Trip Report: NAD Dive Resort on Lembeh Island/ Part 1: Diving

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Warmwater Wank

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Location
Middle of Oregon
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Here are some Lembeh thoughts from a March 2012 trip. We stayed at NAD Resort on Lembeh Island for 2 weeks, never having been to Lembeh before. (Prior Indonesian experience: a couple dive trips to Bali and one to Raja Ampat.) So, chock full of personal opinion, here is what passes for my Lembeh trip report.​

Lembeh Lament?​
Don’t go to Lembeh because it is on someone else’s list. Do your own homework, think about what you are getting into. I say this because I’ve read some reports where people would “NEVER go back”, thought it a BIG waste of dive time or even worse, it was “BORING”. And they felt this way because…I don’t know. They didn’t do their homework? The viz can be marginal, maybe worse, on some dives (though it can also be decent, 30-40’ or maybe better in a few spots). The critters can be tiny (many of them) and sometimes they are infrequent.

There were times on some dives I wondered about the wisdom of diving Lembeh. 10 minutes of staring at what seemed like the bottom of some bleak, dead stateside reservoir of fresh water with little but muck to see in seriously diminished viz. What’s so great about Lembeh though is how instantly that all changes when your guide finds a real cool treasure like a Mimic or Blue Ring Octopus or a Flamboyant Cuttlefish or…maybe something you really aren’t sure of! It’s different diving than I had done (Beautiful corals, big schools of fish, decent visibility etc.) but it certainly offers it’s own rewards. With a few days of paying attention it’s amazing how much more you start to see.


The Diving​
We dove 82F/28C water in rash-guards and never felt cold. The dive ops manager, Serge, dove a 7mm w/ built in hood and only occasionally got cold. (So judge accordingly.) March is nearing the end of the wet season and there was some rain, mostly at night. This didn’t affect the diving, plenty of sites where runoff is not a problem. Air temps were pleasant, in the 80’s range w/out being obnoxiously muggy. Mossies were not bad at all, hardly used any repellant. I was told that other times of the year colder water comes in, bringing more uw critter action w/ the influx of nutrients. Somehow the tradeoff for colder water and the need for wetsuits is not in my nature though.

Currents were usually not a problem, though you occasionally were in some they were nothing serious. The viz was probably typical for the area. Some dives it’s pretty dismal, often in layers though, so maybe it would be a bit clearer on a sandy bottom than the middle depths you went through. Occasionally the bottom was such that almost any activity nearby sent clouds of crud up into the water. It was easy to lose sight of folks in those situations so you should definitely feel comfortable in low viz conditions. Pay attention, listen to the briefings, have a plan w/ your dive buddy on what to do if you are separated etc. I don’t mean to harp on viz because really, after a while, you didn’t pay it all that much attention.
Dive Boats and Schedule​
Two dive boats were available, depending on the number of divers. You never have more than 4 people per guide and when possible, you’ll have the same guide your whole stay. (Three of us shared a guide, they never wedged anyone else in.) Most dives were 5-15 boat minutes away, some a bit more. Bottom time was generous, 70 minutes was typical. It was usually a bit shorter later in the day but no one was putting a stopwatch on you, another 10 or 15 minutes was never a problem.

The schedule was a two tank dive in the morning, back for lunch. A 2:30pm boat dive then an evening dive if desired (or shore diving on your own). Dinner when folks got in, no later than 8pm. I dove nitrox and saw some very consistent O2 numbers around 31% or32%, tank pressure was always 3K psi or better.

Good briefings, always a diagram and discussion of landmarks, directions, conditions. Our guide (Jonnie) was great. Good English, very solid guide abilities, funny and upbeat. Onshore you could most easily find him near the resort library looking at a fish or critter ID book. You can talk to your guide, let them know what your interests are, what sort of diving you want to do. Although there may be 2 or even 3 other groups on a boat they were always good at delivering some varied dives.

