Shutter lag in SD770 IS

[Hatul]

I recently got the SD770 IS with underwater housing and have a problem with the long time from pressing the shutter release to when the flash fires and the picture is taken. It seems to be worse than my previous Fuji F30.

What are the optimal settings on this camera to shorten this lag as much as possible?

Adam

 

[Reefwalker]

Hi Adam
Firstly use the camera in Manual, this will allow you to override the auto exposure in the SD770IS, by utilising the exposure compensation controls (+/-). Then you need to change the following settings:
- Set AF Frame to Centre, this way the camera doesn't have to think about where to focus, it looks for areas of contrast in the centre area to focus on.
- Digital Zoom OFF
- AF assist beam OFF
- IS Mode OFF
- Macro ON (for anything up to 1.5 metres from the camera)
- Flash ON (for close-up pics) - Flash OFF for natural light photos.
- ISO 100 (for close ups with strobe) - ISO 200 or 400 for Natural Light Photos.
- White Balance "Sunny" for Flash photos, or "Custom One Push" for Natural Light photos, (aim the camera at a white or grey 'slate' to set White Balance at the depth you are taking a photo at).
- My Colours OFF
Now with all these set you need to approach your subject and place an area with some detail that has contrast in the centre focus area, slightly depress the shutter button and wait until the focus square turns green (and the green light near the camera viewfinder is steady green- NOT flashing). When it is, depress fully the shutter button, and the photo will be taken almost immediately.
You can hold the focus locked for as long as you wish, by holding the shutter half depressed. Once it is focused you can recompose the photo, but don't move closer or further away from the subject - otherwise it may be out of focus in the photo.
I hope this helps.

 

[Hatul]

Hi Adam
Firstly use the camera in Manual, this will allow you to override the auto exposure in the SD770IS, by utilising the exposure compensation controls (+/-). Then you need to change the following settings:
- Set AF Frame to Centre, this way the camera doesn't have to think about where to focus, it looks for areas of contrast in the centre area to focus on.
- Digital Zoom OFF
- AF assist beam OFF
- IS Mode OFF
- Macro ON (for anything up to 1.5 metres from the camera)
- Flash ON (for close-up pics) - Flash OFF for natural light photos.
- ISO 100 (for close ups with strobe) - ISO 200 or 400 for Natural Light Photos.
- White Balance "Sunny" for Flash photos, or "Custom One Push" for Natural Light photos, (aim the camera at a white or grey 'slate' to set White Balance at the depth you are taking a photo at).
- My Colours OFF
Now with all these set you need to approach your subject and place an area with some detail that has contrast in the centre focus area, slightly depress the shutter button and wait until the focus square turns green (and the green light near the camera viewfinder is steady green- NOT flashing). When it is, depress fully the shutter button, and the photo will be taken almost immediately.
You can hold the focus locked for as long as you wish, by holding the shutter half depressed. Once it is focused you can recompose the photo, but don't move closer or further away from the subject - otherwise it may be out of focus in the photo.
I hope this helps.

I thought the IS would help with camera motion, which is a major problem when diving. Also I've been using the underwater scene mode for color compensation?

Adam

 

[Reefwalker]

Hi Adam
IS won't help too much if your moving while taking photos u/w, the first rule of learning u/w photography is too get steady. IS increase the time between shutter press and shutter release.
The Underwater scene mode won't give you as quick a shutter release as manual settings, because the camera still needs to check exposure, focus, white balance, etc..
The settings I gave you will work best, others will still work ok, but not as fast, which is what you asked.