Trip Report : Komodo LOB October 2006

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IceIce

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Messages
298
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2
Location
Asia
# of dives
200 - 499
P.S : I edit some of the portions to make the report shorter. :)


1st - 2nd day

We took SQ from Singapore to Bali, stayed overnight, and boarding GT Air to Labuan Bajo, Flores Island the next day. From airport we went directly to the seaport to board MV Tarata.

First dive at Sebayur was not really good. There wasn't much sea life and the coral looked damaged, but it was the check out dive.
The night dive was better. We started to see more things as we embarked to the real sea. Cute little tiny polka dot crab, huge lobster, Spanish dancer, Octopus, Moray Eels ridden by a crab, Imperial Shrimp, few types of Nudibranch.


3rd day

When we jumped, we were greeted by the excellent visibility. The corals were healthy and everything looked good and colorful. The current was gradually stronger and soon, we were doing superman dive.

Second dive, we reached Batu Bolong or Current city.
It was the first dive we saw Manta Ray. It was a huge Black Manta, we were enjoying the beautiful sign of colorful fish and coral, saw school of big fish too, Jacks/big eye trevally consisted of Giant Trevally, Black Trevally, Blue fin and common silver trevally, various type of fusiliers in school when we heard teng kleneng kleneng sound from Sebastian tank banger. We looked to the right and I saw the Manta passed by. It was a glorious sight with the most posh fish in the sea. It mingled with us but maintained the distance for a while and then disappeared to the blue. We continued the dive and did our safety stop and in between other fish including giant barracuda. Other than that, we saw Napoleon Wrasse again, Marbled Grouper, Magpie Sweetlips, Yellow Sweetlips, Mackarel. There were so many big fish!

On the third dive we only managed to enjoy first few minutes of the dive. We found a big crocodile fish and took picture for a while and then, the current started to pick up.
It was quite a hellish dive! We had to fight the current along the dive. Sometimes we found sheltered rock and rest for a while, but most of the dive we had to use the reef hooks to relieve our fingertip. Even the fish and corals around us were moving like crazy. We were exhausted.
We did the night dive in Pantai Merah, sinking down, we were greeted by barramundi cod, something we don’t often see and a white frogfish. It was a rewarding night dive, we also saw a weird big triangle coral as big as head walking around, but we had no idea what drove it around, maybe a gigantic hermit crab? We saw spiky cuttlefish and spiky super mini cuttlefish which was only the size of rice! I found a ugly big nudibranch which is different with other type of nudi, instead of soft bodied, that one was hard. I’ve never seen it somewhere else. We also saw a lot of spiky crab, spiky shrimp. As we were heading North, the water temperature had become colder, I clocked 24 Celcius degree on this night dive.


4th day

Before the first dive, we went to Pulau Komodo for the Komodo Dragon land tour. This is almost the only place where Komodo Dragon survive in their natural habitat.

From the jetty, we passed by small stalls, actually only consisted off tables selling Komodo dragon’s souvenir. After that, we were briefed by the Park Ranger, two rangers would guide us, one in front and one in back, we were reunited with the other six. The rangers had stick with two branches at the end; it didn’t look like it capable of stopping Komodo if they decide to attack though. Although the dragons look slow and lazy, they can run faster than a dog and they can swim across island. We saw the baby Komodo hiding on the tree; they have to do that to survive from their elder because Komodo are cannibals.

Along the way, we also saw birds, spiders, cicada, there was a pair of tourist who came only to enjoy bird sighting. We also saw very huge male deer and wild boar.
The Ranger brought us to the small hill and from there, we had very nice view of the sea.
We only saw few Komodo along the way. They were walking through the bushed and shrub; one was checking us immediately after we entered the forest because it smelt our presence.

At the end of the walk, we took a rest and enjoyed very nice coca cola, then we had to walk back to the boat on those floating big hollow plastic, made specially for the walkway. We squeezed everybody in the dingy, couldn’t wait to get off the island and got down to the water because of the very very hot weather. We reached the big boat, and after some rest we prepared for the first dive.
We visited Pantai Merah again for the first dive, the frog fish had moved, we saw a lot of nudibranch and of course, a lot of fish.

The temperature dropped down to 23 degree underwater.

After the first dive, we started moving to Padar Island, second dive was done there, with Pillarsteen as the dive point. The dive was special, although the sun was shining strong on the surface, below there was dark, murky and spooky and mysterious. It felt almost surreal. Although the darkness and limited visibility made us enjoy less, it gave the feeling like we were doing dusk dive or dawn dive.

