Snoot print files for YS-110a?

[Barryattle]

I am just curious if anyone has 3D-printed a snoot for the Sea & Sea YS-110a strobe (that they would be willing to share). There are files on Thingiverse for the YS-01 and for the YS-D1, but I can't find anything out there for the YS-110a and I don't think the YS-D1 design will work on the YS-110a without some modification (and I am hoping to ask a friend to print them for me, so can't easily do fiddling/tweaking myself).

Thank you.

 

[LeopoldToth]

Hi,

I'm just planning to create a snoot for my YS-01, as I have not found on Thingiverse (I found the YS-D1). Can you share the link to it?

If you measure your strobe, I can put something together in FreeCAD in no time.

 

[Barryattle]

Darn - sorry, my error. I saw things come up at "Yeggi" saying YS-01 snoot but, when I go look, it appears to be search engine optimization crap. Just the YS-D1/D2 design on Thingiverse and they are selling printed versions.

Many thanks for the kind offer to put something together in FreeCAD. I got started on this when a dive buddy told me he had just gotten a printer and printed snoots for his (non S&S) strobes. Maybe I should learn a little CAD and see if I can modify the YS-D1 thing to work on the YS-110a; size at the opening of the strobe is quite similar (looks like at most 0.1-0.2mm different), though I think the needing tapering is different and the 110a does not have the bump needing a cutout.

 

[LeopoldToth]

Hehe, search engines tricked me too on this.

Now I have an updated version for YS-01 (original, non-solis):

I'll print it tomorrow to dry-test (my strobe is 1300km away).

 

[Barryattle]

Nice! I was wondering how to deal with the shape of the front of the YS-01 and that's a great design for mounting and just swinging the snoot over or out of the way. I was using a YS-01 (non-Solis) and YS-03 but grabbed a pair of 110a's when they came up here so I could have 2 TTL strobes (and a bit faster recycle/more power). Turns out, TTL mostly underexposes so I am still shooting manual. But, after weeks, someone finally expressed interest in the YS-01/YS-03. Tempting now to keep them and beg for a copy of your files.. Sigh...

 

[LeopoldToth]

I can't register for thingiverse for some reason ("wrong email format").
Here is the model (FreeCAD and 3mf). Work in progress, not tested or cleaned up yet though.

I still want to use the two holes made for the diffuser for better grip. If you can measure them precisely (size and position from top and front), I could drop in two small shoulders into the green part.

 

[LeopoldToth]

Printed it, but needs some modding to make the lock better.

Thingiverse started to work, but need to wait 24h to post...

 

[Barryattle]

Printed it, but needs some modding to make the lock better.

Thingiverse started to work, but need to wait 24h to post...

I'm probably the wrong person to try to measure these accurately. I have calipers, but no expertise with trying to figure out how to measure the distances when surfaces are offset, curved, etc. But since the purchase of my YS-01 and YS-02 hasn't happened yet, I still have them here.

My best estimates:
Distance from front of strobe to beginning of diffuser grooves - 19.5(ish)mm
Width of diffuser groove - 1.8mm
Length of diffuser groove (following the surface of the strobe body) - 24.0mm
The toughest one is distance from top. Very roughly, from the top of the strobe (edge of the clear plastic front), adjoining the black body to the top of the diffuser groove is ~17.5mm - but that's just eyeballing a straight edge tangent to the top, then measuring a perpendicular from that straight edge to the top of the groove. But if you don't try to fill the entire groove, but allow some space at top and bottom for likely mismeasurement, you should be able to get things that go into the grooves.

Oh - but I just realized you said "the two holes made for the diffuser." My S&S diffusers click into grooves below the round holes just realized I think you are referring to and don't relate to the holes at all. But the holes would give a better grip. I am measuring on the upper holes. The diameter of those holes is 4.8mm. Position, as above, is trickier/less precise. I get ~23.85mm from the back side of the hole to the front of the strobe; with the hole 4.8mm diameter, that would mean 23.05mm (so maybe really 23mm) from the front face of the strobe. The bottom edge of the hole is even with the top of the diffuser groove, so based on my above measurements, that would put the top of the hole ~(17.5-4.8)mm, or ~12.7mm down a perpendicular from a tangent to the top of the strobe.

Do those measurements help? Or can you suggest a more accurate way to measure? Happy to try to help, though I think you'll likely have to print and expect to adjust things a bit no matter what.

Oh, if you are interested in trying to use the grooves, the diffuser has little grips 20mm long x 1.5mm wide x 1.6mm deep.

And anybody out there with YS-110a snoot files, love to hear from you!

 

[LeopoldToth]

Thanks a lot!
I have uploaded the snoot for YS-01:

leopoldtoth's Thingiverse Profile

Learn more about leopoldtoth on Thingiverse.

www.thingiverse.com

 

[Barryattle]

You're welcome! I hope my measurements were accurate enough that the grips fit and this works for you and others.

And if anyone has done this for the YS-110a, let me know.