Spear Gun Ideas for North Carolina

[cr295]

I scuba dive the offshore wrecks off the NC Coast. I've been using a pole spear for a few years now. 80% of the time this works fine and I've bagged reef fish up to 10lbs or so. For that other 20% (bigger fish) I'm wondering what would be a good gun in the $300.00 dollar range. I have read alot about the various guns and configurations but am still undecided. The diving conditions are mostly clear blue water...rarely under 30' vis...mostly in the 50-80' range. The water depth is between 80-130ft.

There have been several occasions to shoot large Cobia, African Pompano, etc., but I've declined to try that with a pole spear. There are also small grouper...usually under 5lbs, and a variety reef/wreck fish including tog, snapper and sheepshead that I cant often reach out to with a pole.

I think I'm ready to move up to something for those fish that are out of the range and size limitations of a pole spear. There are occasionally blue water species on these wrecks...but thats a whole other level. Any input or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[bankey]

I'm at the same point you are found this thread helpful

http://www.ncdivers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1620

I'm looking at the 48" rhino classic by spear fishing specialties at around $285 here

http://www.divesports.com/IndexPages_Brand/SFS_sub_rhinoclassic.htm

 

[Killer&Griller]

cr295--- I speardive off of NC about every 2-3 weeks. The type of fish you are targeting will depend on the gun. Cobia and AP require more knock down power than grouper 15lbs and under. Your more powerful guns are obviously going to give you more range for the larger fish that are typically more wary of spearos. You sould go to a dive shop and look at several guns. Most of them will be rail guns, semi-enclosed tracks or enclosed tracks. I shoot both Wong and Aimrite. Both of these guns will drop anything that I shoot at it. Where the handle is located will effect the loading process along with how easy the gun will sweep thru the water. Until you get used to spearing, I would recommend using a line shaft before you freeshaft. If you go to www.spearboard.com, you will see quite a bit of information about gun reviews. If you have questions, you are more than welcome to PM me on here or SB. My handle on SB is Killer&Griller. Wong, Aimrite, Rob Allen, Riffe, Spearfishing Specialties, etc are all good guns, just layed out a little different with specific methods for spearing. The best thing to do is go with other spearos and try a couple of different guns to get a feel for what you like. I can also give you a name for someone that brokers alot of used guns so you can get the most bang for the buck.

 

[rigdiver]

I suggest a Riffe NoKaOi based on your needs. It's way more than $300, but you will be happy with it. And, it will last for years. Unless of course a big fish takes it away from you. I've had it happen once, and seen it happen once. Big AJ's are tough. Grouper and Snapper are just going to the bottom and hole up.
Bill

 

[pescador775]

I've killed amberjack and cobia up to 85 pounds with a Biller 54. However, my buddy landed some nice jacks with only a Biller 48. You will need a detachable head and three bands. Download to two bands for hole shots. The pompano is a good fish, fine eating. About the above advice, the expensive guns; not needed for what you are doing, or plan to do. Except for big grouper, most fish are pretty soft, and a 3 band Biller will do the job. If you are shooting at a really big grouper, get CLOSE and don't hit it in the head or gill plate which are like concrete. Biller guns show up on EBay all the time. Get the late model gun which can be identified by the grip and muzzle. The handle has a grip guard and the muzzle is slotted. These guns have the improved trigger and are stiffer. A mahogany gun has better flotation while teak is more expensive and heavier. However, it will last longer than 10 years and provides more stability shooting with a heavy rubber load.

 

[cr295]

Im looking hard at both the aimrite 110 carbon and the riffe 110 euro. Any strengths of one over the other? Both are about +- $400 which is a little more than I initially wanted to pay.

Once I started breaking it down though and comparing it to other diving related equipment, dive trips costs, fuel costs, etc...$400.00 isnt so bad, providing the gun will last and do what I want. For the most part I believe you get what you pay for...I'm hoping that is the case here.

I would hate to have the gun stripped from me by a big fish but I guess that is the chance we all take. I'm also thinking I need a reel. Any suggestions on that? Go with the same brand as the gun I get?

Thanks for all the suggestion and advice guys. I guess in the end it boils down to buying what you are comfortable and happy with. I probably wont make the purchase till this fall/winter so I'll have it ready for use next spring.

 

[Johnoly]

Just my 2 cents. You said that you are going to do alot of wreck hunting. If you are shooting into a wreck you don't want a reel where the fish will be going wild and tieing it up and all you can do is cut the line losing your spear. Stick to a lineshaft gun which only has about 12-15ft of line on it. You are trying to stop the fish from hole-ing up in the wreck by slowing him down. A reel like you asked about is mostly for freediving, where you shoot the fish, then ascend to eventually pull him to the surface.

On your question of Aimrite vs Riffe Euro. Since you are working wrecks, it's much easier to put a light on the end of our gun versus you hand carrying it to shoot a fish in low light conditions. The Aimrite is carbon fiber and you shouldn't drill it to attach the light. The Riffe is wood, but I don't know if Chad's light holder will work on it. Both Aimrite/Wong & Riffe guns are incredible quality, but it's the style of gun that you need to look at and both have other guns that might be better for your shooting style than a Euro style gun.

 

[Johnoly]

I'm at the same point you are found this thread helpful

http://www.ncdivers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1620

I'm looking at the 48" rhino classic by spear fishing specialties at around $285 here

http://www.divesports.com/IndexPages_Brand/SFS_sub_rhinoclassic.htm

I started with the same 48" Rhino and I shot a heck of alot of fish with that gun, you'll really like it, but keep your bands new. Change them out at the very first signs of tiny stress cracks right at the cable ends where the tie is. Once you see the tiny cracks the band has lost it's punch and you will be missing alot of shots because the spear falls off too quick.

 

[Killer&Griller]

cr295---- Just curious, is there a reason that you are wanting to hunt wrecks? You will find that if you hunt ledges and live bottom with relief, you will have better luck on grouper and hog fish than on wrecks alone. This is also nice since if you shoot a nice fish, he is going to "hole" up on the ledge, not go inside a wreck. Just thought I would throw that out there. Maybe you already realize that.

 

[cr295]

I dive out of Hatteras on my own boat and another private boat. The wrecks are about the only game in town. The bad bottom, ledges, etc are further inshore (shallower) and closer to the Diamond Shoals, so the vis, current and other conditions apparently arent as optimal as the area's further offshore where most of the wrecks are. Admittedly I've never tried diving the bad bottom area's so I don't know personally what to expect or how to go about diving it. I heard that the freedivers often hit the bad bottom areas for their hunting and tournaments so I assume if the conditions are right they might pay off. The wrecks can get pretty crowded during the height of the summer. There are always decent fish there but most of the really nice fish I've seen were in the spring or Fall when the dive boat volume is low.