Trip Report Cocos on Wind Dancer Sept 12

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mantajohn

Contributor
Messages
267
Reaction score
61
Location
Newbury, UK
# of dives
500 - 999
Just returned from a wonderful trip to Cocos. SB’ers reports are so helpful in planning my own trips - I thought I would try to return the favour. I will avoid the ‘cut/paste from my dive log’ approach – there are loads of trip reports on here already that say ‘go to Cocos & you’ll see lots of sharks’ – it’s true, we did!

Instead I’ll try to mention a few things that might help you decide/plan a trip. If you are interested in the sightings, Dancer Fleet have posted a write up in their forum above - it’s accurate (w/c 15 Sept).

Overall:
I would book Wind Dancer again, without a moment’s hesitation. Wonderful crew – they worked so hard to make our trip fantastic & always with such a friendly, happy approach. Carlos (Cruise Director) is outstanding. The food was excellent throughout (breakfast eggs made to order, 2 course buffet lunch, 3 course plated dinners, endless fresh fruit available etc). Comfortable dive deck with 3 hot showers. Ample space & extensive camera table.

There was a really good atmosphere of shared adventure across the 21 pax who hailed from all corners of the globe and had booked in 1’s or 2’s.

We booked one of the new top deck cabins. Such a good decision. Side by side beds (not bunks), large picture window & enormous en-suite. This made a real difference as, compared to other destinations, Cocos gives you a lot of non diving time. Many of the standard cabins (& their en-suites) are quite small. Also, these new cabins have their own air conditioning thermostat – and a fridge for beers/sodas etc!

A couple of reservations:
-we were favoured by 2 very flat crossings, yet Wind Dancer was prone to roll a bit. We wondered how it would be on a rough crossing.
-the zodiacs have the most uncomfortable kitting up position, ever. Though we got used to it pretty quickly, it would be quite difficult in rougher seas. The Zodiacs are very cramped when full.
-since I was last on Wind Dancer (St Vincent/Grenadines 2009) 2 extra cabins have been added. The extra 4 pax do not really fit on the dining tables & for quite a few meals, some pax preferred to eat on their laps on the sofas rather than squeeze in.
-Dancer provide an epirb type positioning device, though it works via the office on the mainland, so I’m not sure how good it would be if you were separated from the zodiacs & needed real time help.

Bar these points, everything operates just as described on the Dancer website.

Diving:
3 dives offered every day with night dives on 3 days. 23 dives offered on the trip. I really enjoyed that you repeatedly dive on the same sites. After the initial orientation, buddy pairs can explore the sites independently on subsequent dives – just brilliant fun!

Highlights were: descending into the murk of Alcyone to spend 30 mins with wall to wall hammerheads; & a truly wonderful show of Oceanic black tip, Galapagos shark, Silky & hammerheads at Punta Maria. Do not miss the night dive at Manuelita – ‘feeding frenzy’ of white tips. Just one Tiger shark sighted – but close enough & long enough to really enjoy.

We were very unlucky with the viz on this trip. May have been connected to the earthquake a few days before we arrived. Most people opted for 5mm, with hoods and gloves (essential). Contrary to all the advice, you do not need a reef hook. In fact it would be a seriously bad idea, as you would hang above the rocks & deter the sharks, rather than blending in with the rock profile.

Group is split in 2, each with their own zodiac & DM. Dive sites alternate, reducing the number of divers on any site yet everyone all the sites. This worked really well except for on Alcyone where one group followed the other with 30 min delay. The second group consistently had noticeably poorer sightings than the first to descend.

One pax had quite a serious medical emergency at Cocos. Carlos, the crew (& a few of the guests in support) were complete professionals in dealing with the situation. It was also good to see how the competing operators co-operated in an emergency. Argo was heading back to the mainland & evacuated our casualty to avoid Wind Dancer having to prematurely terminate the cruise. We visited our friend the following week in San Jose – the hospital was impressive. Very reassuring.

Logistics:
We flew UK – Madrid – Costa Rica on Iberia, mainly to avoid connecting at Miami. A decision validated by one couple who spent the entire trip without any luggage courtesy of Miami Airport baggage handling! Madrid airport is a palace – spacious, clean etc. Overnighted at Madrid airport Hilton – excellent.

Iberia had excellent food and wine and flat beds in business class (we treated ourselves by cashing in zillions of FF points). The in flight entertainment was the worst I can remember for a decade. Take your ipad & load it with programmes.

