Your request prompted me to finish the review I started back in June:
We spent the week of June 5-12, 2010, diving from the Peter Hughes liveaboard boat, Sundancer II. Overall, the trip was quite excellent.
The daily schedule was coffee delivered to quarters at 6:30 AM (cold breakfast available in the dining room at that time); hot breakfast, if desired, served at 7 AM; first dive at 8 AM and return about 9 AM; snack, if desired; second dive at 10:30 AM and return around 11:30 AM; lunch at noon; third dive at 1:30 PM and return around 2:30 PM; snack, if desired; fourth dive at 4 PM and return around 5 PM; sit down dinner served at 6 PM; night dive at 8 PM. The Thursday schedule did not include a night dive. On Friday AM, there was only a single, 7 AM for us, although we were told that ordinarily, two dives are done Friday AM.
Special Circumstances on our trip - Three unrelated events altered the normal procedures during our trip. First, one of the two propeller shafts had developed a bearing problem such that the bearing had become somewhat extruded from the hull. This was not dangerous, but prevented the boat from being properly maneuverable. Gradual turning was fine and speeds were normal, but routes requiring turning sharply this way and that were out. Thus, the first thing we were told during the introductory briefing about the boat was that we were not going to the Blue Hole because access required maneuverability that was not available. Simon, our captain, said that in his opinion as a diver, we should be happy.
The second event arose Thursday AM when the captain was told by management that there would be a complete ship safety inspection by Belize officials on Saturday. In order to accomplish everything necessary for the inspection, give the crew the necessary time off and prepare for the next week's trip, it was necessary to eliminate the second Friday AM dive and return to port a few hours earlier than normal.
The third event was the weather. Temperature and skies were perfect, but the wind was 20-25 mph from the east on Sunday and Monday. This prevented us from going to windward dive sites around Lighthouse Reef until Tuesday. Thus, diving was on the leeward side of Lighthouse Reef on Sunday and Monday, on the windward side of Lighthouse Reef on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday and the final dive was on the leeward side of Turneffe Island Reef on Friday AM. Your dive plans may differ.
Our trip had 18 of 20 possible berths filled with divers.
Diving - Everybody had the option of diving every dive. Few opted to do all. My wife and I are in our early 60's. My wife did 19 and I did 22 dives. Personally, I felt more tired during the first couple of diving days than the last couple. My wife indulges herself in long reading sessions without night diving.
Our cabin was #9, furthest aft port-side. It was only 4 steps from our door to the dive deck and 6 more steps to our permanent gear station. We used the same tank all week. In our case, we were given green valve covers to indicate nitrox usage. Nitrox levels read 33-34% every measurement. Each side of the dive deck had its own meter and there was never any problem making a timely nitrox measurement. Nitrox cost about $170 for the week ($7.73/dive for me and $8.95/dive for my wife).
Generally, there were 5 possible dives per day, including a night dive. All the dives were guided, but each was informal. If you wanted to do your own thing, you could. The typical dive was a wall dive with the last 10-15 min spent under the boat in 35-50 ft of water. Visibility was about 100 ft+ every dive. Some of the dive sites were outstanding; among the best I have visited. Half Moon Wall was fantastic! We saw all sorts of fish ranging from a goby that had no common name when we photographed it (similar to the neon goby; now called the Caribbean neon goby) to several reef sharks and numerous spotted eagle rays. The overall fish abundance was not equal to some other dive areas (e.g., Florida Keys or Bonaire), but the variety was normal or better than normal. I was less enthusiastic about the night dives in terms of numbers and variety.
There was one phenomenon that we did not expect because we had never seen it mentioned. That was the side-to-side swing of the boat when moored at a site. This was rather alarming during the first dive. The mooring line was fairly long and as a result, the full excursion of the boat as the wind pushed it one way, then the other was an arc of hundreds of feet. In the middle of each swing, the boat was moving too fast to catch by swimming and, if missed, it would quickly disappear out of site in the distance. So, as unnerving as this was the first couple of times, we soon learned to just wait for the boat to return to us. Then, we'd latch on to the safety stop rail 15 ft below the surface and ride the side-to-side swoop for few minutes before exiting. This actually became fun, particularly when you fully realize that the boat does come back every couple of minutes.
On the return, most divers passed up their fins before climbing one of two ladders. The dive deck was always empty except for the DM and possibly a second diver returning simultaneously.
BCDs with regs remained attached to the tank and were never rinsed until after the last dive. There was a camera rinse station adjacent to each set (half) of divers and there was a suit rinse station for each side, also. Rinsed suits were hung directly opposite the divers' stations. There was ample under-seat space for fins, masks, etc.
There was a cameras-only table for each set of half the divers. There were levels below that for such things as dark glasses or eyeglasses. A series of nearby shelves had numerous 110AC current available. This was where battery charging occurred and we were told explicitly not to charge batteries in our rooms.
Food - Overall, B rating. Within each meal, things were variable. A few things were very good to excellent; nothing was ever bad. Each sit down dinner started with a bowl of soup. These were good to excellent. Salads were the weakest part of the meal, with too much utilization of iceberg lettuce, carrot shreds and hard, pale tomatoes. There were always two main course choices for dinner. My wife is allergic to crustaceans and shellfish. Someone else ate no fish or meat. Options were always available for them. The steak one evening was unexpectedly good; the fish was just okay, its flavor covered by sauce and a crust. Vegetables were okay, but uninspired. Desserts were generally good to excellent, the quality related, I suppose, to the combined fat and sugar content. Daytime snacks usually included brownies of some time. Generally quite good. Dry roasted peanuts and cookies (Oreos) were always available in big jars in the dining area. Red and white wine were served with dinner and beer was on tap 24 hr/day. Note that the captain's rule was, "If you drink, you do not dive." (We understand that some French divers thought this was backward and how could anyone eat a meal for dinner without wine?)
What we didn't particularly like - Note that these are truly minor quibbles. (1) Our room had a king size bed when a queen size would have been a much more appropriate fit into available space. (2) There was a compressor of some sort below our cabin. When it turned on (quite often) it would cause a deep rumble which was not a problem. However, it also caused a blower fan to run and rattle in a duct in the ceiling of the deck below. The rattle was higher pitched than the rumble and initially annoying. The annoyance faded to a low level rather rapidly, fortunately. (3) We are used to diving in the Florida Keys where every effort is made to get all divers off the boat as efficiently as possible. On the Sundancer II, there was no attempt to be efficient or have divers fully prepared to enter the water when they reached the dive platform. For 1 or 2 individuals, this made sense because they had to be handed down tank and BC and to don them when already in the water. A number of divers also returned to the dive deck after each entry to receive a camera handed from a DM.
The Crew - The crew was excellent and very easy to get along with. Simon, the Captain, was clearly working to create and maintain a well organized, congenial, capable and knowledgeable group to assist guests, run and maintain the boat.