Tuning the S600 [2006, Balance Chamber side] and using a Magnehelic

[Andrew Dawson]

Greetings,

I have been working with a very generous and patient SB member here on how to service my own regs Things have been going awesome...I am doing very well with the 1st stages [all Scubapro and all MK20s]. I am just now beginning to work on some second stages [2001/2006 S600 and 2001 R380].

Tonight I was working on the S600 [2006] and I was not sure how to "tune" the balance chamber...I am talking about page 17 of the "Scubapro S600-S550 Repair Guide" second step from the top, I have Configuration B. I saw the top of the balance chamber [P/N 11600009 or #34 in the S600 schematic from 03/01]...but I was not able to easily turn it...I could pop it out of the piston, balance camber [P/N 11600010 or #36]...but was unable to turn it once installed....any tips? Also, how do you tune it per se?

This reg was recently serviced but the work seemed less than adequate...the first stages were completely dry of lubricant [they said they used Tibolube]. So, I did a disassembly, inspection, relubing [light] of o-rings and threads, and reassembled.

Afterwards, I did a rough tuning on the orifice with an in-line tool [turning 30 degrees past where free flow stops, with the lever down as to not score the seat].

Then, I tried my used Magnehelic gauge...it seemed either way too sensitive or something as I was not able to get a very clear reading [see youtube video I made below]. I am not trying to get the high score on cracking pressure [low value]...more trying to understand the method, steps, process involved so I can build my foundation of knowledge


Thanks in advance for any info

 

[inka]

Hi, i am also interested in this process, I did it once for an AQL regulator.Fisrt, your magnehelic gauge should be mounted vertical, i think that ´s the way their work ( see instructions of your gauge), and you should have an IP gauge in line, so, when, you inhale, look at both gauges at the time, and when the IP drop, read the vaccum on the magnehelic gauge ( not easy ) and repeat operations a few times, so you get the cracking pressure.

 

[Andrew Dawson]

Well,I looked it up and it appears you are right about using these gauges in a vertical orientation Thanks! You can order them for a non-vertical orientation but that is special order.

I do not have an in-line IP gauge...but I will consider one after orientating it vertically...if that does not help in a more stable measurement.

 

[inka]

or just get an IP gauge hooked to your BC hose. and read the cracking effort, just when IP pressure drop.

 

[Andrew Dawson]

I got that part done Cool, I will retest this tonight.

Now, anyone with info on the "tuning" of the balance chamber or initial setup of that side of the S600 after a service?

 

[inka]

Do you have this file ?

 

[Andrew Dawson]

Yes, I do...referenced it in my original post to help explain exactly which step I needed help with

 

[Couv]

It looks as though you have an approximate 1.1-1.2 in. of water cracking effort-that's pretty good. Re the Magnehelic, @inka has both counts right. Sit the instrument straight upright (or calibrate it for horizontal), check that it's reading zero-if not calibrate it. Position the IP gauge where you can monitor both gauges as closely as possible.

@rsingler can talk you through the monkey motion secret adjustment principles. The manual is not really clear as to whether you need the special tool or not, and I don't have one of those models to play with.

 

[Andrew Dawson]

Thanks, couv...funny you mention rsingler

IIRC, I got this from a guy who had it set up for horizontal...but I need to reread those emails. It was close to zero. I will try again tonight with the IP gauge in place and the Mag vertical.

I was thinking it was also at about 1.1-1.2" of H20....not bad for my first go at this, thanks!

 

[ams511]

The manual is not really clear as to whether you need the special tool or not, and I don't have one of those models to play with.

I think earlier versions required a special tool while newer versions use a screwdriver. I wonder if the G-250 HP manual has better info. The adjuster should be the same.

Bryan has a G250 HP manual in his folder. It seems there are 2 versions of the G-250 HP. One version uses a special tool while the other uses a jeweler's screwdriver.