Trip report: Panama Divers, Portobelo, Panama

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mastakebob

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Trip report for 3 days of diving with Panama Divers in Portobelo, Panama from 11 Sept through 14 Sept 2009. Went solo as I was in Panama on business. Diving Panama with Panama Divers
Overall impression: Very relaxing environment, excellent staff, fair to good diving

Panama Divers is located about 3 miles outside of Portobelo on the Caribbean coast of Panama, about 1 hour away from Panama City. They will provide round trip shuttle service between the City (airport/hotel/whatever) and their location for $40. Panama Divers is owned by an American named Clay Jorgensen (sp?) but seems to be mostly operated by Ray, a really friendly native Panamanian who lived in the states for a while.
The actual dive 'lodge' is an old spanish villa type of house that is called the Octopus Garden. Has about 10-12 rooms, each holding between one and four beds. Because I arrived friday morning before everyone else, I got one of the better single rooms with a pretty nice view overlooking the water. Each room has its own bathroom (hot and cold water, shower) and AC (gets downright chilly with the AC on). The villa has a large patio extending over the water as well as a pretty well stocked bar on the second floor. The house is right on the water so when you sit on the patio/second floor deck, you get a very postcard-ish view of the caribbean. Rooms are $60/night for one person, I think each additional person in a room is $10. They have a kitchen on site to with a pretty good menu. Dinners are between $8-12, breakfasts ~$5.
Note that the house is pretty remote. Not walking distance to any place of interest, so you should expect to enterain yourself during your non-diving times.
Onto the diving. September is during the rainy season in panama, so visibility wasn't as good as it could have been. Probably maxed at 35', went down to 15-20' the morning after a pretty good storm. Water is bathwater warm. Went down to 100' for my AOW deep dive in shorts and a rashguard and never felt chilled. even on a moving boat in the rain, never felt cold. Unfortunately, the diving sights didn't wow me. Your basic caribbean dive. Coral (which was pretty silted over in places) with your generic caribbean fish. Not any big fish either. I saw more and bigger fish while snorkeling in Barbados. Saw a good number of lobsters on my night dive. Dives were $50/each.
The dive crew was great. Only half of them spoke English, but I never once doubted that they all knew exactly what they were doing. Actually did my navigation dive with a guy who spoke next to no english, and I speak next to no spanish. made for fun times.
They have 2 boats, one smaller, one larger. The smaller one can only hold a few divers equipment (like 4 max), but the larger one can hold about 20 tanks or so.

So in review:
Pros:
Easy to get to
Relatively cheap
Nice accomodations/living environment
Really friendly staff/crew
free wifi

Cons:
Not the most exciting diving the world
Not a whole lot to do when you're not diving
Buying food and booze and diving and accomodations from the same place adds up quickly

Would I go back? Yea, if i was already in Panama and had limited vacation time. If you have more vacation time than I did, would suggest hitting up Bocas del Toro or Coiba (both of which are a 5 hour drive out of the city)
 
Thanks for the Report. I have been looking into Panama and still have it on my list.
 
The best diving for big fishes and good viz - especially for UW Photographers- in Panama is Isla Coiba on the pacific side, just in front of Santa Catalina and Santiago.
You can reach Isla Coiba by a one hour ride from Santa Catalina, diving with Scuba Coiba or Coiba Dive Center.
I always dove with Glen and July from Coiba Dive Center and felt always safe and confortable with them.
Santa Catalina is quite remote, small and the accomodations are from very basic to 3 star so
prepare to entertain your self and reduce your needs.
Last time we stayed in Sol y Mar and it was nice, clean and friendly.

From Panama City you can take a regional flight to Santiago, and from there it's about 1 1/2 hour by car to Santa Catalina.

Chris Karrer
 
Not really great, but there are some other informations from my trips to Coiba:
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/central-america/287852-panama-diving.html
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/central-america/212634-coiba-island-know-before-you-go.html
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/central-america/262882-diving-panama.html
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/central-america/264804-boca-brava-panama.html
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/central-america/265030-diving-panama.html

Best time to go would be between Xmas and May with a tendency to February, March and April.
But shoot a email to Glen and Judy Coiba Dive Center -  click the diver below for more information
and they will answere all you questions quite better than me.
A special mention would be the "camping" - trip to the outside and the small islands around with overnighting on the ranger station,
served by the prisoners of the "prison island" Isla Coiba.
I am still dreaming to realize that, it must be one of the best but "hardest" dives in the central pacific.

Best regards

Chris Karrer
 
Great report :yelclap: Went do you think will be a good time of year to visit Panama?

For diving Bocas del Toro, I always advise my diving friends and family to come in September and October. While we dive all year round, in September and October the seas on the outside reefs (on the windward sides of Bastimentos Island and the Kusapin Peninsula) flatten out and we gain access to some outstanding dive sites, including Tiger Rock, Dolphin Rock, and Polo Beach. Diving on the leeward side of the islands is easy Caribbean diving--shallow reefs, no current, and flat seas (visibility averages about 40 feet). diving on the outside windward sites offers better viz, bigger fish, and some amazing geological formations (caverns, swim throughs, ravines, etc.).

I don't recommend diving in November in Bocas, as it rains a lot and viz is greatly affected. This past February was also a washout, although locals have said that they had never seen that much rain during the month of February and that this was an isolated incident.
 
hey cj,

whats the weather/ viz like there lately....i.e. now?

there's a chance i may get there in 2 wks....what do you think?
 
hey cj,

whats the weather/ viz like there lately....i.e. now?



there's a chance i may get there in 2 wks....what do you think?

It has been awesome for the last week. Sunny days and occasional showers at night. Our divers saw mantas on one of the inside reefs today (very unusual).
 
I don't recommend diving in November in Bocas, as it rains a lot and viz is greatly affected.

I've seen your posts quite a bit and recently sent an EM to your dive shop. Thanks for the good info...

We were planning on coming to Bocas November 19th to dive. We travel each year during Thanksgiving (US) week and have had success in the Caribbean, but we try to select our destinations wisely.

Can you expand on your quote and help us learn more about diving that time of year. How bad is viz?

Dave
 
mastakebob, Do you recall on your dives out of portobelo if you saw any big shells- live?- like Triton Trumpets or large conchs?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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