Trip Report Tufi PNG Feb-Mar 2019

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dbnewton

Contributor
Messages
1,120
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Location
United States
# of dives
500 - 999
Well run comfortable resort with good food, great diving, interesting local culture, and friendly staff.

The resort and accommodations:
The resort has all the amenities necessary to make guests comfortable. Rooms are spacious with continuous electricity (they have their own generator which 24/7). Rooms are air conditioned with their own bathroom. Always plenty of hot water and a mini fridge that they supply with drinking water.
The meals are well prepared and there is plenty of food. They have a fixed menu that changes daily for lunch and dinner. It never repeated for the 17 days we stayed. Breakfast is continental buffet or you can order extra items for additional fee. Meals are served communally and specific scheduled times but if you are out on an excursion like diving and return late they hold the meal for you, you don't miss it.
All of the rooms are a very short walk to the central gathering area where there is a pool and a bar and the lounge with TV and books (we never saw the TV on but why would you in watch TV while on vacation in paradise?)
There are no paved roads and the local residents tend to either work for the resort, for the government, run tiny business, or subsistence hunter/gather. The locals are friendly and their craft work is extraordinary and very low cost (bargaining is expected, start by offering half of the asking price). We never exchanged any currency with a local as all the locals are willing to bill items to your room. Just negotiate your agreed price and tell the hotel and the hotel pays the local and bills you on checkout. We never felt unsafe or unwelcome and even if you buy at full retail everything is a bargain.
In addition to the diving (more below) we also tried: fishing, trips to local villages, waterfalls, & beaches. All were fun and relaxing. Good way to kill that no fly day at the end or take a break in the middle. Shop for crafts like wood masks and clubs, model canoes in the local style, woven mats and hangings, shoulder bags, hats, and shell crafts. They are all hand made locally and prices are quite reasonable.
G0221733.JPG G0061619.JPG

Logistics:
Tufi is quite remote, access is only via small airplane from Port Moresby via PNG Airline. We had zero issues with the flights but we did observe that the PNG flight to/from Tufi is delayed or cancelled more often than not. Travelers might want to consider an overnight in Port Moresby as buffer. Flights only Monday morning or Wednesday and Friday afternoon. Port Moresby is the capital and served by many international carriers. The resort is on a volcanic fjord sitting high on the bank overlooking the ocean on one side and the fjord on the other. Thus there is a significant hill to/from the waterfront where the dive shop (more below on diving) and water sports are. They run a couple of range rovers on demand to take you up/down the hill or if you want exercise you can walk it yourself. Power is 240V 50Hz with Australian style plugs.

IMG_20190222_160927071_HDR.jpg IMG_20190225_132850797.jpg

Weather:
There are three "seasons" (it's the tropics so there are no true seasons): rainy (January to mid May), windy (late May thru August), calm and dry (Sept to December). We were there in Feb and March. It did rain but almost exclusively at night. We only had rain one day during the day, yet at night it almost always rained (between midnight and 6 AM). We never got rained out of anything. There were one or two days when we could not get out to the outer reefs due to wind (it is open ocean and 5-15 miles out). But on those days we did still dive in the fjord and it is spectacular. We were told that the period from Sept to end of December is best but our experience with the rainy season was also great.