San Jose airport is very clean, attractive, efficient. The airport taxis were good and reasonably priced. Dancer recommended using Hotel Indigo for the pre trip night. It was unexpectedly good. Comfortable, clean quiet rooms. Superfast free broadband. Friendly staff, good breakfast and a very good choice of restaurants within walking distance. On the return we had 8 hours at the airport, so booked a day room at the Marriott Courtyard. Also very good.

Summary:
Great trip. Hopefully, I’ll be fortunate enough to revisit sometime. Now planning for Palau in 2013!
 
Hi John

It's Alison here, ex Divequest.

Just want to say how thrilled I am that you had such a fantastic trip! It sure raises the bar doesn't it!

Best Wishes - may see you at the NEC?

Cheers, Alison
 
thnx for posting
 
I've been waiting for a trip report like this for Wind Dancer for a while now. I'm headed out on the boat in February - not peak shark season granted, but I'm not usually grading a shark dive based on quantity. Aparently vis is usually better though and the waters are calmer and warmer....we'll see.

I had to change trips because Star Dancer in PNG is moving to Thailand. I have done PNG once before and really wanted to go back - kinda bumbed that they didn't just leave Star Dancer in PNG and have it leave Milne Bay and go back to Kimbe/Walindi area. Oh well - I was always looking for an opportunity to dive Cocos and here it is. I'm leaving Honolulu 30Jan2013 for a two night stop and visit friends in Los Angeles to catch a hockey game than heading to San Jose, Costa Rica from there. I can't wait.

BTW....you'll love Palau. I recommend Aggressor & Dancer Fleet. October 2011 I did the Tropic Dancer (read trip report if you like :-) ) and it was an awesome trip - great boat, great crew, and the best food of any liveaboard I've ever been on.

I understand the new Carib Dancer just had a crappy trip report but we all do appreciate the honesty and accuracy, I was relieved to see it looks like I'm heading to Cocos with a dive operation and crew that has their $hit together.

Thanks again!
 
Deeper Thoughts, Kevster & ewaiea,

Thanks for replying positively. With 350+ views & virtually no postings, i was coming to the conclusion that my posting must have been too dull to be of interest!

john
 
Well, it seems I am meeting my fellow divers already before departure of the boat. I will be joining Wind Dancer on 2nd of February as well. Anticipation is huge, as I have dreamed of this trip since I saw a Ben Horton documentary of Cocos in National Geographic Channel. Since that, it has been my ultimate dive destination :)
Since I was a bit worried about being adrift (happened once in great barrier reef), I bought a Nautilus Lifeline but haven't figured out, what MMSI number to use in Cocos. My homeland issued MMSI doesn't work abroad :(
Otherwise I am very very excited and thank you mantajohn for a thorough review! See you onboard, ewaiea!

I've been waiting for a trip report like this for Wind Dancer for a while now. I'm headed out on the boat in February - not peak shark season granted, but I'm not usually grading a shark dive based on quantity. Aparently vis is usually better though and the waters are calmer and warmer....we'll see.

I had to change trips because Star Dancer in PNG is moving to Thailand. I have done PNG once before and really wanted to go back - kinda bumbed that they didn't just leave Star Dancer in PNG and have it leave Milne Bay and go back to Kimbe/Walindi area. Oh well - I was always looking for an opportunity to dive Cocos and here it is. I'm leaving Honolulu 30Jan2013 for a two night stop and visit friends in Los Angeles to catch a hockey game than heading to San Jose, Costa Rica from there. I can't wait.

BTW....you'll love Palau. I recommend Aggressor & Dancer Fleet. October 2011 I did the Tropic Dancer (read trip report if you like :-) ) and it was an awesome trip - great boat, great crew, and the best food of any liveaboard I've ever been on.

I understand the new Carib Dancer just had a crappy trip report but we all do appreciate the honesty and accuracy, I was relieved to see it looks like I'm heading to Cocos with a dive operation and crew that has their $hit together.

Thanks again!
 
Hope you both have a great trip in Feb. please post a report when you get back. I am planning to go back in 2014 and would value learning more about how the cocos varies from season to season.
 
Kuriviam....I'm looking forward to meeting you as well. Apparently there's 22 other's onboard including ourselves. I have been barely able to tie my shoe laces the last few days with my departure on January 30th (this Wednesday!). Safe travels! See you there!
 
Hey kurivaim,

It is only necessary to acquire one MMSI number. Once you have a number, it is good for anywhere in the world. When you press the red button on your lifeline, any boats within range will receive a distress signal which includes a text distress message, your MMSI number, and your GPS coordinates. If you need any assistance feel free to email us at info@nautiluslifeline.com or call our office in Vancouver at 001 604 241 1918.

Cheers,
The Nautilus Team.
 

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