Trip Report: Bad luck in Protea, Aliwal & Sodwana Bay April 2014.

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

outpost31

Contributor
Messages
118
Reaction score
28
Location
Surrey, UK
# of dives
200 - 499
Hi Everyone,

Just a heads up, not much actual diving info on here as bad luck/weather made me miss a lot of it...

Protea Banks
Unfortunately, my bad luck started on the day I flew into King Shaka, Durban in the form of tooth ache which, by the 2nd day, was so bad i needed to see a dentist. To begin with, I rented a car from the airport and drove down to Protea Banks. The drive was very easy, a couple of Tolls which were very cheap, but the scenery of this drive was fantastic, beautiful green hills and views of the coast, just wonderful.

As soon as I opened my door at Mhlangeni Lodge, I was greeted with a face licking from the owner's friendly collie Zorro which cheered me up a bit. Mhlangeni is run by Jeanne & Gianni, a lovely couple who made me feel immediately welcome. On day 1 (of 3 diving days) the 2 dives were cancelled due to bad weather as the surf was to rough to launch in, so I went back to the lodge. Then, my tooth ache got so bad, Jeanne booked me into see her Dentist and I got some Meds and painkillers to help me out.

Day 2, another 2 dives cancelled due to bad weather again, so I drove up to Oribi Gorge for some even more fantastic views and did a little self drive through Lake Eland and saw some wildebeast, antelope and zebra. Day 3, woke up with a bad sore throat but went down to the dive anyway and found that we were going out. I was diving with AfriDive who seemed very organised. We turned the boat around in the surf, hopped on and broke the waves and went about 10 mins out to sea. We went about 12m down and there were about 4 Black Tips & 1 Zambezi (Bull) swimming around the (plastic) bait ball. The blacks were very quick and regularly sped past you to check you out. Definitely a great experience! I wasn't feeling very well so I cancelled the next dive but as the sea was rough I don't think anyone else wanted the second dive.

I'd like to make a special mention to Jeanne & Gianni (& Zorro) who literally did everything they could think of to make me feel better, suggested things for me to do on cancelled days, made me up breakfast to go, booking me a dentist appointment, suggesting good places to eat but mostly for being such wonderful & caring hosts. Thank you so much for you kindness and hospitality!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/26811451@N04/sets/72157644523629606/

Aliwal Shoal
As I was driving back up the highway, I realised my sore throat was now a full on cold/flu and I had to concentrate just to make it up to Aliwal Shoal. As soon as I arrived at the OceanPark Guest House, I told them to cancel my dives the next day (with Oceanworx) and went to my room to collapse. Fortunately, my room had a very comfortable bed and the biggest wet room shower I've ever seen for this kind of guesthouse/price. I had no choice but to sweat it out over the next 3 days and cancel all my dives so I could salvage the last part of my holiday. I can't say too much about this part as I spent most of it in bed. The owners did what they could do make me feel welcome and comfortable. After 3 days I finally felt better and left to drive the 4-5hr journey up to Sodwana Bay.

Sodwana Bay
Most of this journey was by highway then it went onto smaller roads that I had no idea what they would be like. Fortunately, the whole journey was a breeze, the final part wasn't on poorly maintained roads but tarmaced roads which felt safe even in my little Toyota Aygo. The most i had to contend with was cows in the roads. There are a few lost cost tolls and petrol stations on the highway and at my destination. The views again were beautiful and I loved every minute of the journey.

I arrived at Sodwana Bay Lodge to find it was a hell of a lot bigger than I expected as the grounds were quite large and scenic. The people were all very friendly, the rooms very nice and the restaurant served very good food. I also tried a couple of places next door which were also good.

In the mornings, you drive the ten mins down the the beach toll and park up. There are locals there who want a small fee to watch you car but there are army guards there anyway, so it's up to you. Then you just walk 2 mins down to the beach. The beach and coastline itself is one of the most beautiful I've ever seen busy with people swimming, boarding, surfing and diving but didnt feel over crowded. SBL had brought my gear down so i just kitted up and we took a launch out and enjoyed the great views.

Over the 3 days I did 2 dives a day, diving Caves & Atolls, 5m, 6m, 9m, Bikini & mellow yellow. I saw a few white tips, an octopus hiding in a whole, many moray eels, two turtles, blue spotted rays and a few nice nudis. I would have to say that 9m Reef was the most enjoyable and had the most life but, overall, I was a little bit underwhelmed but the life and diversity based on it's reputation. Maybe I'm being unfair by comparing it to places I've been in SE Asia as it's in completely different waters but it did seem lacking in colour and I don't think I've ever taking so few photos. I don't really have much else in SA to compare it too and I don't know if it used to be better or it was just that time of year? I enjoyed what I saw, I just felt a bit disappointed by it.

To sum up, every year I have fantastic luck in what i see so, this year, I guess it was just my turn for bad luck and it could have always been worse i guess. Overall, from what I experienced from SA was this:

The locals were very friendly and welcoming in the places I went.
The food was excellent and cheap.
The scenery was some of the most beautiful I've ever seen.
And i met some really interesting and helpful people along the way.
It may not have been what I expected, but I made the most of it and i think I may return one day for another go...
 
Sorry to hear about the run of bad luck. Hopefully your dry excursions were enjoyable.

The 7 Mile reef is my favourite reef at Sodwana Bay. It's usually covered with life and plenty to see. I could spend a whole dive at the Amphitheater just chilling there and watching all the fish. Maybe I have just been lucky. Also seen plenty of dolphin and a whale shark every now and then.
 
Bummer, outpost31, but you have a wonderful attitude & seemed to have made the best of some unexpected/unpleasant situations, especialy considering the travel & cost involved.

May your next dive trip be extra special.

Cheers,

DocVikingo
 
Thanks for the trip report. And sorry about the bad luck. I'm glad you managed to make the best of not-quite-ideal situations. Also, congratulations on dodging the cows on the way to Sodwana -- some of them are homicidal maniacs. But, as you mentioned, the road itself is actually in great condition (I was pleasantly surprised when I went there).
 
Thanks Emjay, Doc & Xyrandomyx for sympathies, I guess I have to be philosophical about it bc whinging about it won't do me any good...but, as I say, there was still a lot of things that I did enjoy about SA, mostly the people and the wonderful scenery and I didn't encounter any of the problems/dangers that I thought I might. Although, those bloodthirsty cows could have made mincemeat of my little Aygo...sadly, they didn't.

Cheers peeps!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom