Slides Questions

[Bluey2King]

Hello;
Its been a few years since I dove and the wife and I are planning a trip this spring.
I have a MX-10. I have shot prints mostly I think I was using 200 and 400 Kodak film, I took a photo lesson and they had me use slide film so they could develop it and evaluate my shots. I dont remember what type of slide film I used. I do remember it was pro film???
We are thinking of a Live-Aboard and they do E6 processing.
What do I need to know about slides? Tips
How do you transfer slides to digital? Costs.... Should I buy a 12 pack or so on line?
I am sure I will have more Questions but l want to get started thinking photography.
Thanks

 

[victor]

First get a refresher course before you go on this trip.
The task loading when you have not been diving for a few years and diving with a camera is way to high and may be dangerous for both of you.

Next Photograpy
Go Digital, you will, probably save the cost of the camera is what you will save on film processing.

It's way better than film where diving is concerned. If all you are wanting is snaps underwater then there are numerous reasonably priced point and shoot digital packages that will return surprisingly good pictures without costing the earth.

 

[DesertEagle]

If I were using the MX-10, I would probably use Fuji Superia 200 print film. Fuji has a 4th color layer in their films. I like the way it looks underwater.

For slides, use a "regular" 100 speed film. Avoid Velvia unless your instructor recommends it. It's too easy to underexpose.

I just did my last trip with slides. At home there are almost no labs that to E6. They all went out of business. I think it would be easier to find a nice minilab that will scan your print film at decent resolution and put it on a CD with your prints.

As far as enlarged prints from your slides, my favorites were prints called Ilfochromes. They are a lost art. The next best thing is a drum scan + light jet print (big money). In the Boston area, I use Newtonville Camera (you can mail stuff to them). They were one of a very few labs that has Ilford's super glossy polyester-based RA4 paper. It prints on a Fuji Frontier minilab. I think of it as Ilfochrome JR. It's only $8 for an 8x12 print.

My other advice is to just get a digicam, housing, wide angle lens and a Magic Filter. Skip the film altogether.

 

[joewr]

Hi,

My take is just a little different, but not much.

If you are going to be doing a lot of diving and photography, it is time to join the digiital revolution.

However, if you are going to want to use you MX, you may have some issues. First and foremost will be how water-tight your camera is. At a minimum, if you left your O-rings on the camera, you need to remove them, clean the surfaces and buy some new O-rings (with which you should get some silicon grease). Use the new O-rings/grease. Actually, if you want to get very technical, you should send the camera out for replacement of the "internal" O-rings, but that will likely cost at least $100. You are taking some risk if you do not, but the risk is only some film and a nearly obsolete camera (No offense meant).

Now, for filrm: I recommend isomething like Kodacolor iso 400 because it is more forgiving in regard to depth of field. And I think it will make just fine enlargements. This is a print film and can be developed easily at photo stores such a Ritz, shops like Walmart, etc.

These same outfits can put your prints on a CD.

I hope this helps...

joewr

 

[herman]

Just a thought but why use slides at all. I know the benefits BUT considering the cost of film, processing and mounting, print film would be a lot less expensive. Most places that do film printing these days offer digital scan CD for just a few dollars. If it were me, I would use good quality print film, have it processed but not have prints made, the printing is most of the cost. Instead I would have a picture CD made of the negatives. When I was shooting an MX-10 I prefered Fuji film. It gave me richer colors than I got with Kodak.
I would also suggest you find a copy of "The New Guide to Sea and Sea". The book is out of print but there are quite a few copies around. It will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about the MX-10, it is well worth the money.

 

[joewr]

Just a thought but why use slides at all. I know the benefits BUT considering the cost of film, processing and mounting, print film would be a lot less expensive. Most places that do film printing these days offer digital scan CD for just a few dollars. If it were me, I would use good quality print film, have it processed but not have prints made, the printing is most of the cost. Instead I would have a picture CD made of the negatives. When I was shooting an MX-10 I prefered Fuji film. It gave me richer colors than I got with Kodak.
I would also suggest you find a copy of "The New Guide to Sea and Sea". The book is out of print but there are quite a few copies around. It will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about the MX-10, it is well worth the money.

Hi, Herman!

I wonder if all my old uw film photography books will be fodder for eBay someday? I was a Nikonos user, but got a cc of "The New Guide....." because it was a great guide. At any rate, I have not checked, but I would guess that Alibris has cc's for sale....

joewr

 

[herman]

Lots of dive shops still have leftover copies as well. I keep mine as reference and to help answer the ocasional MX-10 question. Digital or film, most of what is talked about is still valid.

 

[shark_tamer]

:14: Wanna get slides with " punch " ....

Depending on where you buy your negs, you might have difficulty getting the one I suggest. Pro lab still carry it up here in Montréal. A bit more expensive but absolutly worth the extra buck ( expect 7,00$ to 9,00$ for 36 exposures, process not included )

AGFA RSXII professional film ( either 50 or 100 asa )....grain almost inexistant, vivid colors.

*** I suggest you try burning a couple of rolls before you take 20 rolls on your next trip. This film has no latitude.

This is the film I use when I do commercial shoots ... I use 50 asa, exposed at 50 asa, exposed -1/2f, no correction at developpement.

I have a Nikon Coolscan at home to digitalize and burn CD's. Hand made prints done at pro lab.