Trip report Havelock island - Andamans (India)

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Bert_H

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Hi all,

I just got back from a 4 week trip to India. I spent my final week (januari 2011) diving from Havelock island in the Andaman and Nicobar islands group.

I did about 9 dives. 4 2tank dives and 1 night dives, all return trips from Havelock island. We visited the following dive sites: The lighthouse, Johnny's Gorge, Dixon's pinacles, Minerva and The Wall.

I was diving with 2 operators: Andaman bubbles and Barefoot Scuba. Their service is pretty similar. Both operate dives from the same local fishing boats.

I enjoyed the dives. Water was warm (28°C) and there were enough interesting things to see in the water to keep me happy. Comparing to the other places (Costa Rica and Egypt) where I have been diving, I don't actually considered it world class diving.
It is ok enough to myabe throw one or two days of diving in while being on Havelock, but I wouldn't recommend going for the sole sake of a diving holiday. Well, not to Havelock at least.

Up to 10-15m the corals are pretty dead and covered by some sort of algy. There were enough fish at that depth to keep me entertained, but no interesting coral. 15-25m is where it starts to get interesting. Coral is in way better shape and lots and lots of fish, although no macro. Nitrox cetrification is a must.
Although most dive centres on Havelock state that the visibility is normally 20m and more, that was definitely not the case when I was there. Visibility was 10 to 15m, with a clear view untill 10, and hazy between 10 and 15.
Trips to the dive sites are long (up to 2 hours) and the dive boats pretty basic.
A two tank dive would cost you about 3500 roupees (55 euros), maybe a bit expensive for the budget of the backpacker that Havelock mostly attracts.

I did one day of diving with Andaman Bubbles and all the other dives with Barefoot scuba. They were bot fine, although on the last day I didn't have a very good experience with Barefoot Scuba.
We set out on rough sea and one diver got very very seasick. He did go on the first dive but was not doing well in the water. In my opinion the divemaster did not really take care of him, even asking him wether he was sure he didn't wanted to come on the second dive, although the guy had pretty much passed out by than. Understandably he had a horrible experience and asked if there was a possibility to go on a local afternoon trip when the seas were calm as a compensation. The asnwer was a clear njet.

On Havelock island: it's a really beautifull place, but keep a few things in mind while visiting during the high season. It is absolutely necessary to book accomodation in advance, as everything fills up. Arriving on the evening ferry and having to spend the night in a hammock is not a very nice experience. Same for the diving. I was intending on diving with Dive India, the pioneers of Andaman diving, but they had allready filled up for the week.

As a final note, looking at the map of the Andaman islands I think it is safe to say that there must be thousands of dive sites that are still unexplored or too far out. Things tend to be concentrated around Havelock as this is where the tourists go, but there are probably way better dive sites in more remote parts of the Island range. A liveaboard would really be the best option to explore these.

Many regards,

Bert
 
Hi bert,
I went diving the Havelock 4 years ago by now.

Both my experience and my opinion differ : I was flabbergasted with Johnny's Gorge and Dixon's Pinnacle both teeming with fish life. You had to push the sweetlips schools to see the barracudas or the trevallies hunting behind, the walls were covered with vivid soft coral. There was so much more fish life than Egypt!

I think the problem for the variablity of diving comes from the fact many spots are GPS located sites and prone to sea conditions (An operator once warned me not to come around Xmas because of the seas). I have done Dixon's pinnacle on three occasions : the first was fantastic 20-25m viz, heaps of fish slowly moving, then we dived again on the same spot 1,5 hours later, we couldn't see more than 5-7m, the current was raging in, two days afterwards when retruning, the current going out heavily but the view was great and the trevallies were like wild hunting baitfish on top of the pinnacle.

I have also heard there could be some bleaching this year : do you what is the situation on the shallow sites like Minerva or South button?
 
I did one day of diving with Andaman Bubbles and all the other dives with Barefoot scuba. They were bot fine, although on the last day I didn't have a very good experience with Barefoot Scuba.
We set out on rough sea and one diver got very very seasick. He did go on the first dive but was not doing well in the water. In my opinion the divemaster did not really take care of him, even asking him wether he was sure he didn't wanted to come on the second dive, although the guy had pretty much passed out by than.
Very sensible advice from the divemaster. Stay on the boat bobbing around and seasickness only gets worse, in the water it will probably subside. The problem is people feel to sick to go diving, but that still is the best thing to do.
 
I was there at Havelock for the last week of feb, and was doing my O/W certification. Since i didn't have any prev experience i was asking around about the viz to fellow divers, the answer was that it was pretty average and low at times. If i'm right viz is poor compared to Aug-Nov when it's the beginning of diving season.

Also, i agree about the boats as well, but the operators are struggling to get permits for new boats, because of incompetence from government part. Live-aboards would be nice, but at this pace it would take years for that to happen.

I was doing my o/w course with DiveIndia and i'm very happy with how it went. The instructors and DMs there made my experience much more enjoyable. Diving at Dixon's pinnacle with Dixon, who discovered the site was the best dive of my trip.

