Solomons: Tulagi Stopover?

[reubencahn]

So, with Solomon Airlines ever changing schedule, it now appears as though we will have to fly straight through from the states to Honiara, arriving on a Tuesday even though our trip on the Bilikiki doesn't start until Thurs. I understand that Honiara is not a place worth staying. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with Tulagi. Is it close enough to transfer, do some dives Tuesday afternoon, Wednesday, and maybe Thursday morning before transfering back to Honiara to meet the Bilikiki? How is the diving? Accomodations? Any info is appreciated.

 

[lemurs2]

I see you are from the same area as me. When are you going? We are planning a liveaboard for sometime between Aug and the beginning of Nov. We are looking for the most econmical out of PNG, the Solomons and Indonesia. Here is a good site I found that had some info for the Solomons: http://www.divefishsnow.co.nz. Please post a trip report when you get back

 

[reubencahn]

I see you are from the same area as me. When are you going? We are planning a liveaboard for sometime between Aug and the beginning of Nov. We are looking for the most econmical out of PNG, the Solomons and Indonesia. Here is a good site I found that had some info for the Solomons: http://www.divefishsnow.co.nz. Please post a trip report when you get back

I've looked at that site. It's the only one, other than Tulagi's own, that has any info on the operation. It certainly sounds good. We'll be there the end of July/beginning of August. I'll post a report.

I think you'll find that Indonesia is the most "economical". Flights through Singapore to either Manado or Bali are relatively cheap and there are some less expensive liveaboards that may sacrafice comfort but are highly rated for dive operations. Specifically, I've heard very good things about Grand Komodo Tours, http://www.komodoalordive.com/home.htm Even the higher priced operations are slightly less expensive than those in PNG and Solomons. (Personally, I would stay away from the Kararu. If you do a search, you can find a lengthy negative report I posted.) If I were going in November (I'm not able to because I have a school age son) I would book a Raja Empat trip.

Having said that, I dove PNG with the Golden Dawn several years ago and would highly recommend that boat and PNG, but it is expensive. You have to get to Australia which is more expensive than getting to SE Asia and then flights to PNG are pricey. Once there, the boats themselves are more expensive. But it's a great experience.

 

[Shasta_man]

I was on the Bilikiki in April 06.

I have the following observations:

- After the "leave at midnight flight" to Fiji from LAX, after spending the day getting there, as well as the oh so comfortable airplane seating, I'm pretty wore out after arriving. YMMV.
- If you are history inclined, particularly WWII, then there is enough to do for a day.
- We spent the extra day in Fiji, then flying onto the Solomons via Vanuatu, arriving on boat departure day. I love Fiji and there is time to kick back but not much else.
- The Bilikiki picks you up and puts you in a hotel until midday when prior guests are off and you get on. There is time to go for souvenirs if you want. Wood carvings are very nice and reasonably priced.
- Most importantly, I wouldn't be surprised if the airline schedule changes again.
- I'd be particularly leery of cutting your schedule too close. The entire area, starting in Fiji, is on island time. Planes leave at different times, people get bumped by important people, your important concern isn't always the concern of the staff, planes are cancelled, changes to travel are made through local agencies which have unfamiliar schedule for doing business, weather rolls in, luggage is lost, etc. You can't count on the schedule to the degree which it is adhered to in the states. Nowhere near. Or everything could be fine.

Up to you, but my concerns go: getting on liveaboard, everything else.

As for the Bilikiki, we had an excellent time. Beautiful locations, some stunning. Hope you get out to Mary Island and the volcano. It was thumping us in the chest throughout the dives. Tip: the video camera doesn't get all the low frequency sound that you hear. You get tropics rain: Sun, rain like Hades, sun again. Excellent experiences around the native people. Real living in a hut on stilts next to the water. And laugh?! Nobody can be happier than the kids in their worn clothes, swimming like fish. A quick experience: I kept hearing childrens voices at dinner when we were anchored. Came out for the night dive; there were about 25 kids sitting all over canoes and the dive skiffs, silently watching us. We suit up, under observation, get in the dive skiff. Everybody watching. I point to my head and say what the kids are thinking: "crazy". Everybody laughs. Watch out for the thermocline between the upstairs and the cabins. And watch out for the railing down to the cabins. I think that's how I caught another members illness near trip end.

 

[reubencahn]

I was on the Bilikiki in April 06.

- I'd be particularly leery of cutting your schedule too close. The entire area, starting in Fiji, is on island time. Planes leave at different times, people get bumped by important people, your important concern isn't always the concern of the staff, planes are cancelled, changes to travel are made through local agencies which have unfamiliar schedule for doing business, weather rolls in, luggage is lost, etc. You can't count on the schedule to the degree which it is adhered to in the states. Nowhere near. Or everything could be fine.

