Scratched my WP DC 28 port!

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Pack--I knew you were getting too close! Is the scratch bad enough to actually affect your shots, especially underwater? I ask because what looks nasty on the surface may not be a problem down below. Canon would seem the only likely source but you might try an inquiry to: gray@uscamera .com ("Where everyone turns for parts" is their slogan, who knows?) Unless the scratch is seriously refracting light you might just have to let it be--and of course keep getting reminded. Good luck. // ww
 
No it does not seem to effect the pics at the moment. The pics I loaded on your thread were taken after the scratch but those "macro" shots were taken 500mm away due to the flash shadow.
I can actually focus the camera on the scratch while it is in the housing and it is viable under the water so I think it may cause problems on close up macro shot that I will take when I finaly get my lighting sussed.
 
fishedit.jpg


Well after a day of diving and photo taking I have decided I need to get this sorted. Although it didnt make a difference to the above pic it did to the close up shot below diagonally top right to bottom left.

scratch.jpg


So I tried an optometrist who wasnt really interested and also a glassier who was. He quoted $15 for a couple so I am going to try that out and see how it goes.

I have also emailed Canon NZ to see if they can get a replacement but as far as I know they dont even have the housing in stock yet so Im guessing the lens will be out of stock, very expensive and a very slow delivery time.
 
Canon NZ:
I regret this is not available as a spare parts, it comes as complete assembly of WP-DC28.
Packhorse:
So can you order another from Canon Japan or am I expected to throw away the housing and buy another?
CanonNZ:
Yes you have to buy another.

*******!

Edit: I find it amussing that we can have a member called Warmwater wank but I can't use the word *******. So its OK top wank but not OK to be a w@nker. :rofl3:
 
Pack--Not sure I see the scratch in bottom pic as described. While the G10 can focus 1cm from lens in wideangle (28mm equivalent end) it focuses well beyond that (300mm?) when zoomed out. I wouldn't think you would use wa to shoot macro, due to flash problems this close, consequently the scratch wouldn't be in focus. (Just like dust etc. on a lens filter isn't in focus.) Serious backlighting could cause some diffraction I suppose but not likely underwater. If you aren't shooting macro it would be even less likely to show.

To counter all this, you get to see the scratched surface whenever you grab the case to use. Painful reminder. Even if some clown :eyebrow: far away tells you "Why worry?" if you really could get it dealt w/ or reduced by a glassier (say what?) for 15 whatever kinda bucks, why not? Buying a replacement glass (which now seems unlikely) and hoping that after removing & reinstalling there are no leakgage problems, well--I dunno. I think personally that would be on my mind more than the scratch. Question: if you shoot a white wall or bright sky etc. in macro (on manual focus) do you see it? That might help with your decision. Continued good luck on this! // ww

ps--When I signed up on SB I meant to use wonk and never paid attention to it--until someone on Phillipine Divers pointed it out later. I guess if the mods or someone wants to toss me out over it, well--what the ****, eh?
 
I guess I could work around it as you described but seeing it annoys the crap out of me. And really I want the camera and housing to work to its full potential. I am working on a lighting system that will allow close up macro shots of 100mm or less and I know in these types of shots the scratch will show up like dog bollocks.

Sorry about the comments on the swear filter. I just dislike swear filters. I think they are a waste of time and restricts freedom of expression.
 
Well I managed to get a new lens cut and it is now fitted. I will give it a pressure test when I can.
But now I am worried about the strength of the glass. I was told if it was toughened it would distort the glass and that the original piece was more than likely not toughened.

Does anyone know if the original glass would be toughened?

The replacement is not anti reflective coated either but I can live with that.
 
Pack: "Toughened"--do you mean "tempered"? I know here in the states they can't sell masks etc. unless the glass is tempered to help prevent shattered pieces (hard on the eyes I guess...). Tempered glass is usually identified w/ a T. (But who would want that showing up in all their shots? Ok, other than someone named Tom.) The pressure test makes sense of course but any way to compare thickness to the old glass? If it weren't as thick then flexing (and breaking the seal) might be a concern. // ww
 

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