Some observations:
1. The dive shops usually do 2 dives a day and what i've observed is that the 2nd dive is usually less exciting compared to first.
2. The effects of coral bleaching can be seen quite clearly, but at depths >15 it's quite good. Didn't see anyone snorkeling around there, compared to 2008 when lot of ppl were.
3. Bleaching can occur again if the temperature rises like last year (it went upto 34)
4. The island is pretty awesome and i'd never hesitate to go back there. The visiting crowd is increasing, so like Bert, i'd advice booking in advance for diving.


Hi bert,
I have also heard there could be some bleaching this year : do you what is the situation on the shallow sites like Minerva or South button?

Dived at Minerva and it was quite good. There were no trips to south button, but i heard it is affected by bleaching.
 
Been to andaman islands , havelock, for diving in january 2009. Can't say either it's the mecca of diving in the world but still a nice place to discover. I dived with Ocean Pearl, great cheap resort and very friendly staff, and especially calm and relax resort compare to some others where i wouldn't have liked to stay question of tranquility.
Coming back to diving, u'd say rather only andaman islands without nicobar islands as they are in different places.

Any idea if some of you got any informations about (if it opened) the dive centre in "turtle resort" in kalipur, north andaman islands ?

Any info if there are any diving structures in little andaman and it's remote islands in the nicobar islands nowadays ?
Hi all,

I just got back from a 4 week trip to India. I spent my final week (januari 2011) diving from Havelock island in the Andaman and Nicobar islands group.

I did about 9 dives. 4 2tank dives and 1 night dives, all return trips from Havelock island. We visited the following dive sites: The lighthouse, Johnny's Gorge, Dixon's pinacles, Minerva and The Wall.

I was diving with 2 operators: Andaman bubbles and Barefoot Scuba. Their service is pretty similar. Both operate dives from the same local fishing boats.

I enjoyed the dives. Water was warm (28°C) and there were enough interesting things to see in the water to keep me happy. Comparing to the other places (Costa Rica and Egypt) where I have been diving, I don't actually considered it world class diving.
It is ok enough to myabe throw one or two days of diving in while being on Havelock, but I wouldn't recommend going for the sole sake of a diving holiday. Well, not to Havelock at least.

Up to 10-15m the corals are pretty dead and covered by some sort of algy. There were enough fish at that depth to keep me entertained, but no interesting coral. 15-25m is where it starts to get interesting. Coral is in way better shape and lots and lots of fish, although no macro. Nitrox cetrification is a must.
Although most dive centres on Havelock state that the visibility is normally 20m and more, that was definitely not the case when I was there. Visibility was 10 to 15m, with a clear view untill 10, and hazy between 10 and 15.
Trips to the dive sites are long (up to 2 hours) and the dive boats pretty basic.
A two tank dive would cost you about 3500 roupees (55 euros), maybe a bit expensive for the budget of the backpacker that Havelock mostly attracts.

I did one day of diving with Andaman Bubbles and all the other dives with Barefoot scuba. They were bot fine, although on the last day I didn't have a very good experience with Barefoot Scuba.
We set out on rough sea and one diver got very very seasick. He did go on the first dive but was not doing well in the water. In my opinion the divemaster did not really take care of him, even asking him wether he was sure he didn't wanted to come on the second dive, although the guy had pretty much passed out by than. Understandably he had a horrible experience and asked if there was a possibility to go on a local afternoon trip when the seas were calm as a compensation. The asnwer was a clear njet.

On Havelock island: it's a really beautifull place, but keep a few things in mind while visiting during the high season. It is absolutely necessary to book accomodation in advance, as everything fills up. Arriving on the evening ferry and having to spend the night in a hammock is not a very nice experience. Same for the diving. I was intending on diving with Dive India, the pioneers of Andaman diving, but they had allready filled up for the week.

As a final note, looking at the map of the Andaman islands I think it is safe to say that there must be thousands of dive sites that are still unexplored or too far out. Things tend to be concentrated around Havelock as this is where the tourists go, but there are probably way better dive sites in more remote parts of the Island range. A liveaboard would really be the best option to explore these.

Many regards,

Bert
 
quick update. just got back from Havelock a few days ago. the diving is great but the reefs have been very badly hit by bleaching. reminded me of some reefs at home after the 1998 bleaching event. all the hard corals down to 10-15m depth are dead. Minnerva has very little coral now and is far from being an impressive dive site. i heard that South Button was bleached and then had heavy storm damage to a point that dive shops dont bother going there anymore.

saying all that the diving on the deeper pinnacles is still world class. good soft coral and great fish action. the Andamans are low on big pelagics but the schooling fish action is top notch. lots of napoleans and large groupers. and loads of hunting trevally. its different but its good and i wont hesitate to return.
 
Friends of mine were diving at the Andamans last February and also mentioned the bleaching.

They were also on a liveaboard so no accommodation issues
 
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