Salvo 21 watt HID

[Jimmer]

I had pretty much decided that I was going to end up with a 10 watt HID this summer, but my "tech LDS" put their Salvo 21/10.4 amp HID on blowout, which just happens to be the light I really wanted...so I bit the bullet and had them put one on layaway for me to pick up next month. Anyway, I know there are some specific ways to handle HID lights, but I dont know much about them at all. So could the experts please give me some advice, things to look out for, things to avoid when it comes to handling/charging/storing the light?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[Divin'Papaw]

What kind of battery? That's the key component that needs to be handled differently based upon the type of battery.

As far as the light head, get a koozie to put over the head. Keep it on, especially while on the boat, until you're ready to splash. That helps prevent any accidental damage.

Also, don't run the bulb dry for very long at all. They put out alot of head and they bulb will melt the base where it plugs into the light head. They are designed to be operated in the water where the heat is easily dissipated.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

Bulbs are expensive and fragile so:

1. Don't drop or bang the kight head around
2. The light has to warm up 4-5 minutes before you can turn it off,
3. Once turned off, you have to let it cool 4-5 minutes before turning it back on
4, Basically turn it on at the beginning of the dive and leavce it on.

An NiMH battery pack will need to be cycled 5-6 times to achieve the maximum burn time. Run the light with the head in a bucket of water either per the burn schedule in the manual or until the light starts to flicker, then let the battery cool then recharge and repeat.

Store it dry and with the battery either out or reversed in the cannister so that it can not accidently light and create a fire producing death ray in the dive bag.

 

[Jimmer]

Hi Jim, it's the Li Ion battery in this one.

 

[dab]

Salvo makes a great light and the 21W HID is superb. You will love it and it is a much better choice than the 10W if you do any wreck diving at all. They are very robust -- just use ommon sense, protect it well when out of the water and follow the instructions when it omes to the battery and charging. Congratulations on a great light.

 

[Jimmer]

Thanks Dab. Virtually all my diving is wreck diving, all external right now, but I will be getting wreck pen. certified in the future, so I figured the fairly small bump in price to the 21 watt was a good move now, rather than a big bump down the road when I find out that 10 watts isn't enough.

 

[Divin'Papaw]

Hi Jim, it's the Li Ion battery in this one.

That's what I have. I have the 35W Salvo. Based upon my research, here's a procedure I've developed that works great for me. YMMV.

1. NEVER store it full. I typically store mine between 40% and 60% charged. I easily keep track of that with burntime. I don't religiously get it into that range, but I don't store it full nor empty. The longer I'm going to be storing it, the more effort I take to get it into that sweet spot.
2. I wrap it in a paper towel inside of a ziplock bag and keep it in the fridge.
3. I charge it 1-2 days before I'm going to use it.
4. I don't ever store it in the heat. That's one of the key killers of Li-Ion batteries.

These steps will help to promote long life of the battery. Here are a couple of links I've used to learn more about Li-Ion battery use and storage:

Lithium-ion battery - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Salvo Diving Equipment - Knowledge

 

[Jimmer]

FYI I just spoke to the shop I got it through, and apparently I got the second last one. So if anyone is in the market for a Salvo 21/10.4 HID they have one left at $1099 CDN (approx. $900 USD), and a couple 35 watt Salvo's for $1450 CDN (approx. $1188 USD).

Welcome To DansDiveShop.ca

ask to speak to Matt, tell him Jim sent you.

 

[SparticleBrane]

Bulbs are expensive and fragile so:

1. Don't drop or bang the kight head around
2. The light has to warm up 4-5 minutes before you can turn it off,
3. Once turned off, you have to let it cool 4-5 minutes before turning it back on
4, Basically turn it on at the beginning of the dive and leavce it on.

An NiMH battery pack will need to be cycled 5-6 times to achieve the maximum burn time. Run the light with the head in a bucket of water either per the burn schedule in the manual or until the light starts to flicker, then let the battery cool then recharge and repeat.

Store it dry and with the battery either out or reversed in the cannister so that it can not accidently light and create a fire producing death ray in the dive bag.

Just FYI, while those apply to lights manufactured with Welch Allyn bulbs, they don't apply to those made with Brightstart bulbs (most Salvo HIDs and the latest batch of Explorer lights from Halcyon). You can hammer a nail into wood with the lighthead on those without breaking the bulb. Also, since they are digitally controlled, they can be switched on and off much faster than the older models with analog ballasts.

Note that I'm not advocating abusing your gear -- just saying it can take a bit more than what most people think. Even so, I always baby my light...

 

[Gombessa]

You can hammer a nail into wood with the lighthead on those without breaking the bulb.

My understanding is that Barry conducted the "nail test" using the old automotive brightstar bulb - the short, flat one with horizontal leads, which had inconsistent color and flicker, but was much tougher (sorry for the bad iphone pic):

I don't doubt that the current brightstar is far more robust than the W-A 18-24w bulb, but I don't know if I'd bet money on reproducing the hammer thing