Scubapro Tank valve rebuild kit/parts question

[jetracer]

I got this tank today and because it's an old tank (circa 1992), I decided to take apart the tank valve to check on the condition of the parts inside. The good news is that everything inside looks nice and dry with no signs of corrosion except for the outside screw that secures the knob to the valve shaft.

So far I can see that it can use all new o-rings. There are also a couple other parts that I would like to replace but have no idea what to call them so I took a few photos of the parts. I hope you guys can shed some lights on what these parts are and the availability of replacement parts or rebuild kits for this regulator.

This regular came on a Faber tank and has the Scubapro logo on it. Since the tank itself was made by Faber, I am suspecting that Scubapro had these valves OEM by a valve company who hopefully still makes parts for it.







Looks like it's time for a new burst disc just to be sure.....may be a higher pressure one?

The o-ring doesn't even look like an "O" anymore, defintely a goner I think, you guys agree?

Questoin: 1)The o-rings on these two parts are blue/green and orange. Can I replace them with regular Viton o-rings?
2) What is the name of this part (front row center in brass)?

After looking at these photos, can you anyone recognize the make and model or this valve? Was this valve built by Scubapro or just a rebranded valve by somebody else? Are parts/rebuild kits still available for it?

I am hoping that I can make this valve work since it's the original valve that came with the tank but if that's not possible or too costly then I will probably just buy a new valve for it.

Thanks as always for everyone's help!

 

[halocline]

That valve is in fine shape. I don't know the brand, but it looks very similar to some valves that came on my LP72s. The brass part is the seat assembly; you can find one of those and replace it, but it would probably work fine if you just put it back in. Tank valve seats last a very long time. The color coded o-rings are scubapro; for whatever reason, probably to simplify life for the techs, they use different colors to identify different o-rings. The burst disc probably should be replaced; the pressure indicated is the service pressure for the tank, not the burst pressure of the valve. That does not look like the original burst disc, BTW. if this is a standard LP tank steel tank, the burst disc should go at around 4000; that's the test pressure. I bet the one on there is a 4K disc. Yes you can use viton o-rings, use a 90 duro for the big tank neck o-ring and don't lubricate it, 70 duro or higher is fine for the other o-rings.

No reason to replace this valve.

 

[jetracer]

That valve is in fine shape. I don't know the brand, but it looks very similar to some valves that came on my LP72s. The brass part is the seat assembly; you can find one of those and replace it, but it would probably work fine if you just put it back in. Tank valve seats last a very long time. The color coded o-rings are scubapro; for whatever reason, probably to simplify life for the techs, they use different colors to identify different o-rings. The burst disc probably should be replaced; the pressure indicated is the service pressure for the tank, not the burst pressure of the valve. That does not look like the original burst disc, BTW. if this is a standard LP tank steel tank, the burst disc should go at around 4000; that's the test pressure. I bet the one on there is a 4K disc. Yes you can use viton o-rings, use a 90 duro for the big tank neck o-ring and don't lubricate it, 70 duro or higher is fine for the other o-rings.

No reason to replace this valve.

Thanks for all the info.

I think I will replace all the o-rings, burst disc and like you suggested, put it all back together and see if there's any leak after I get the tank back from hydro.


Questions, I noticed some (very little) black greasy substance in the thread of the valve seat. Should I put some kind of lubricant in the thread when I put it back together?

Thanks again.

 

[widget]

As above, valves, internally, are an inherently generic affair, there is simply insufficient numbers for manufacturers to make proprietary products.

Many brands in the past would simply buy their brass stamping's (bodies) from one manufacturer, the spindles from another, the plastic knob from another, the "plug and seat" (you asked for the name of the brass item) from another etc, then as they got orders would simply assemble in house as required, shouldn't take longer than two minutes a valve.

Looking at the valve its a simple single post A clamp valve, the parts are generic (ie) from different suppliers, and been around for years, indeed scuba valve design hasnt changed much in 50 years and those parts are still used in many valves today, so if you need spares they should be easy to find.