The Diving:
In a word spectacular. There is a variety of diving including wall, slope, muck, reef top, as well as a few WWII wrecks. The outer reefs rise to the surface or a couple meters below. They are typically wall or slope dives. There is little or no current. The coral is all in very good condition (not broken up by waves or divers). The fish life is abundant albeit less so than Raja Ampat in Indonesia. We saw large predators like Barracuda, Tuna, Sharks, Mackerel on most dives as well as the normal array of reef fish both small and large. The reef is well suited to macro photography as well, tiny nudibranch, egg sacks, flatworms,... There is absolutely zero trash either floating or on the reefs, they are pristine. One unique sight here is the white hammerhead shark. It is found here and one other place in the world (we were told so no reference).
The water was warm 30C/86F and very clear (greater than 30m/100' vis most reefs). They typically tie to a mooring on the reef and divers swim but they did some dives as drift dives even though there was no real current to drift on, just slowly kick along the wall. They limit dives to around 60 minutes but depending on the depth it is quite easy to exceed NDL on one dive, so watch your meter. They do NOT have nitrox, only air. They use aluminum 80 (approx). Entry is either giant stride or backward roll depending on the boat used. They were running two boats while we were there but there are more boats that could be deployed if needed. Since this is the only dive operation anywhere within at least 50 miles there is never a crowd on the reef. They can send boats to different reefs to avoid crowding. Typically they send the boats on two tank dives in the morning returning for lunch at the resort. If requested they can do three tank dives with a lunch for SI between dives 2 and 3. There is no rinse tank on the boats but they do rinse your gear at the dock. There is no camera room at the dive center, so no compressed air and no charging stations. There is a camera rinse tank.
The diving in the fjord is unique. There is very little wave or current action and thus the coral and fans and sponges that are too fragile to survive in open ocean, thrive here. The fjord is deep (greater than 45m/150'). Visibility in the fjord is far lower (10m/33')(note the difference in the pictures labeled fiord) and the fish are typically smaller (no large tuna, mackerel, sharks,..). I am not a muck diver but there are stretches of muck diver heaven between the coral banks.
We dove two wrecks, a PT boat and a P38 lightning. The PT boat is broken up since they were plywood and it burned to the waterline. The P38 is intact and in very good condition but covered in coral and sponges as you would expect for 75 years underwater. There are also a B25, and a B17 that we did not dive.
Outer Reef Examples: G0052707.JPG Tufi Fiord 18 Nudibranch.JPG G0059646.JPGSpotted Grouper 2.jpg
Fjord Examples: Tufi Fiord 27 Crocodile Fish.JPG Tufi Fiord 05.JPG
Since the top of the reefs are so shallow it is quite possible to bring snorkelers along on the diving trips. The snorkelers can hover above the reef and enjoy the snorkel while the divers below enjoy the deeper parts of the reef. They welcome snorkelers and provide guides as needed.
 
Glad to see your report, especially originating from the U.S., as will be more clear from my follow up questions. I hope to someday be blessed with retirement and score one big 'hurrah' dive trip...to Indonesia. The big 2 destinations there spoken of and talked up the most appear to be Raja Amat and close runner up Komodo, judging from what I read on the forum.

But what I've read of Papua, New Guinea has typically been glowing, even claimed in another thread be somebody to be better, IIRC, so I'm curious as to why I don't see PNG trip reports more often, or PNG recommended as a dive destination more often.

Roughly how long, how many flights and how long (hours) continuously were the flights getting there? Same coming back? While I'm working, my greatest barrier would be time. In retirement, money. In a theoretical transitional sweet spot, it'd be the grueling ordeal of extended air travel.

I'm guessing organizing all this would be a complicated hassle; did you do it yourself, or use a travel agent?

If I went through all that to get there, I'd aim for a live-aboard to dive as much as I could. What made you pick the resort route? Would that be your preference again?

Richard.
 
Glad to see your report, especially originating from the U.S., as will be more clear from my follow up questions. I hope to someday be blessed with retirement and score one big 'hurrah' dive trip...to Indonesia. The big 2 destinations there spoken of and talked up the most appear to be Raja Amat and close runner up Komodo, judging from what I read on the forum.

But what I've read of Papua, New Guinea has typically been glowing, even claimed in another thread be somebody to be better, IIRC, so I'm curious as to why I don't see PNG trip reports more often, or PNG recommended as a dive destination more often.

Roughly how long, how many flights and how long (hours) continuously were the flights getting there? Same coming back? While I'm working, my greatest barrier would be time. In retirement, money. In a theoretical transitional sweet spot, it'd be the grueling ordeal of extended air travel.

I'm guessing organizing all this would be a complicated hassle; did you do it yourself, or use a travel agent?

If I went through all that to get there, I'd aim for a live-aboard to dive as much as I could. What made you pick the resort route? Would that be your preference again?

