S90 and newbie no strobe

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orenbvip

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Location
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Going on a 2 month trip. I bought an S90 and the Canon housing. I was planning on buying a strobe but cannot afford it in the end. So far I feel like the s90 is almost too much camera for me. before this I only used a Sd 870. Which I just put in UW mode and always shot in Macro and with flash on. I got pretty decent results:
18851_312347642470_504242470_4013915_4463973_n.jpg

18851_312347692470_504242470_4013921_6749829_n.jpg


What would be the best way to use my S90? Should I use my previous strategy? I don't know anything about any of the modes? UW? low light? or custom? or how to use the ring? Any info is greatly appreciated?
 
Certainly you will get more flexibility by using strobe - but you still can get decent results with internal flash (as you've shown with your pictures above) or natural light (RAW or manual WB).
Rather than using UW mode I prefer to use Manual mode or Av for slow moving object.
I'm not sure with Canon S90, but with G series, the TTL flash does not work on manual mode - so you have to set the internal flash in min, medium or max and play with the speed. For macro with shooting distance up to 20 cm, I will set iso 100, f8, 1/125 - 1/500. You can practice in the pool to get the feeling to control the camera.
 
I am new too, but have used my S95 with no strobe on about 5 dives. It was recommended to me to shoot in RAW instead of JPEG and use Canon's Digital Photo Professional (DPP) to edit WB. I really like Canon's DPP, very easy to use and I have gotten great photos even as deep as 60 feet. Looks like you've taken so nice photos with your SD870. Good luck and have fun.
 
I bought an Ikelite housing for my S90 and included in the housing package was a small manual with recommended settings. I have used these settings with success and as a base for further experiments.

Mode: Av
White balance: Auto
Light Meetering: Center Weighted Avg
ISO: 80
Flash: On
AF assist beam: off
Red eye correction / red eyelamp: off
AF frame: Center
Servo AF: off
AF-point zoom: off

Make sure that you use a diffusor when using the internal flash. I am not familiar with the location of the diffusor on a Canon UW housing but the closer you can get it to the front of the lense the better.

The mantra of getting CLOSE to your subject is even more important if you shoot without a flash or with the internal flash.
 
On my last trip I used the S90 in Canon case without external strobe -- I wanted to travel light. It's limited without the external strobe, but you can get the job done with a compact setup.

Here are some hacks I use to compensate for no external flash:

For macro, you can use the internal strobe (from say 3 inch to 16 inch distance). Make sure to attach the strobe diffuser or the flash only lights the top of the image. For really close macro under say 3 inch working distance, the internal strobe will not be diffused enough, so turn it off and jack up the ISO. For wide or distance shots, turn off the strobe because it is too weak to do anything other than make backscatter. The internal flash drains the battery quickly so you may have to change it after only one dive, instead of 2-3.

ISO: Near the surface where there is plenty of light, I use ISO100, but deeper I set the ISO to 400.

Mode: I use Av setting at F2 and make sure the shutter speed ends up 1/100 or shorter to stop motion.

Image Size: I shoot Large + Raw, memory cards are cheap and RAW is better for post processing to restore white balance.

For white balance, the UW setting is useless, or maybe useful only to limited depth, so I use custom white balance on a white slate. I don't have to do this, I can always correct the RAW image, but sometimes it saves time to use the JPEG image with cropping/tweaking in Photoshop. Shooting RAW is definitely the way to go though, because you can usually rebalance the color with software. I don't like to spend a lot of time fussing with the photos like a pro would, so often I use the JPEG with the famous Mandrake Photoshop Plugin for red correction. But sometimes the JPEG is not corrected well so manipulating the RAW image is the way to go. Nice to have all options.

For examples I am attaching several pics showing a macro shot and a wide shot processed in three ways: JPEG uncorrected, JPEG corrected for red (Mandrake), and RAW corrected and converted to JPEG for posting. Not great photos, but you can see how the Mandrake plugin works for JPEGs, and what you can do with RAW. As you can see, the Mandrake plugin introduces false color to the airplane image, but I prefer it. On the other hand, the nudibranch couple processed from the RAW image looks more like the original colors I remember. Sometimes I prefer the Mandrake result, sometimes the RAW.

You'll definitely get better results with an external strobe, but these shots illustrate how you can manage without one.
 

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