SP-350 soft focus issue

[merxlin]

I just got back from Roatan, and found that several of my pix had a soft focus. Most were taken from a distance of 12"-15" with a strobe. I did notice the background seems to be in focus. I was using the autofocus set to "Spot". I half press the shutter, wait until it seems to fix on the focus point, then shoot. I'm using a YS-90 strobe with TTL. There does not seem to be any consistency in which pix came out soft and which ones did not. I cannot shoot manual focus as my vision does not allow me to see well enough to determine if the view is focused or not. Any suggestions?

 

[Larry C]

First, make sure both focus settings are set on spot. There is one AF setting and a second focus setting on a different menu. Should be set to AF, Full-time AF off, Spot Focus.
Next, the camera sucks at focus in low light. A spotting light of some sort really helps. I just use a 4aa pocket light hooked to my strobe arm, otherwise the camera will hunt endlessly for focus and then pick up the strongest signal.
For smaller, hard to focus objects, you can focus on something strong at the same distance, hold the button halfway, move to your subject and shoot.
Another thing that could be happening is that the issue isn't camera focus, but a slight blur from a moving subject. Since you're using a strobe, try upping your shutter speed to the next level. If you're shooting at 1/60, try 1/80. You might have to open your lens a bit more to make up for it. I've found the camera to be very happy at f5.6@1/60 in the dark waters of Monterey. You can go easily to 1/80 or 1/100 in clearer tropical water without dropping your f-stop. If you are using a very low f-stop, as f2.8 or f3.5, you'll have poor depth of focus and blur either the foreground or background. If possible, stay with at least f4.5 which works fine for wide angle shots even in darker water.

 

[rjsimp]

My wife shoots this camera and I have some also. The fact is, the focus finds a point and you need to stay perfectly still (no moving in and out) while it shoots the shot. In this particular picture, you are trying to shoot a very fast subject that moves a lot (usually) so you could have ended up truely getting a focus on the background and not the true subject.

This happens with any camera, part of the solution is realizing the limitations and what it takes to get the sharp picture. Manual focus mode is a possibility for a shot like this, but may be difficult as well. Shoot LOTS of shots so you have options. You will likely get a few that look good if you take several shots trying to focus and get the lighting just right.

If it makes you feel any better.. Even DSLR cameras can be tricky to get a focus and shoot a nice crisp shot. They are easier than many P&S to get a good focus because they are faster, but the problem still does occur.

Additionally to clarify on what Larry was saying. This is a close up shot.. The SP-350 with a strobe on a fish shot could be something like a F7.1 or one step down with a shutter speed of 1/500.. Wide angle shots are more forgiving with lower shutter speeds, but when you are close, you should really up that shutter to stop the movement. My wife routinely shoots Macro/closeups with 1/500 and a strobe.. Wide Angle at 1/125 or so..

 

[rjsimp]

Here is a sample of a photo with an SP-350. Just to give you an idea on how a picture can come out with the settings I was talking about.

It was shot with F8 and 1/500 shutter.

 

[merxlin]

First, make sure both focus settings are set on spot. There is one AF setting and a second focus setting on a different menu. Should be set to AF, Full-time AF off, Spot Focus.
Next, the camera sucks at focus in low light. A spotting light of some sort really helps. I just use a 4aa pocket light hooked to my strobe arm, otherwise the camera will hunt endlessly for focus and then pick up the strongest signal.
For smaller, hard to focus objects, you can focus on something strong at the same distance, hold the button halfway, move to your subject and shoot.
Another thing that could be happening is that the issue isn't camera focus, but a slight blur from a moving subject. Since you're using a strobe, try upping your shutter speed to the next level. If you're shooting at 1/60, try 1/80. You might have to open your lens a bit more to make up for it. I've found the camera to be very happy at f5.6@1/60 in the dark waters of Monterey. You can go easily to 1/80 or 1/100 in clearer tropical water without dropping your f-stop. If you are using a very low f-stop, as f2.8 or f3.5, you'll have poor depth of focus and blur either the foreground or background. If possible, stay with at least f4.5 which works fine for wide angle shots even in darker water.

Thanks Larry. I actually was using a small spotting light on most shots, but can't remember if I did for this particular shot. This was shot using ISO 100, F 4.9 at 1/250. I'll check the second AF setting and make sure I have them both set correctly.

BTW, I have not ruled out operator error in this.

 

[merxlin]

My wife shoots this camera and I have some also. The fact is, the focus finds a point and you need to stay perfectly still (no moving in and out) while it shoots the shot. In this particular picture, you are trying to shoot a very fast subject that moves a lot (usually) so you could have ended up truely getting a focus on the background and not the true subject.

This happens with any camera, part of the solution is realizing the limitations and what it takes to get the sharp picture. Manual focus mode is a possibility for a shot like this, but may be difficult as well. Shoot LOTS of shots so you have options. You will likely get a few that look good if you take several shots trying to focus and get the lighting just right.

If it makes you feel any better.. Even DSLR cameras can be tricky to get a focus and shoot a nice crisp shot. They are easier than many P&S to get a good focus because they are faster, but the problem still does occur.

Additionally to clarify on what Larry was saying. This is a close up shot.. The SP-350 with a strobe on a fish shot could be something like a F7.1 or one step down with a shutter speed of 1/500.. Wide angle shots are more forgiving with lower shutter speeds, but when you are close, you should really up that shutter to stop the movement. My wife routinely shoots Macro/closeups with 1/500 and a strobe.. Wide Angle at 1/125 or so..

Thanks Rich. I'll try some higher shutter speeds and F-stops.