Pao
Contributor
Is there a guide to how long the bungee (single length) should be? Is there a "proper" way of determining bungee length?
SM Bungee Length
- Thread starter Pao
- Start date
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DevonDiver
N/A
The exact length will often be determined by;
(1) How you are rigging/routing it... often determined by the model of sidemount BCD.
(2) Your body size - in particular your torso circumference/back width.
Start at a reasonably long length, the dive, test and adjust until you've got it perfected. It helps to have an 'observer', or even better a photographer, to give you feedback on how your tanks are sitting.
Buddy.... you have details of what you are/will be diving... and any photos of you in the water?
I'm running a sidemount course in Subic on the 6/7th. You're welcome to pop up and go over the kit and/or come for a dive to test and adjust your rig.
(1) How you are rigging/routing it... often determined by the model of sidemount BCD.
(2) Your body size - in particular your torso circumference/back width.
Start at a reasonably long length, the dive, test and adjust until you've got it perfected. It helps to have an 'observer', or even better a photographer, to give you feedback on how your tanks are sitting.
Buddy.... you have details of what you are/will be diving... and any photos of you in the water?
I'm running a sidemount course in Subic on the 6/7th. You're welcome to pop up and go over the kit and/or come for a dive to test and adjust your rig.
As above, it depends. Ultimately, the tanks should be held tight but still manageable. Depending on your rig you might be able to experiment.
OP
Pao
Contributor
Actually I'm in the middle of a course. My instructor adjusted the bungee and fixed both ends to the shoulder D-rings with zip ties. I was fiddling with my harness and wanted to put bolt snaps at the ends for easy removal of the bungee. I took off the zip ties intending to put the bolt snaps later when I get my hands on some heat shrink tubing. When I re-checked the bungee, the telltale marks of the zip ties were gone! I just thought there was a "scientific" way of going about it. I think I'll just wait for the next session and be content on putting a bolt snap on one end only 
. Thanks for all the replies!
. Thanks for all the replies!
MSargeant
Contributor
Run it around your back, then to where your shoulder D rings are, make sure its taut but you're still able to pull out away from you a good length (enough to get around a shoulder on the cylinder valve), 17-18inches is common but it comes down to how wide you are essentially.
OP
Pao
Contributor
Thanks!
There are different systems in use, but for a loop bungee you generally want it short enough so that you can "chicken wing" and just reach it with your thumb, yet have it just long enough to stretch over the tank valve.
The outcome you want is to have the tank valve/reg up high in or slightly behind the armpit with the tank in the same plane as your torso.
The outcome you want is to have the tank valve/reg up high in or slightly behind the armpit with the tank in the same plane as your torso.
skankpile
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I give you the SkankRig:
After a while you will know where you want your tanks and adjust accordingly as it depends on your dexterity, body shape, exposure suit, and your harness/wing configuration. I cannot stand seeing people swimming with perpendicular tanks. I understand empty cylinders and helium will make the butts float up, but there is no excuse for the valves knuckle dragging.
I'm a stickler for perfect trim and streamlining so I made these. They are similar to the DR ring bungees but with no sewing. It is easy to find and stretch the ring when attaching the bottles, and I can walk around with HP100s if I want to torture myself.
to make them:
I find the length I want and zip tie it so the bungee around the quick link will not be under tension in the final assembly, and then zip tie the bottom around the ring to get the correct length. I draw the whole assembly to about 35lbs to streach bungee and wrap it with BCY serving material (poly dyneema) and pull the loop under the serving so there are no knots (like archery serving). Finally I release the tension, cut off the zip ties, trim the excess bungee and burn the nylon to keep anything from raveling.... perfect ring bungee.
![RingBungee1.jpg](http://[URL="http://www.scubaboard.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/182228/title/ringbungee1/cat/500"][IMG]http://www.scubaboard.com/gallery/data/500/RingBungee1.jpg)
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![Serving_ringbungeeSm.jpg](http://[URL="http://www.scubaboard.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/182229/title/serving-ringbungeesm/cat/500"][IMG]http://www.scubaboard.com/gallery/data/500/Serving_ringbungeeSm.jpg)
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---------- Post Merged at 09:04 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 08:35 AM ----------
---------- Post Merged at 08:56 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 08:35 AM ----------
Follow up.. the ring bungees are only part of the system. You have to have the tanks properly trimmed as well. This system is fully adjustable, and stays high and tight with no slop. Its not for everybody, but this works and works consistently for me.
The key is getting the top bolt snap in a comfortable position, and maintaining a constant position. The bottom is adjustable to trim out depending on butt plate/ring position. I use two bands to keep anything from moving, and all my bottles have L&R DR valves so the valves are always facing into me.
Notice the loop around the top ring with a 1" triglide... I started doing this because holding an HP100 and snapping it in was hella-heavy and hard with drygloves.. this lets me hold the tank with my two outside fingers and work the clip with my thumb and have the index finger under the snap. They are on the opposite side as each strap is made for a Left or Right tank.
-400lb test PMI rope
-12K+ lb test strapping
-hardware (big ring clips, bands, 1" triglide)
-Poly thread
-sewing machine to put it together with proper stitching to hold weight (there is a formula bit I cant recall it)
After a while you will know where you want your tanks and adjust accordingly as it depends on your dexterity, body shape, exposure suit, and your harness/wing configuration. I cannot stand seeing people swimming with perpendicular tanks. I understand empty cylinders and helium will make the butts float up, but there is no excuse for the valves knuckle dragging.
I'm a stickler for perfect trim and streamlining so I made these. They are similar to the DR ring bungees but with no sewing. It is easy to find and stretch the ring when attaching the bottles, and I can walk around with HP100s if I want to torture myself.
to make them:
I find the length I want and zip tie it so the bungee around the quick link will not be under tension in the final assembly, and then zip tie the bottom around the ring to get the correct length. I draw the whole assembly to about 35lbs to streach bungee and wrap it with BCY serving material (poly dyneema) and pull the loop under the serving so there are no knots (like archery serving). Finally I release the tension, cut off the zip ties, trim the excess bungee and burn the nylon to keep anything from raveling.... perfect ring bungee.
---------- Post Merged at 09:04 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 08:35 AM ----------
---------- Post Merged at 08:56 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 08:35 AM ----------
Follow up.. the ring bungees are only part of the system. You have to have the tanks properly trimmed as well. This system is fully adjustable, and stays high and tight with no slop. Its not for everybody, but this works and works consistently for me.
The key is getting the top bolt snap in a comfortable position, and maintaining a constant position. The bottom is adjustable to trim out depending on butt plate/ring position. I use two bands to keep anything from moving, and all my bottles have L&R DR valves so the valves are always facing into me.
Notice the loop around the top ring with a 1" triglide... I started doing this because holding an HP100 and snapping it in was hella-heavy and hard with drygloves.. this lets me hold the tank with my two outside fingers and work the clip with my thumb and have the index finger under the snap. They are on the opposite side as each strap is made for a Left or Right tank.
-400lb test PMI rope
-12K+ lb test strapping
-hardware (big ring clips, bands, 1" triglide)
-Poly thread
-sewing machine to put it together with proper stitching to hold weight (there is a formula bit I cant recall it)
DaleC
Contributor
Skank, can you show a shot of how they are attached to the BP?
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