Scuba valves are simple devices, they work or they dont, there is very little grey area, so if the device was working before you stripped it, clean it up (as you have) replace the o rings, use a bit of grease on the plug and seat thread, the spindle o ring and put it all back together. It should be fine.

If it leaks at the handle, 90% of the time its the nylon seat in the plug, with time and over tightening of the valve the face gets worn and damaged and eventually leaks, in which case just replacing it will sort it out quickly and cheaply.

Regarding the burst disc, check it and replace as per Haloclines suggestions.

Other than that, the valve looks fine, well worth keeping and just replacing the basic service parts if needed.

 

[jetracer]

As above, valves, internally, are an inherently generic affair, there is simply insufficient numbers for manufacturers to make proprietary products.

Many brands in the past would simply buy their brass stamping's (bodies) from one manufacturer, the spindles from another, the plastic knob from another, the "plug and seat" (you asked for the name of the brass item) from another etc, then as they got orders would simply assemble in house as required, shouldn't take longer than two minutes a valve.

Looking at the valve its a simple single post A clamp valve, the parts are generic (ie) from different suppliers, and been around for years, indeed scuba valve design hasnt changed much in 50 years and those parts are still used in many valves today, so if you need spares they should be easy to find.

Scuba valves are simple devices, they work or they dont, there is very little grey area, so if the device was working before you stripped it, clean it up (as you have) replace the o rings, use a bit of grease on the plug and seat thread, the spindle o ring and put it all back together. It should be fine.

If it leaks at the handle, 90% of the time its the nylon seat in the plug, with time and over tightening of the valve the face gets worn and damaged and eventually leaks, in which case just replacing it will sort it out quickly and cheaply.

Regarding the burst disc, check it and replace as per Haloclines suggestions.

Other than that, the valve looks fine, well worth keeping and just replacing the basic service parts if needed.

Unfortunately the tank was close to empty so I was not able to test out the valve.

I'm glad to hear that the parts for my valve should be readily available if needed. Even though this is an old tank, it is in pretty good shape for a 1992 tank. I want to keep it original as much as I can by replacing all the serviceable parts.

Thanks for all the information and insight on these valves.

So far I have replaced all the internal o-rings and as soon as I get the tank back from hydro I will install the valve, get it filled and then do some testing underwater. Hopefully all will be ok.

BTW, what type of grease should I use on the plug and seat thread? Will silicone grease work? I will only be using this tank for air fills.


Thanks again.

 

[halocline]

1992 is not old for a steel tank.

 

[captain]

1992 is not old for a steel tank.

In human years it would be about 5 years old

 

[widget]

Unfortunately the tank was close to empty so I was not able to test out the valve.

I'm glad to hear that the parts for my valve should be readily available if needed. Even though this is an old tank, it is in pretty good shape for a 1992 tank. I want to keep it original as much as I can by replacing all the serviceable parts.

Thanks for all the information and insight on these valves.

So far I have replaced all the internal o-rings and as soon as I get the tank back from hydro I will install the valve, get it filled and then do some testing underwater. Hopefully all will be ok.

BTW, what type of grease should I use on the plug and seat thread? Will silicone grease work? I will only be using this tank for air fills.


Thanks again.

No Problem, this is not a high tech application (air use only) so a good quality silicone grease will be fine.

Dow Corning makes some great ones in smallish tubes if you can get it, otherwise you could get a good quality one from most marine shops locally I imagine.

 

[jetracer]

1992 is not old for a steel tank.

In human years it would be about 5 years old

It's like reverse dog years

 

[jetracer]

No Problem, this is not a high tech application (air use only) so a good quality silicone grease will be fine.

Dow Corning makes some great ones in smallish tubes if you can get it, otherwise you could get a good quality one from most marine shops locally I imagine.

This is the silicone grease that I have been using on a lot of things.

I ordered this from a company the specializes in parts and supplies for soft serve machines (frozen yogurt, soft ice cream etc).

Lubrifilm Plus Sanitary Food Machinery Lubricant 4 oz. Tube

I think it should work for the tank valve.