Trip Report – Ambergris Caye – San Pedro, Belize

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caseywilson

Registered
Messages
62
Reaction score
9
Location
Ridgecrest (SoCal)
# of dives
25 - 49
Just back from a ten-day dive adventure based from Ambergris Caye, San Pedro, Belize, with my two sons, Phil and Geoff. I did 12 dives and they logged 17 each. Because of the less than good weather, I have to give the overall trip an eight out of ten score.

. We landed at the San Pedro airport between downpours and made our way to our lodging at the Sunset Beach Condos, a bit south of town. The condo is an older building, but comfortable and very well maintained. No complaints there at all. I did wonder about the name since the condo faces due East. Geoff is a professional cook, actually Cordon Bleu certified, and gave the kitchen a thumbs up. Over the ten days we only ate four evening meals out. The Lone Star Grill and Cantina and Black Orchid Restaurant were within walking distance. The food was great, if pricey.

. We settled in on the first day. And, on the second, started diving exclusively with Ambergris Divers. It’s easy for me to give the operation five-stars, thumbs up, and 10 out of 10. Joey (DM, and sometimes Captain), Manuel (DM), and Gerald (Captain) made every trip safe, and except for a couple dive site choices, excellent adventures. Wilfred was DM for our one night dive and also did a great job. White Sands, Amigos del Mar, and AD were the top three on my list. I chose the latter based on talking to each of them on the telephone. Just one of those vibe things people talk about.

. We got to Belize as a tropical storm passed a couple hundred miles away. We had rain and high winds sporadically for the first six days. The first three were the worst. Timing a giant stride off the stern with three to four foot swells was one thing, but getting up the ladder after returning to the boat was a bitch. After two days of nice sunny and mostly clear skies, the rains came back, but not as hard – mostly drizzles.

. Those couple dive sites I mentioned were swim-throughs. I have no problems with swim-throughs, neither physically nor mentally. I just find it boring finning through tunnels with few visual attractions except for maybe a crab or two hiding in holes in the walls. Especially when divers ahead of me stir up the muck. That, and protecting my camera and lights make it more of a chore than an adventure.

. Phil had his wife and daughter (nondivers) along. They and Geoff did one mainland excursion for a combined “Zip Line and Cave Tubing” adventure. The report on that was thumbs; up although the scheduling was sketchy. The aforementioned drenching rains weren’t limited to the Caye. The whole country got a serious soaking. The winds resulted in some necessary safety repairs to the zip-line and the river running through the caves rose to hazardous levels — like banging folk’s heads off the overheads. It turned out to be a day-by-day check in. That in turn caused domino problems with dive scheduling. But, Karen, the Ambergris Divers honcho, did a great job accommodating our flighty schedule so we never had to stand down any day. I also skipped out on the glass-bottom boat trip but it rated thumbs up by the others.

. Early on one of the first trips Joey took along a chumming tube and attracted a literal school of nurse sharks. A couple green morays came out of their holes for lunch also. One of which came over and aggressively butted my camera lens a few times. Geoff got the same treatment with his 3-D camera rig. That was a first for both of us and I have to admit a bit of adrenalin jolt the first time it happened.

. Some of the doofus divers were both entertaining and annoying. Like the one who followed closely behind the DM in a vertical position, bicycling with the fins and rowing with the hands. Then there was the young guy that insisted on a 100CF tank and ran down to 900 psi on a 40 foot dive in 35 minutes.

. I’d post a few of the 800+ images I captured but sadly my external hard drive disappeared. That is the only grief I have to share about the entire trip. DAMN!!

By the way-----the concensus was Ambergris Caye is number two on our next dive destination list. Only because Phil is itching for Bonaire.
 
I was there during the same time. It was my 4th trip to AC this year and 16th overall. The weather was the worst in all of my trips. It is hard to explain just how hard it can rain for 30 minutes unless you have seen it. I have only ever seen rain like that during Hurricane Sandy. Fortunately, unlike the rain during Sandy, the rain only lasted 30-45 minutes each episode. With the rain came 40knt winds.