This was also the dive while I encountered some nasty experience with the current. We were enjoying the wall when suddenly I felt some current started to push me up. It begun with slow but soon built up to faster pace, I saw myself being drifted up from my group, the current swept harder and my mask was filled with water. I wasn’t able to see and I knew the current kept trying to push me to the surface and to the rock. I only could think of few possibilities, I could be carried up to the surface and risked decompression sickness , or carried to another swell or current and hit something dangerous; animal, rock or boat.
It was only slightly more than five meters away from the surface, so I grabbed hard on the rock to prevent me shooting up to the surface. It was hard, the current was ripping, lucky, I managed to find a good grip and positioned myself as close as possible to the wall to minimize the effect of the current, then with another hand to make sure my regulator and mask was in place, and then tried to clear away the water from the mask. When I was able to see, the vertical up current was not as strong, I let go the grip and finned head down to the deeper and caught up with my friends, who were also holding on something from the additional horizontal current.

The current subsidized after few minutes, so I was able to clear up my whole mask and thanked the one upstairs to let me got away from the danger. It was really a challenging dive.
It’s spooky but somehow, there was something unexplainable that made me like the dive, minus the crazy current incident.
From the deep, We saw shadow of big fish around, including one mysterious very huge Giant Grouper floating slowly above us.
We were secretly grateful that it was swimming quite a distance from us. The rest of the dive we also faced swinging current. Swing to the right, swing to the left, again, and again, together with those fish around us.

The story still continues for this dive. We were crowding around one rock where we found a dozen yellow spiky nudibranch. We were excited, because it’s quite difficult to find so many nudibranch gather naturally in one spot. We took pictures, and when we looked around, we realized, the whole slope, the whole landscape was full of the same type of nudibranch. Each of them was only few centimeters apart. It was amazing nudibranch rain, something we had never seen. We passed by tons and tons of them, and when the dive was coming to the end, we did our safety stop in the blue.

During our surface interval, we often saw Komodo dragons cruising on the beach and monkeys also. Some sailing boat were parked nearby purposely to send their tourists when they saw the dragons. We saw few tourists walking on the beach where there were two small dragons. When one of the dragon approached them, all of them jumped back to the boat. Ha ha chicken..

Sunset dive, we did backroll and my mask fell down because of it slipped from the hood. We had to wait for the dingy to bring us my spare mask while others descended first. We followed the bubble trace, and jumped down. I could see three bubble rows at first, so we descended. When we were descending, we no longer saw bubbles, what we saw was a dark volume of water and eyes, thousands of eyes surround us. We were in the middle of very big school of big eyes trevally. It was spooky; we tried to look once more, to adjust our eyes to the darkness, no bubbles. We communicated underwater and decided to surface, when we looked at the computer, we were on eighteen-meter depth. It was surprising because we were only descending a bit from the surface when we looked for the bubble. Seemed like there was a slight down current pushing us down too. We surfaced and the dingy was still around. He informed us that our friends were not in the same point anymore. We climbed back to the boat and decided to abort. But when we were traveling to the big boat, we saw The DM was waving my mask, he was in the surface. He told us we could still continue, so we wore the fins and jumped down again. We saw slipper lobster, big colorful crabs, nudibranch and two dancing decorator crabs. The decorator crabs was lifting the fists high in the air, eh, water, face to face and made movement like dancing. I suspected they were mating?

At this trip, we were introduced to the sea apples. The bright red creature with yellow spiky tentacles. It was everywhere, sized of human head. Sea apples can be found in not many water, but in Flores water, it’s abundant and everywhere.
 
5th-6th day

First dive, we went back to cannibal rock to look for the pigmy and frogfish. The pigmy seahorse here were damn fat and big compared to the tiny one in Bali. Some were 2 cm in length and it was very easy to spot them (after the DM pointed to me of course! But in Bali, even when the DM had pointed, I was almost always still clueless), this time, it was different. We saw three fat pigmies in one seafan, it looked purple because it was quite deep. Not far from that, there was a grey big frogfish posing for picture, and a light grey one in the beginning of the dive.

We went Yellow Wall for the next dive, indeed we saw the wall full of yellow spiky nudibranch again, although since Pillarsteen, there were abundant number of them every dive. Except came in yellow color, there were white, black, red and green, more rare versions.