Take this as a heads up though. Have enough dive experience to be comfortable taking care of yourself. Dive guides in Lembeh, as a rule, are not there to serve as DM’s or safety managers. As always, you are responsible for your own safe diving, even more so if you have been lulled into other boat diving approaches where “someone else” seemed to always be watching out for you. The guides are there for their specialized knowledge of the waters and what they hold, they are not there as safety monitors. Sure, they care about your obvious safety but don’t be surprised when they swim off and disappear into the muck. They’ll be back, usually excitedly with some new wonder to show you. // End Part 1, Resort review in Part 2 // ww

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Trip Report: NAD Dive Resort on Lembeh Island/ Part 2:Resort

NAD sunrise sm 10x3.jpg Bungalow at NAD 4x6.jpg NAD bungalow bed 4x6.jpg NAD camera room sm 4x6.jpgNAD long table 4x6.jpg NAD arrival view 12x4.jpg NAD am branch overhang 12x5  sm copy.jpg

The Resort​
Well, NAD exceeded expectations—what can I say (except I did finally fins out from Simon & Serge why it's called NAD). Simon and Zee, the owners for the last almost 2 years, take an exceptional approach to their resort. It’s clean, well maintained, nicely set up and best of all, everyone is pleasant. Since it’s come up in other posts I’d like to point out a few things I felt were a different sort of “business model” compared to some Westerner owned resorts or liveaboards.

First, there wasn’t much hierarchy. Simon was likely to be the muddiest of anyone, digging or doing grounds-keeping. Someone could be dive guiding one day and cleaning up around the place the next day. The other thing was the concern for locals to have actual lives. The kitchen staff had 2 shifts. No one had to pull a dawn to dinner cleanup shift. One crew did breakfast then they overlapped at lunch with the dinner gang. Our guide changed some days off to stay diving with us, then had two days off to be home in his nearby village. Staff turnover is very low here for good reason.

The resort is setup to let you dive, take photographs or do video. There is a good size camera room, plenty of bench space and electric outlets. A/C in the computer room w/ two available computers and WIFI. We stayed in a bungalow w/ a/c, hot water etc. Nice, lot’s of wood and bamboo, great view. (There are 10 standard rooms, 4 bungalows.) Best part may have been the food. Great meals, nicely presented and well cooked. Local veggies with taste! All meals were served buffet style and everyone eats at a long table. Nice way to meet and chat with folks. A very interesting mix of folks. We were the only Americans there during our two week stay. That was a bit of a surprise but then it is a long haul to Lembeh.

Getting There Is None of the Fun​
It’s not a short hop to get there. We flew out of SFO on China Air (who I like more every time I fly with them) to Taipei. (13hr.+). 3hr layover, 4 hour flight to Jakarta. Stayed overnight at the FM7 Hotel, very near the airport. Unless you plan to linger in Jakarta don’t stay far from the airport, traffic is mega. FM7 is quite adequate, ran about $80. A night w/ a large buffet breakfast included. Took a 5am Lion Air flight next morning to Manado, picked up at Manado airport by resort driver. Drove a bit over an hour to Bitung on the west side of N. Sulawesi, then a boat across Lembeh Strait to NAD (15 minutes). Going back was pretty much the reverse, it just seemed a lot longer. Oh, it was the consensus of our small group that for Indo domestic flights, at least on the Jakarta/Manado run, you are much more comfortable on Garuda than on Lion Air. We flew both and there was an obvious difference for seats, space and service.

Would I Go Back? Well duh—Yeah! The sense of discovery and the uniqueness of what you are seeing is a big draw and reason enough to want to go back. It’s a different sort of diving that offers a unique window into one of nature’s more unique sea nurseries. If you think muck diving would interest you then obviously Lembeh needs to be on your radar screen. And if you dive Lembeh, NAD gets my solid endorsement (which of course is just my opinion...:eyebrow: ). // ww


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Q--Yep, all boat. (Well, I did sneak in a couple shore dives at dusk.) I mostly settled for 3 dives a day but a 4th night dive was always an easy option to arrange. // ww
 
WW,
Nice detail reports and great shots, seem almost all lembeh critters. Everytime I see stargazer always remind me to somebody, don't worry not you.
We like lembeh too, been there 3x but no luck for us to stay in NAD - they always fully booked.
Where you got the BRO? Did you find Rhinophia ?
 
Wisnu, saw Blue Rings on two different days, I did poorly keeping track of divesites though. No Rhinophias. They did mention they had been seeing fewer Rhinopias but I wasn't clear if this was just seasonal or that their numbers were really off. Really wanted to see some too. // ww
 

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