Richard.
There is a great article on PNG diving in the current issue of DAN's Dive Alert magazine, if you haven't seen it yet. Definitely high on my bucket list!
 
Glad to see your report, especially originating from the U.S., as will be more clear from my follow up questions. I hope to someday be blessed with retirement and score one big 'hurrah' dive trip...to Indonesia. The big 2 destinations there spoken of and talked up the most appear to be Raja Amat and close runner up Komodo, judging from what I read on the forum.

But what I've read of Papua, New Guinea has typically been glowing, even claimed in another thread be somebody to be better, IIRC, so I'm curious as to why I don't see PNG trip reports more often, or PNG recommended as a dive destination more often.

Roughly how long, how many flights and how long (hours) continuously were the flights getting there? Same coming back? While I'm working, my greatest barrier would be time. In retirement, money. In a theoretical transitional sweet spot, it'd be the grueling ordeal of extended air travel.

I'm guessing organizing all this would be a complicated hassle; did you do it yourself, or use a travel agent?

If I went through all that to get there, I'd aim for a live-aboard to dive as much as I could. What made you pick the resort route? Would that be your preference again?

Richard.

Resort chosen over live aboard be sure we had one non diver who would be bored on live aboard.

I arranged all travel myself to save cost. A bit of risk there because delay on one leg could ripple through and other legs on other bookings would be my problem not carrier's.

Four flights from Newark through LA, Brisbane, port Moresby to Tufi. Total flight time about 23 hours. Layovers from 1 to 26 hours (26 by design). 1 hour in Brisbane is too short unless your bags check through, Quantas on both sides allowed me to do the short layover.

We have also done Raja Ampat. Both PNG and RA are spectacular and I'll refuse to rate one over the other but I put both better than any Caribbean location.
 
There is a great article on PNG diving in the current issue of DAN's Dive Alert magazine, if you haven't seen it yet.

Thanks for the reminder; I think I noticed it awhile back and forgot about it. I enjoy Dive Alert Magazine, though trip reports sometimes feel a bit too much like a 'first person shooter' or 'you are there' romantic approach, and I'm too practical/unromantic in mindset for that. I want travel times, costs, pro./con. breakdowns vs. alternatives, etc...

Noticed Undercurrent's Oct. 2018 issue had an article on Pirates of Papua New Guinea for subscribers. Sounds kind'a 'Wild West' out that way.

Googling turned up The Complete Guide to Diving Papua New Guinea at Indopacific Images Underwater Images, so I might have to check that out. Also found an old Winter 2012 Alert Diver article - Sketches of Papua New Guinea by Michele Westmoreland. And here's the 2019 Winter Q1 article The Far Reaches: Papua New Guinea by Alison Sallmon.

Richard.
 
Oh, big practical question. In terms of the flights there and back, airports stopped at for transfers, and transport and the resort on the island...how much of an issue is it when someone only speaks English?

In the Caribbean, as long as one sticks to fairly touristy areas, wide-spread English is practically a given. While English is probably about as close to an 'international language' as exists today, we are talking roughly the other side of the world. Ya not in Kansas anymore, Toto...

Richard.
 
We actually speak English in Australia, although the version spoken in Brisbane is a bit different :). English is also the national language of PNG, well, one of them. English is spoken by everyone you would likely meet at an airport, hotel or restaurant etc in PNG.
 
You have zero touristic areas, thanks to the footsteps of missionaries people in service industries of which there are very few and they will all speak English. Raja caters to international dive tourism market very well so you will get your pampering and deal breakers ie aircon and huge choice of LOBs and land based ops to suit your must haves where you are far more limited in options in PNG. Indonesia is a far more developed and less isolated nation than PNG so logistics as in multiple flights to multiple destinations per day, food, souvenirs, shopping, cultural tours and sightseeing are far more suited to the "vacation" minded than the "adventure" minded if that makes sense.
I do, and quite a few others agree the diving surpasses RA and IMO the number of divers in RA must be at least 100 to 1 in PNG which suits me as I am not a "social" diver who enjoys the company of 50 others and a party post dive.
PNG is for want of a better word 20,000 more years "Tribal" than Indonesia. Do a bit of a search on Raskol gangs in PNG. This aspect of PNG puts a lot of people off. I organised a trip to Alotoa for a lady I met on a LOB in Komodo and her opinion was the whole vibe was scary and on edge on land, brilliant underwater. She does not plan on returning even though she was on a LOB. Conversely I find the Phillipines terrifying above the surface for different reasons - too many people, hawkers, too many tours, restaurants, clubs. I enjoy subsurface but hate the crowds of divers. Everyone is different.
It's not a destination for everyone, we all have our own idea of nirvana. PNG is not Indonesia btw :wink: it's an independent nation.
 
