach at the Fiesta better, and we both found the food a little better at the Fiesta. It was also possible to get a snack at the Fiesta late, whereas it wasn't possible at the Allegro after the buffet closed around 10:30.

Nightlife / disco at both weren't great, and getting reservations at the a la carte restaurants wasn't easy at either one. I really liked the Mexican a la carte restaurant at the Allegro.

The Allegro did have a smaller, more intimate feel to it though. I talked to some people who stayed at and really liked the Occidental Grand too. From the literature I read at the Allegro, their Allegro chain is supposed to be for people who really like activities booked all day every day, and the Grand is supposed to be more relaxed, more oriented to gourmet dining experience, etc. We stayed at a Grand in the Mayan Riviera last year and our experience seemed consistent with that.

I booked through the dive op directly. The more days of diving you book the less each day of diving is. I booked 5 days of two tank dives for $60-$65 a day I think. Then Bats and Catalina trips are additional on top of that. I upgraded to a three tank Catalina trip for $50 I think. I believe the two tank upgrade was $25-$35. The other operators I talked to in the area - Rich Coast and Dive Safaris were in the same price range. Email Grace at Resort Divers and she'll get back to you with the definite rates. I found she was very friendly and responsive.

If I was going to do the whole thing again I'd also spend a couple of days at the end staying down near Tabacon and Monteverde to better see some of the other national parks. It's a long drive to a lot of them for day trips from the resorts we stayed at.

Hope it helps.

D
 

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