Normally, I wouldn't even think about this. My plan had been: arrive in Fiji, overnight there, sleep off jetlag, and make sure all gear arrived. Next day fly to Honiara, overnight, then get on the boat. But now I've got two nights and days, and I've heard Honiara has little to recommend it. Tulagi seemed like a good possible option, only a boatride away and good diving, sort of like Loloata when you're on your way through Port Moresby to other points.

Incidentally, a friend warned me about the freezing cabins. She recommended bringing cardboard and duct tape to cover the a/c vents.

 

[Shasta_man]

I'll be guessing on Tulagi, but that would appear your best alternative since it's only a boatride and you don't have to worry about getting on a plane after diving.

Here's another thought: have you asked the Bilikiki for suggestions? Monty and Michelle could likely provide the best input for suitable locations you could get back from. I have their direct e-mail which I would provide directly to you if you would like.

Cold cabins: hmmm, if you're from California, I would speculate you'll probably find them comfortable. If you were used to humidity, then you would probably be cold. Coming up from the cabins below, it is a pretty significant change at midday in the salon, which is open air. Some serious heat. But I think that was partially a product of the kitchen being there and limited air circulation as outside, under a cover, the ambient temperature was actually nice. Again, you would have showers occasionally coming through, which may have affected my perception.

 

[reubencahn]

I'll be guessing on Tulagi, but that would appear your best alternative since it's only a boatride and you don't have to worry about getting on a plane after diving.

Here's another thought: have you asked the Bilikiki for suggestions? Monty and Michelle could likely provide the best input for suitable locations you could get back from. I have their direct e-mail which I would provide directly to you if you would like.

Cold cabins: hmmm, if you're from California, I would speculate you'll probably find them comfortable. If you were used to humidity, then you would probably be cold. Coming up from the cabins below, it is a pretty significant change at midday in the salon, which is open air. Some serious heat. But I think that was partially a product of the kitchen being there and limited air circulation as outside, under a cover, the ambient temperature was actually nice. Again, you would have showers occasionally coming through, which may have affected my perception.

I actually just e-mailed the Bilikiki's general contact address. If I don't get a response, I'll take you up on your offer.

Though I'm now a Californian, I'm still a Floridian at heart. I'm getting used to it, but I'm still freezing about half the time.

Incidentally, did you post a report on your trip?

 

[Shasta_man]

No, unfortunately, it hasn't bubbled to the top of the priority list.

I'll try to assemble a mini report that would be of value.

Comments for now are:

Diving was generally good, with viz lower than I expected, with few sharks, unfortunately. Some decent spots and some very good spots. The sights were generally beautiful among the islands. Amazing experiences with village people. Crew was generally good and helpful. Monty was a character while flexible and safety conscious. Dive skiffs were simple and very efficient. Dive as individual if desired. More to come.

Any specific questions?

 

[boxcar]

I dived Tulagi last year at this time...the diving was good...some very nice drifts along spectacular walls, the twin tunnels (which you'd probably do on Bilikiki anyway) and several WWII wrecks (ships and planes)...As for just a day or two, I don't know if its worth it...as the accommodation is basic...and may not provide the level of comfort you'd prefer...esp when shaking off the jet lag...but the diving is worth it if you had a bit more time...the Aaron Ward is impressive, but a big dive at 60+ meters, the Kanawa is also good at closer to 45m...Neil (Yeats?) of Tulagi dive is good and knows his stuff.

Honiara will probably live down to your expectations...we were there just before and just after the riots last year...lots of buildings burnt out...I haven't heard what the latest is on the state of the city...there are a couple of decent accom choices...good for relaxing after a long flight and getting ready for a great trip on the liveaboard...we picked up a few woodcarvings and walked around for a couple of hours, but that was enough for me...

 

[leeaf]

I did the Bilikiki in 2004 and it was an awesome trip. You will not be disappointed. Tulagi is only a boat trip away from Honiara so it is a definite option and as Ben says, the key attraction (besides Twin Tunnels which you will definitely do with Bilikiki) is the Aaron Ward. Although it is a 60m dive it is quite staight forward and the local dive operator - Tulagi Dive - has a very good system using deco bars etc. The chance to dive a destroyer sitting upright and in very good condition should not be missed IMO. It is certainly one of my most memorable dives.

Bilikiki do not usually offer the Aaron Ward (although if everyone asked for it they would probably agree. Monty's first dive on it was with us.) so going to Tulagi would be a better option. There are also another couple of wreck dives in that area like the Moa. Neil Yates ran Tulagi Dive when we were there and his contact details were

Email - tulagidive@solomon.com.sb
Web - www.tulagidive.com.sb

I'm sure he will be able to sort out accommodation and diving for you if you contact him.

Have a great time.

Lee