Trip Report Trip Report - Zanzibar (East Coast)

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hedonist222

Contributor
Messages
1,299
Reaction score
844
Location
Dubai, AbuDhabi, United Arab Emirates
# of dives
500 - 999
I made my way to Zanzibar last week. I had intended on going (back) to either the Philippines or Indonesia, but I did not have enough time.
I wanted to go somewhere that only needed a direct flight and little to no commute on arrival. Zanzibar fit this. A direct five hour flight from Dubai to Stone Town.
I'd wanted to go in the past but most dive centers, seemingly, cater to resort divers - what this entails, and there is reason behind this too, that they only do two dives a day. Maybe a night dive. This was my impression from contacting a few dive centers of the years. Apart from resort divers tending not to dive like theres no tomorrow, but the ebb and flow of tides is a massive factor. What this means is if you're able to start the day at the hotel or dive OP beach, the tide gets so low within a few hours that Depending on the dive OP, they may not have easy access to return and therefore must return to mainland by a nearby port. Again, the dive OP willingness to do this and proximity to a port affect this.

Here are two pictures taken a few hours apart from the hotel beach.

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But thanks to @Jaan for passing on a dive guide contact a few years ago - Hasan.
Thank you, Jaan. Offering his contact a few years ago was very helpful. And I'm glad he didn't change numbers :D.
Considering this trip was a last minute affair I probably would not have had enough time to arrange a private guide/boat and would not have made this trip!

Turns out that Hasan worked at ScubaReef for 9 years.
We were in contact by whats app for a few days before arriving.
I explained that I would like to do three or four dives a day.
They have a special vibe and everything is okay or works out.

He was genuinely kind, clear, and helpful. And since I asked him to arrange everything, he was very cognizant in planning and working with me.
From collecting me at the airport, to passing by a local mobile shop to purchase a SIM card to even arranging for diving on arrival day.
Everything was seamless.

Tip: When going to remote places like Zanzibar, its nice to offer to bring things they may need. Not only do they not have access to these things, if and when they eventually are able to procure them, it takes time and costs a lot. He asked and offered to pay for some Go Pro accessories that he needed. He was so happy!

I arrived around seven in the morning, and was already in the car twenty minutes from landing.

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Hassan and Juma, a manager at ScubaReef, picked me up in a relatively nice car (I was expecting Flintstones style cars :)) - A comfortable and modern Toyota Harrier.

Notes on currency: I purchased Tanzanian Shillings from Dubai. 550,000 TZ cost me $300. In Zanzibar, 550,000 TZ is $200. Ouch! I instantly lost a third of my money :).
I understand that while Dubai has some of the best currency exchange rats in the world, the TZ is scarce these days and therefore this premium.
So, perhaps bringing in USD or Euros may be a better option. Caveat emptor!

Hassan suggested I base myself near the Muyuni port - for the reasons mentioned above.
I was aware that I would be going during the low season - African short rains.

Most days looked like this:

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I stayed at the Zanzibar Pearl Hotel. Nice hotel.
Another thought on Zanzibar is that power outages are still common. Power went out about twice a day. Usually back on in five to fifteen minutes but on one occasion it went for an hour before guests asked the hotel to switch to the generator. What this means is, get your power stuff done ASAP. Showering, charging, anything that needs power really. A few portable battery chargers always come in handy.

Most of the island had a 4G internet connection. I found that 4G was faster than hotel wifi, so I bought some more GB (total of 20GB for about $35).

(continuing below because for some reason, scubaboard only lets me upload five images per post)
 
About the diving.
I was based on the east coast near the Mnebma reef- which is apparently the best (general) diving in Zanzibar.

Diving was good. Visibility was 35+ meters every day. Water temperature 27 to 29 Celsius.

Hasan and Juma would pick me up every morning from the hotel, because tides are low in the morning, its a ten minute drive north to Muyuni port.

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Because I had a private guide and private boat, this meant we could go anywhere and not be restricted to the levels of divers at a particular dive OP that day. This also means that we were able to get to popular dive sites before the masses arrived, or dive other dive sites that are bit farther out.

The reef is about a ten to fifteen minute journey. This would be much shorter if theres no swells and the boat was bigger.

Hasan planned out dive days so that I got to see everything while taking into consideration currents and crowds. He'd jump in the water and gauge current and then adapt the dive accordingly.

Zanzibar regulation enforces that any dive boat must have two captains - which is always a good idea.

Most days I did three dives and then called it a day - on all days they were able to drop me off at the hotel beach directly which was nice.
He offered night dives but the thought of having to trek up to the port and maybe have to return to the port just didn't jive with me.
I found it more enjoyable to just relax at the resort, walk up and down the beach. Little to no light pollution.

Also, the sex trade on the beach is hilarious.
Faux masai men getting courted by middle age and older caucasian women...look it up..

There was a nearby food shack on the beach with the freshest seafood. Squid, octopus, lobster - a meal cost around $20.

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Will I return to Zanzibar? Probably not. Its like a premium version of the UAE. I did not get that feeling that I traveled somewhere far.
I did not bring a camera - wanted a short carefree dive experience :D.

Highlights of things we saw:

At Mnemba on the east coast:

Plethora of giant frog fish - different colors (some I recognized as the Indian Ocean Frog Fish)
Ghost pipe fish
Sea moth
Giant star gazers
Giant stone fish
Titan trigger fish
Leef fish in all colors
Anemone in all sizes and colors
Many varieties of rare wrasse fish

On one day, we dived the north west coast (Nungwi). Its a forty minute car ride followed by a fifteen to twenty minutes to most sites.

Surprisingly, the west coast had better weather!

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Visibility was poorly though.

One particular site was nudi heaven!

Another site (Shane's Reef) was supposed to be a macro site. Not much macro that day though. And I got the impression that they use the term "macro" loosely.

On the last day, we spent some time in a national forest and a bit of sight seeing in Stone Town.
I would not suggest buying Tanzanite from Zanzibar. It costs the same there as it does here in the UAE.
Fairly certain that mainland Tanzania will have better prices. A carat of B grade cost $500 while A and A+ cost $650 and $800 respectively.

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I don't think I'll go back to Zanzibar again. I enjoyed my time and was not disappointed because I knew what the diving would look like. But its not better enough than the UAE to warrant a return.
If I want to get on a short dive trip again, I will go to either Pemba or Mafia island. Both are an extra flight from either Zanzibar or Dar Es Salaam.
 
Thanks for the review. It’s fun to read about other people’s dive adventures, even if they’re somewhere you will probably never get to.

Erik

PS Now I have to look up info on the sex trade in Zanzibar.:p
 
But thanks to @Jaan for passing on a dive guide contact a few years ago - Hasan.
Thank you, Jaan. Offering his contact a few years ago was very helpful. And I'm glad he didn't change numbers :D.
For sure. I remember that Hassan was great and a genuinely nice and helpful guy and great guide. Glad to pass along the number to anyone that might be heading to Zanzibar.

Great report and I too had no idea about the beach based ‘spice’ trade. Haha.
 
What was the cost per day for the private boat and guide. Great report, has me thinking

I pondered whether to disclose this - after all, it is his livelihood. But decided that there is more good in sharing this than not.

About $60 per dive.
This included everything.
Transportation to jetty, marine fees, boat, cylinders, snacks and water.

While I did not bargain with him, I got the impression that he arrived at this rate considering it was low season and that I'd be committing to 5 days of diving.

Other nearby dive OPs were charging about $40 per dive - but you would be at the mercy of the dive gods! What sort of group was diving that day...
 
Edited my post to reflect that its per dive and not per day.
You mean you spent 180USD per day/3 dives?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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