Sealing electronics

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eod

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Malmö, Sweden
I have an idea about making my own dive logger/computer/whatever. Therefore I'm wondering if someone here has any ideas of what to put the electronics into. It must be waterproof, thats for sure, and have a window for the display. Otherwise I don't care that much how it looks.
 
consider some thick plexi-glass with glued seems :confused:

just like a camera housing but much smaller of course.

alhpa tests would not include live electronics of course, but perhaps just a napkin or something that will show immediately if there is a leak.

get your latches and rubber seals worked out. take a look at the underwater housing to get an idea of how to set it up.

enjoy and have fun with the experiments
 
eod once bubbled...
I have an idea about making my own dive logger/computer/whatever. Therefore I'm wondering if someone here has any ideas of what to put the electronics into. It must be waterproof, thats for sure, and have a window for the display. Otherwise I don't care that much how it looks.

I made one in the 1980's when I was going to computer school. Building the computer and software was easy but wrapping it into something that didn't work like a big antenna wasn't (show you how good I was at electronics). It was just as sensitive for the magnetic field caused by my body as it was for the transducer. LOL. Anyway, mine never made it off the bench. Probably a good thing anyway. I would have been about the size of a loaf of bread and it didn't have a display, only a row of LED's showing how close to the NDL you were. Oh well. It was good enough for a B+. :) The guy with the damned ball chasing robot got the A. :)

R..
 
Plexi or some high density plastic should work. You can buy a kit for welding plastic for your seams. Harbor frieght has the welding set-up for cheap. I don't know how much preasure the seams will take, but it is often used to make plastic holding tanks. I have had some items custom made for me this way they seam to last longer and look better than glue joints.

http://hometown.aol.com/newimageplastics/plasticweldingrod.html

http://order.harborfreight.com:9100/EasyAsk/harborfreight/results.jsp
 
A simple housing for electronics can me made from using a block of polycarbonate and drill a large hole through it with a hole saw. Then machine groves in each side around the hole for an o-ring to sit in. The drill 8 holes, (1 in each corner front and back) then attach polycarbonate or even acrylic would work to each side with screws.

Does that make sense?
 
I would be glad to help you on this project. I have been mulling this same idea in my head for several months. As far as a housing goes check into Velleman hobby boxes. You can get them rated for NEMA4 with Oring seals and the upper half can be opaque or translucent lexan. These should be safe to around 6atm. What are you using for your pressure transducer? Will this be an Air integrated unit?

Toe
 
I've looked at a DIY comp as well, for various reasons. I'd like integrated O2, diluent and PO2 receivers for a homebrew rebreather. I want it to track all of the important variables and help me to remember to surface when I'm getting near the limits on tank press, N2 load, O2 toxicity, etc. The two top-of-the-line comps do mostly what I want, but... $5K is a helluva lot of money when I have to trust someone else's programming! Jeez.

I don't want it to go brain-dead just 'cos I'm still running the same Nitrox mix that I ran last dive if I'm on tanks, and I don't want it to sulk if I have a serious problem and short-cut a deco stop. I want to be able to upload a dive log easily to my Palm Pilot via IR, optionally to a laptop.

It's probably a little more complicated than you guys are interested in, but we might be able to help each other out. Mine's gonna take a while....

I'll need to experiment with transmitters and recievers. From people I've watched, RF may not be ideal. I've seen 'em go into contortions trying to get their wrist unit to read the tank transmitter behind their head. Hmmm. Looked like they needed a lower frequency transmitter (a LOT lower). I may just give up and run a single unsealed or minimally sealed cable from the counterlung (where my electronics will sit) to a wrist/console module, but I'd really like to lose the extra line if it's reasonable. I hate all of the dangly little hoses, controls and monitors I see on some rebreathers.

You can find Erik Baker's VPM source code in both C and Fortran (what's that, Grampa?) out on the 'net. That ought to much of what you need for the N2 loading. Save your cash and don't buy Bruce's books or papers unless you find a Master's Thesis in math exciting. Erik & Eric can make a complicated subject simple enough that *I* can figure out the algorithm for it. Thanks, guys! It's refreshing to see that at least a couple of the folks in the field can write well.
 
The housing is not a big issue............just fooling around, I made one , first dive to 130ft....bone dry (I have access to CNC stuff :eyebrow: ). The real issue is switches.
I took apart my old Oceanic Sport dive puter. Those switches are something!!!! Very simple, I'm suprised they work. Just a rubber "stopper" over a plunger, over a tact switch...........very nice and very clean :crafty: .
NOW the problem..........where to get the rubber stopper. I'm goning to try the local dealer, but I'm not sure if they will be able to get any. Any one have any ideas?
Thanks,
DC
 
DepthCharge:
The real issue is switches.

I hate making holes in enclosures so whenever possible I try to use magnetic reed switches to operate lights & other gear.
Nowadays you can get some absurdly small & powerful magnets by dismantling scrap hard disk drives.
Sometimes I spread the reeds around the peripheral of the unit and put the magnet on a rotating bezel easily operated even with thick gloves.
 
miketsp:
I hate making holes in enclosures so whenever possible I try to use magnetic reed switches to operate lights & other gear.

I haven't found any reed switches that take more than 1 amp........sounds like alot, but not enough "head-room" for some apps..... at least I'd like a bit more :wink: . What kind of lights are you talking about..........dive lights?

miketsp:
Nowadays you can get some absurdly small & powerful magnets by dismantling scrap hard disk drives.
Sometimes I spread the reeds around the peripheral of the unit and put the magnet on a rotating bezel easily operated even with thick gloves.

That rotating bezel is a nice idea. I have Hall-effect switches on my RB. The only problem that I have is the condition of the maganets after just a few dives in saltH20. But I have had the unit for 3+ yrs and they ARE still working. Unfortunately with the Hall's, you also need other components.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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