In the future give Island Divers a try. We dove with only our group of 5 all week long. They mostly let us pick the sites and the profiles. I dive with them every trip now.

I think I may have seen the feeding frenzy that you observed at Esmeralda. One of the only times that we ran into another group under water was while a DM was using a chum tube. They are not supposed to be doing that anymore, at least that is my understanding. I might have some video of your group of mostly yahoos forming a mosh pit in the sand chute with 2 morays and dozens of nurse sharks. That site is known for that spectacle.


It sounds like you were on the big Ambergris Divers boat. We spent the week in smaller boats doing back rolls rather than giant strides. They usually just throw my bc in the water and I jump into get out of the way as quickly as possible. Moving about the deck of a big rolling boat in scuba gear in those conditions must have been a challenge. We did take a stray wave or two over the bow while going out a couple of times, but mostly the smaller boat fits between the swells and goes up and down in a vertical way. My buddy described the conditions as New Jersey on the surface and Caribbean under the surface because of those waves. The viz was also not good. Usually it is around 80-120ft. We saw 30-80ft of viz with a lot of particles in the water due to the storms.

I encourage you to make another trip and enjoy better conditions.
 
AWMIII,

Yep, except for the one night dive from a panga, we did all our dives from the big boat. We three pretty much had the boat to ourselves except for one day with three teaching groups and one day at Esmeralda with eleven other divers - 2 or 3 after that. Except for the class days at Hol Chan, we picked the dive sites after day one.

This was my second trip to the Caye, and the weather the first time was stormy also, but only for the first two days. So bad then, that none of the dive operators went outside the reef. We will be back there.

Interesting stuff about donning the BC after back-rolling in from the gunnel. I might try that. Sounds easier than fitting the BC while sitting on the edge. I always end up redoing my harnessing in the water anyway. Thanks for the tip.

if you find an old gray haired geezer wearing a skin and yellow mask in your vids, I'd love to see it.
 
Being that far south from town isn't the most convenient for a more broad choice of restaurants, nor activities for the non-diver. It's pretty down that way though. You were indeed at some of the priciest restaurants around. Myself, I prefer to eat at the more local less touristy and/or expat places but that simple fare is not for everybody.
Glad you all had a good time and wishing you better weather on your next trip.
 
Sometimes it's a backroll, others it is a cannon ball, once in a great while a belly flop and once some sort of entry that involved a bloody shin and a bruised ego.
 
Being that far south from town isn't the most convenient for a more broad choice of restaurants, nor activities for the non-diver. It's pretty down that way though. You were indeed at some of the priciest restaurants around. Myself, I prefer to eat at the more local less touristy and/or expat places but that simple fare is not for everybody.
Glad you all had a good time and wishing you better weather on your next trip.

Thanks for the inputs. We all came to the same conclusion about the location. Our next trip we'll be closer to town. Got any suggestions?
 
Please tell me the requirements /wish list for your group and I probably do have a few suggestions. :)
 
I would love to hear those suggestions. I'm planning a March trip with my 23 y.o.daughter and 25 y.o. son.

Wish List:
In town near bars, restaurants and shops.
Condo, preferably on or near a beach.
Pool
Low key
Can walk to dive shop.

Thanks.
 
I would love to hear those suggestions. I'm planning a March trip with my 23 y.o.daughter and 25 y.o. son.

Wish List:
In town near bars, restaurants and shops.
Condo, preferably on or near a beach.
Pool
Low key
Can walk to dive shop.

Thanks.

I think The Palms Condos (The Palms Oceanfront Suites - Come stay with us...) meets your criteria. The beach there is as good as it gets that close to town, a pool, very nice privately owned condos next to Ramones (Home | Ramones) which has a decent dive shop. We began diving with them then switched to another down the beach. There are plenty of dive shops up & down the beach as well as many restaurants/bars. Here's a reference map: Wikimapia - Let's describe the whole world!
 
With the demise of BC's, San Pedro's version of Sundowners in West End, Roatan (TheScubaGeek.com » Best beach bar on Roatan (and the world)), I'm not sure life is worth living!:D BCs.jpg
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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