Review Seaskin Nova drysuit

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Both of those gloves are "unlined". Lining refers to having a bonded in thermal/fluff layer that is not removable. The thin bonded-on reinforcement polyester is not called a "liner". The thinner 620 glove is a mere double dip PVC and the thicker 620 a triple dipped PVC.

showa 620 gloves.png
Showa 660.png

Your glove issues may be with the use of PVC stickiness. Try using silicone grease in the ring groove area and on the outer PVC where it wraps over over the blue ring.
I did the first but not the second. I'll try that trick when I replace the gloves.
 
Why not just use unlined gloves with liners? I really can't find any advantage to gloves with liners. They stink after a while and take longer to wash / dry.
I originally used...um...unlined gloves of some sort... *checks logbook* A 4th Element glove of some kind, that's all the info I've got. They were thick latex, IIRC. Dexterity was great, but the gloves themselves weren't exactly robust.

I started looking to change, so I read other people's posts to find that most everybody recommended Showa 660 Smurf gloves, but I was looking for something less...blue. Ugh. And hopefully more dexterity-friendly. So I got myself a pair of 620s and used them for a year-plus before I nicked one on jagged metal. They were pretty great.

Regarding stanky fingahs, I've not had troubles. I mostly dive freshwater, always wear a Xerotherm underglove, and turn the drygloves halfway inside-out to dry. I don't need to wash the gloves because they never get all crudded up in the first place, and then the mesh keeps the fingers standing open, so everything gets aired out nicely by the next weekend.
 
View attachment 836712View attachment 836713

I did the first but not the second. I'll try that trick when I replace the gloves.
Can't be so literal in the way Showa describes their gloves vs. the intent of what Rolock describes.

The very thin "linings" in those gloves are only there to add some reinforcement and/or puncture resistance. Those are not the type of permanently affixed insulating liner which Rolock is referencing where the black glove ring would be used. The black ring configuration is meant to account for the extra thickness of gloves with an affixed insulating liner that is much thicker than the thin reinforcement lining.
 
I tried the Rolock 90 blue rings with two types of lined gloves: Showa 620 (orange) and 660 (blue).

With the 620s, the fit is OK-not-great; the ring is super-snug and a real SOB to remove.

With the 660s, the fit is sucktastic; the ring is permanently attached. I honestly think I'mma have to cut the glove out when it finally tears. In the meantime, if you see a guy with mismatched orange-and-blue drygloves, you'll know it's me.

Anyone want to send me their unwanted pair of black rings? I'll pay postage and give them a good home.
I may have thrown those black rings out, I can’t find them.
 
Today is supposed to be the day. UPS still says delivery expected by 7:30pm, but the tracker still has it in Maryland. I won’t be home from work until late anyway. I paid the import fees online (roughly $75 on £1,250 of just drysuit), so that they could hopefully leave it without a signature. We’ll see!
 

Back
Top Bottom