TG-6 to MFT Setup

[dianna912]

I'll be the first to admit: I am not great with grasping the camera stuff. I learn enough to figure out my settings and then forget most of what I learned. So please keep it somewhat simple.

I am a supermacro shooter. I've gotten some stellar results with the TG-6 but I know I could get better. I have been experimenting with Bokeh and bubble Bokeh quite a bit, and lately, I've primarily been using "focus lock" so I'm treating my TG-6 more like a manual focus. This has the added benefit of greatly expanding my battery life. I am frequently finding and shooting undescribed nudibranchs of the tiniest sizes (1-5mm) and with some of my photos being used in reference books, and hopefully contributing to studies, I want to up my quality. We recently shot an undescribed Hermaea species, and while my shots were great, my friend who is shooting with a Sony a6600 with a 90mm had more detail. It is my understanding that the OMSystem 90mm will step things up to an even higher level! So, that is my starting point. I 100% want the Om System 90mm.

I believe I've narrowed my options down to 2: OM-1 or the EM10 Mark IV. But the OM-5 is still in the running.

For lighting: I currently use two Backscatter Miniflashes, one on an arm, and one on the remote muck stick for some backlight work and for some snooting, and I'd rather stick with that.

I am heavily leaning towards the OM-1 with the AOI housing and the just released AOI FLP-09 port (with the OM-D to PEN converter) for the full switch functionality. The full setup for that comes in at $5000. (I'd do the lens kit so I have an additional topside lens.) I also considered Nauticam, but that puts me at $7000, and I have a hard time justifying paying that. The other option is to scale back and go with the EM10. The pros with the EM10: cost and longer batter life. The cons of the EM10: I would like to use this for some topside photography. We do a lot of waterfall hikes, so the built-in ND filter would be absolutely incredible.

I almost pulled the trigger on the OM-5 but the battery life is concerning. Is there a way to milk the OM5 for more battery life, like I have been able to do with the TG-6? This week, I had a SINGLE dive where I got 669 shots. That is 669 RAW shots! Granted, this is on a new LI-92B battery, but still, that is incredible.

On the flip side, you know the joke: shoot 20, keep 1? For me, it is more like: Shoot 50, keep 1. So it's possible with the better camera, I will have more keepers?

Any contributions would be appreciated, but please keep it to OM Systems, or I will literally never make a decision, frozen in perpetuity in analysis paralysis.

Oh, and my TG-6 housing is leaking dreadfully, hence why I want to make a decision now. I don't see the point in paying to replace it. And the OM-5 and OM-1 are $200 off right now, for an added bonus, along with $200 off the lens.

The majority of our diving is muck diving, at shallow depths, for hours, hence the big concern about battery life. But this will also be accompanying us on trips.
Then there is also a part of me that is wondering if all of this is even worth it. Is my skill where it needs to be? For supermacro, can the TG-6 really be topped? Is any improvement going to be marginal? I still can't wrap my head around how 2:1 magnification on a 20mp sensor could be better than 4x magnfication on a 12mp sensor.

Thank you!

You can find more of my shots here. These are all 5mm or less in size.

https://www.instagram.com/themacrohuntress/

 

[BoltSnap]

OM1!!! You will forget the price right after your start taking pictures with it. The advantages of the OM1 are just awesome.


Note: The OM 90mm lens is not easy to deal with, you need experience and experimentation. Don't expect great results with it from the beginning. VERY shallow depth of field. I'd start using the 60mm lens first if I were you.

 

[dianna912]

OM1!!! You will forget the price right after your start taking pictures with it. The advantages of the OM1 are just awesome.


Note: The OM 90mm lens is not easy to deal with, you need experience and experimentation. Don't expect great results with it from the beginning. VERY shallow depth of field. I'd start using the 60mm lens first if I were you.

I definitely expect a steep learning curve. I can't justify the additional expense of the 60mm with the port knowing I want the 90mm, though. I am hoping, because I've been experimenting a lot with a diopter and wider aperture for lower depth of field, that I will have a bit of a jump on the challenge.

I do have a friend with the 60mm and maybe he'll let me try it out since he wants to try the 90mm.

 

[BoltSnap]

I do have a friend with the 60mm and maybe he'll let me try it out since he wants to try the 90mm.

That's fair

 

[tursiops]

You might be surprised what Topaz Photo AI could do with your TG-6 microscope mode. The upscaling, denoising, and possible sharpening are awesome, and MUCH cheaper than upgrading your camera.​

 

[dianna912]

OM1!!! You will forget the price right after your start taking pictures with it. The advantages of the OM1 are just awesome.


Note: The OM 90mm lens is not easy to deal with, you need experience and experimentation. Don't expect great results with it from the beginning. VERY shallow depth of field. I'd start using the 60mm lens first if I were you.

You might be surprised what Topaz Photo AI could do with your TG-6 microscope mode. The upscaling, denoising, and possible sharpening are awesome, and MUCH cheaper than upgrading your camera.​

I actually have it but I feel like that is cheating a bit. I did use it on the third shot on my instagram. I tend to use it when it is a very rare critter that is in a less than ideal position, so I can’t get super close.

 

[Nemrod]

I would go Nauticam. Just saying.

I would get the lesser expensive of the two camera models as the camera is just mostly a carrier for a lens to mount to. Both being M4:3, not like the APS-C vs FF choice.

You will need more strobes with more power.

You will have a lot less depth of field and will be working at a higher F number to get depth of field and thus will need more strobe power. hat will also help you to isolate your subject by having a black background.

You will need a focus light, one that shuts off when the strobes fire.

You might find it easier at first to use a kit zoom lens and the Nauticam CMC-2 or CMC-1 wet lenses before going to a full macro specific lens.

 

[BoltSnap]

I would go Nauticam.

Agree

I would get the lesser expensive of the two camera models as the camera is just mostly a carrier for a lens to mount to.

Strongly disagree

You will need more strobes with more power.

You will have a lot less depth of field and will be working at a higher F number to get depth of field and thus will need more strobe power

Agree

You will need a focus light.

Agree

You might find it easier at first to use a kit zoom lens and the Nauticam CMC-2 or CMC-1 wet lenses before going to a full macro specific lens.

Don't agree. CMC-1 is difficult to use.

 

[Nemrod]

Cannot win them all @BoltSnap, I really mean the CMC-2. Because either can be pulled off when becoming frustrated and just shoot fish with a flat port while figuring upon what to try next. As to the camera, looks like about a $1400 differential, maybe not that much. Chump change, okay, you win , go $$$$$. Not my $$$$$$.

 

[BoltSnap]

Cannot win them all @BoltSnap, I really mean the CMC-2. Because either can be pulled off when becoming frustrated and just shoot fish with a flat port while figuring upon what to try next. As to the camera, looks like about a $1400 differential, maybe not that much. Chump change, okay, you win , go $$$$$. Not my $$$$$$.

You gotta look at the positive, more "agree" than "disagree"