Cannibal Rock, Yellow Wall, Terpedo, Crinoid Wall were done around Rinca Island, one of the few islands we passed by. We saw many things, although I wouldn’t be able to mention them all, but what was fresh in my mind was on one of the dives, there were noises from our DM’s tank bangers. When we look to the direction, the visibility was not very good but we saw the shape of Ghost Manta. We finned slightly away from the reef to catch a better glimpse, and the Manta changed direction and headed towards me. I could see the mouth, the belly, the bright white and clean color. It was a magnificent and unforgettable sight for me.

After the Ghost Manta went away, we continued with the dive, and once again, our DM spotted something special from the blue. I was able to see the Eagle Ray passed around. It disappeared for a while, and then came back quite close and disappeared again.

We had very nice night dives also. In Cannibal Rock, we found four Spanish Dancer, no wonder I saw quite a lot of Egg Ribbon of the Spanish Dancer in the day! We also saw sleeping turtle, sleeping rabbit fish, Electric Crab, shaded batfish juvenile, the very very huge lobster who never moved a muscle when we took picture of it and many kind of fish.

That night, we were hanging around the boat front when we saw a squid. The small squid was swimming by. We picked up our torch to look at the funny shaped squid. It went down below the boat, then came out to another side. While we were following it with torch light, suddenly the boat crew jerked our torch to shine into something, turned out to be a giant barracuda. When we saw the giant shade, it was creepy; especially it was moving slow but steady towards the squid. The squid dived down, and the barracuda took it in one gulp.

Amazing daytime catch was when we found a Flores dragonet juvenile, something rare. We also saw many white tip sharks sleeping under the table rock daytime, three or four of them at one rock. Some bigger sized ones were sleeping solitary under the rock, or in the open, like one huge nurseshark.
We also saw jawfish with eggs but it refused to come out again to pose. Goby sharing nests with shrimp, various type of anemone fish and porcelain crab, crinoid, many many funny types of coral and from ugly Egg Cowry to very ugly and flabby nudibranch, until the funny shape nudibranch. We could see so many variant of nudibranch many dives, more than ten species of them in one dive we hardly seen anywhere else.

After Rinca Island, we passed by Padar Island and visited Three Sister. It’s a dive sites with three big sea mountain, each lay with different depth and had slightly different shallow area. The water temperature went back to 25/26/27 degree. Then we continued to dive along Komodo Island again in special dive site called Karang Makasar. It was a shallow, very shallow dive where we logged only 5,8meter! It was known as a location for manta to pass by. The DM just saw school of them in his previous dive there, but we were not lucky, no manta, although we saw a lot of macro things and many schools of snapper, scary-faced snappers, actually midnight snapper, red bass and black snapper.

6th day

After briefing, we went down to Castle Rock, this is one of my favorite dive sites. When we were waiting for others in the surface, I faced down to look at the bottom, and around me was school of thousand blue fusiliers, so many of them. Upon descending, the big fish was everywhere, many of them came in school, like very huge giant black trevally. Some gathered together as odd shape, some just hovering around the horizontal line, some played on the bottom. It was glorious to see school of huge fish meeting medium and small ones. Fusiliers, various sweetlips, various snapper, various unicorn and triggerfish, butterflyfish, angelfish and many that I couldn’t identify. It’s not many dives we saw this type of scenery! Except the fish, I also love the scenery. Table corals and big rocks were creating unique landscape with a lot of terrain. It was a mass cleaning station. Fish queue up on the table coral, while cleaner fish busy attending the their clients. I saw giant moray eel floating vertical below a table coral while the cleaner fish served it, so did an emperor angelfish with blinking satisfied look.

On this trip, we saw a lot of big reef octopus, but they were shy and only showed us the head. I played around the big rock, where a pair of very friendly Moorish Idol came to entertain me. They brushed very close; sometimes they bumped into me, chased after each other, or just played around me. It was so close that it’s difficult to take their pictures. There were some clown surgeon fish playing around too.

Second dive, we went down to Crystal Rock, it had a lot of fish too, again, we saw a star puffer following the wrong herd, the puffer was very huge lost inside school of surgeonfish. We also saw one hawksbill turtle busy eating something on the coral. Headup, head down, shaking but, diagonal, I spent minutes watching it because I was waiting for my buddy. We found pigmy seahorse again, and fat one again.

At the end of the dive, the current started to picking up fast, so we hung around the rock. From below, we could see the wave crashing to the reef. When we were on the rock, the current became very strong but we hung in there. I found a pretty-eye goby in the hole, and it kept me busy through the safety stop. Felt quite nauseous when we had to endure the choppy surface.