PNG is not Indonesia btw :wink: it's an independent nation.

Been looking at the maps a bit, and this struck me. So, the island of New Guinea is divided very roughly 50/50, so the west half (West Papua or Western New Guinea) is part of Indonesia (which is a nation, not just a geographic area), and the east half is Papua, New Guinea, an independent state (used Wikipedia to pull it together for me). So, one could dive PNG without technically diving Indonesia. Oooooooookayyyyyy...

Raja caters to international dive tourism market very well so you will get your pampering and deal breakers ie aircon and huge choice of LOBs and land based ops to suit your must haves where you are far more limited in options in PNG.

Now that's a scary thought; is air conditioning often available on PNG live-aboards? AC is a big deal to me. I'm not big on non-diving things; if I went to Raja Ampat or Komodo, I wouldn't likely to taking a few days to roam Bali as I understand some would. I'd aim to fly in, do a live-aboard, fly back. Definitely want to see Komodo dragons in the wild if I'm visiting Komodo or Rinca, but otherwise, mainly after diving.

Indonesia is a far more developed and less isolated nation than PNG so logistics as in multiple flights to multiple destinations per day...

Not sure I understand. Are you talking about needing to use air travel if you want to explore a larger area, or are you saying it takes more flights to reach PNG than, say, Raja Ampat or Komodo, and if so, are we talking maybe one more puddle jumper or is it a big extra hassle?

Thanks for the added info., Wingy. Good to know.

Richard.
 
Been looking at the maps a bit, and this struck me. So, the island of New Guinea is divided very roughly 50/50, so the west half (West Papua or Western New Guinea) is part of Indonesia (which is a nation, not just a geographic area), and the east half is Papua, New Guinea, an independent state (used Wikipedia to pull it together for me). So, one could dive PNG without technically diving Indonesia. Oooooooookayyyyyy...



Now that's a scary thought; is air conditioning often available on PNG live-aboards? AC is a big deal to me. I'm not big on non-diving things; if I went to Raja Ampat or Komodo, I wouldn't likely to taking a few days to roam Bali as I understand some would. I'd aim to fly in, do a live-aboard, fly back. Definitely want to see Komodo dragons in the wild if I'm visiting Komodo or Rinca, but otherwise, mainly after diving.



Not sure I understand. Are you talking about needing to use air travel if you want to explore a larger area, or are you saying it takes more flights to reach PNG than, say, Raja Ampat or Komodo, and if so, are we talking maybe one more puddle jumper or is it a big extra hassle?

Thanks for the added info., Wingy. Good to know.

Richard.

You are beyond the point where answers can be generalized to whole countries. I have been to Raja and PNG, nice resorts in both cases. It happened that the one in Raja had no AC but in PNG they did. There are other resorts where that reverses.

Both were equally hard to get to: 4 planes and a long boat ride vs 4 planes.

But it is true that where we were in PNG had much much much less trash on the water or on the shore or on the reef. There was none. Raja, even though remote, was still close enough to a large city that there was considerable trash on the water and reef.

Also there were far more dive operations in Raja than PNG. One in PNG vs 6-8 in the area of Raja we were in.

Keep in mind also that while PNG and far eastern Indonesia share an island the location we stayed were still 1400 miles apart.

I maintain that both locations are amoung the world's best. But to say one is better is too general and varies depending on personal taste/interest.
 
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