SS Viper Issue

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in too deep

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The other day while using the DPV I noticed the propeller was wobbling, for a lack of a better term.
Grabbing the propeller I get movement. I checked the pitch knob screw, and then the hub screws, finally removed all the components to look at the clutch plate and I can see 2 hairline cracks.
I wiggled the shaft and it is solid. Can I assume the problem is the clutch plate.
 

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I have never heard of a clutch plate breaking before the yoke but I guess it's possible. You can get an aluminum one and never have this problem again
Parts
 
I just pulled the hull to charge the battery and noticed drops of water. Do you think the main shaft’s seal could be a problem. It feels tight to the hand but under torque I imagine it could leak.
Should I start with a new clutch plate and check for leaks, then deal with SS if it does leak.
 
I just pulled the hull to charge the battery and noticed drops of water. Do you think the main shaft’s seal could be a problem. It feels tight to the hand but under torque I imagine it could leak.
Should I start with a new clutch plate and check for leaks, then deal with SS if it does leak.
I would just replace the shaft seal immediately. They only last a year or two anyway.

Then get a new clutch plate, Rodney's is probably cheaper than the aluminum version.
 
I own an SS Viper. The clutch plate is solid aluminum. I ordered mine with the zinc anode but it honestly doesn't need it. The clutch plate rest on the drive pin that is inserted through the drive shaft. The crack appears to be about the length of the drive pin. Your clutch plate appears to be made from plastic. The SS Viper clutch plate is solid aluminum. I ordered mine with the zinc anode just to be on the safe side, but it honestly doesn't need it. The hub components are made of plastic and can develop cracks over time.

As for moisure inside the hull, that's a tough one. Depending on your environment, you may have some condensation from high humidity air. Remember the motor compartment is sealed from the battery compartment. A leak from the high speed shaft seal should not penetrate into the battery compartment, unles you have major catasrophic flood at the back end, which at that point, I doubt you could raise the DPV out of the water without a lift bag. You should look at he hull seal between the hull and motor. Make sure the O-Ring is clean and in good condition. Replace, if in doubt.

I would start by replacing the clutch plate and the hull o-ring. Out of curisoity, how old is your Viper? I bought mine in 2015 and still working fine. You can order replacement parts for your DPV fro Dive Gear Express. The company has most of the small stuff in stock.
 
I own an SS Viper. The clutch plate is solid aluminum. I ordered mine with the zinc anode but it honestly doesn't need it. The clutch plate rest on the drive pin that is inserted through the drive shaft. The crack appears to be about the length of the drive pin. Your clutch plate appears to be made from plastic. The SS Viper clutch plate is solid aluminum. I ordered mine with the zinc anode just to be on the safe side, but it honestly doesn't need it. The hub components are made of plastic and can develop cracks over time.

As for moisure inside the hull, that's a tough one. Depending on your environment, you may have some condensation from high humidity air. Remember the motor compartment is sealed from the battery compartment. A leak from the high speed shaft seal should not penetrate into the battery compartment, unles you have major catasrophic flood at the back end, which at that point, I doubt you could raise the DPV out of the water without a lift bag. You should look at he hull seal between the hull and motor. Make sure the O-Ring is clean and in good condition. Replace, if in doubt.

I would start by replacing the clutch plate and the hull o-ring. Out of curisoity, how old is your Viper? I bought mine in 2015 and still working fine. You can order replacement parts for your DPV fro Dive Gear Express. The company has most of the small stuff in stock.

Thanks for the information.
I bought the unit used in 2012 from my LDS. It was an N19 upgraded to a Viper with Venom. Probably the reason for the nylon clutch originally being an N19.
Re: moisture, you bring up a good point, we were in fast moving water around 48 degrees and the unit was struggling. I had it on pitch 9 and full speed for about 40 minutes on and off. It’s possible that the heat from the motor created condensation.
I’ll order an aluminum clutch plate. The O ring is in excellent shape.
 
Thanks for the information.
I bought the unit used in 2012 from my LDS. It was an N19 upgraded to a Viper with Venom. Probably the reason for the nylon clutch originally being an N19.
Re: moisture, you bring up a good point, we were in fast moving water around 48 degrees and the unit was struggling. I had it on pitch 9 and full speed for about 40 minutes on and off. It’s possible that the heat from the motor created condensation.
I’ll order an aluminum clutch plate. The O ring is in excellent shape.
Is it the now 8yo original shaft seal?
 
Is it the now 8yo original shaft seal?
Or older.
I reached out to SS for some advice on Monday and they haven’t returned my call.
From what I understand I need a vacuum gauge to test the integrity once the seal is changed?
I need a clutch plate regardless
 
I picked up an aluminum clutch plate and hull O ring today. Installed and ready to dive it tomorrow. If it leaks I'll deal with the seal then.
 
New clutch solved the wobble issue.
No leaks either therefore I won’t disturbed the shaft seal with a new one.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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