When we were already in the dingy, while we were approaching the big boat, a school of dolphin swam by, excatly at the point we did our safety stop! We wanted to jump back, but we wouldn’t make it easily because the current was flowing to our direction. So, we just said bye bye to the dolphin and regretted why we didn’t stay five minutes longer in the water.

At night, we arrived at Gili Banta island. From the bay, we saw the mountain standing in the dark. We always did our night dive in secluded bay, so far we had experienced the famous Komodo current, no way I wouldn’t respect that!
Night dive, we saw lots of nudibranch, sea star, shrimps, fish, cowry, Spanish dancer, it was a nice and relaxing night dive.
I found weird sea star with one leg much longer than the other four. It was very challenging also trying to catch pictures of crabs and shrimps which just jumped away just before the camera clicked.


7th day

Morning, we geared up for GPS point, hoping to see big things.
We jumped and the current was crazy! We spent few minutes fighting with the current, but the rest of the dive was okay.

We saw a lot of big school of fish and some small thing like orang utan crab, zebra crab or adam crab in sea urchin, many huge hermit, and I also saw the flatworm mimic banded batfish juvenile hiding under the rock, so did spiny lobster.

The current picked up again when we did our safety stop, we hung around a rock When we cleared our safety stop, five of us, hand to hand, let go our grip to the rock, and soon, the current flew us to the blue. When we were hanging there, we had no idea it was that strong!

Second dive, last dive of the trip, we went to Tandok Rasa, on the North of Gili Banta.
As if to say goodbye, one medium sized manta came to check us up, just minutes before we surfaced, while we were on our safety stop. It only dropped by for awhile, so we continued our safety stop and then it came back again really close and almost bumped into us.

So last dive of the trip. We took out our gears and washed them in the back, then dissembled it and dried it everywhere on the boat. Everyone was busy.
After that we relaxed, it was the last night on boat. We were sitting on the boat side watching small jellyfish swam by. The boat reached Sape jetty around noon and parked there. We watch the sunset to, the boats, big boat, small boat, fisherman boat passed by. Just like every night, we could see amazing starry night.

For the trip back, we took plane from Sape Island to Bali the next morning.

Summary, It was a fun, adventurous, fruitful and memorable trip.


Thanks for reading,
Cheers,
Ice
 
Great trip report Ice!

I'm consdiering a liveaboard to Komodo in Feb next year: diving aside what did you like/no like about the MV Tarata:

Was it crowded on board?
Was the boat in good shape?
Was the food good?
Whats the accomdation like?
Are the DMs great guides or strict nazis?

Cheers,
Rohan.
 
Tassie_Rohan:
Great trip report Ice!

I'm consdiering a liveaboard to Komodo in Feb next year: diving aside what did you like/no like about the MV Tarata:

Was it crowded on board?
Was the boat in good shape?
Was the food good?
Whats the accomdation like?
Are the DMs great guides or strict nazis?

Cheers,
Rohan.

Thanks, Rohan, F Unit.

Rohan,
To answer your question, honestly :)

Was it crowded on board?
It was ok, the boat is to cater 12 divers, with 6 twin sharing cabin. It has dining room
and sun deck. some of us just spent time around there. The front part of the boat was spacious and usually you can have all the place for yourselves.
The diving area was ok too. Not too spacious, but enough.

Was the boat in good shape?
It was ok too, everything is in working condition, and the boat, although it doesn't look luxurious, it's not in bad shape.

Was the food good?
Food was ok, not much variety though. If you are going, consider to bring a lot of snacks and tidbits. As you have to do the transit or spend overnight in Bali, you can do some shopping there. 4 of us consume one big box of tidbits. We had too much free time, and diving always make us hungry.

Whats the accomdation like?
There were two double bed cabin, and four two-singles cabin. Every cabin has attached toilet. Singles cabin has two single sized bed on top of each other, next to it was a dresser and we had clothing rack on the wall. It was small and basic, but alright for me. The attached bathroom was more than half of the cabin size. Got basin, toilet and shower. Water ok at the shower and toilet, slow for the basin.

Are the DMs great guides or strict nazis?
I consider it as great guide. They are helpful, knowledgeable and friendly.


Other things : No entertainment on the boat, except few books. There was a TV but no signal. So bring your own amusement; laptop, movies, cards etc.

Hope that answer your questions :)
 
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