S1 IS and Sunpak G flash

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scottg541

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Does anyone have written down what settings they use for macro's with the Canon S1 IS in combination with the Sunpak G flash?

My photo's are getting overexposed when the flash goes, i've even set the aperture to 1/1600! its pretty dark where I dive (pacific northwest) wonder if i need it to focus on flashlight beam or something.

tried the sunpak at a variety of settings, lowest to highest, and can only get a decent photo when 3 feet or more away, and vis usually doesn't lend to that. I get backscatter presumably from the built in flash.

I've seen some set ups on the board with an optical line which looks good, but hoping to shoot without getting too fancy.

Any settings posted on other threads? I couldn't find any.

Thanks,
Scott
 
I usually set the Sunpak to the lowest power, and use around 1/200 and f5.6. Works well for me.

That said, I have an extension arm which allows me to place the strobe further.
 
Thanks Sprain,

What mode would you have that in then? "C"

anything special for ISO?

again, thanks
 
Can you turn off your built in flash? (Sorry, brain fart-now edited. You're slaving off your flash) You might have too much in the foreground if you're using both. You can tape over the front of your flash with black tape so the slave flashes off the edges.If you don't have an adjustable arm, build one or get one. The strobe will overwhelm your lighting needs if you're doing macros with the strobe mounted at camera distance.
 
M mode.

I don't turn off the built in flash, but I have a fibre optic cable, and there's a plastic thing (dunno what you call it) that blocks off the internal flash.

Larry C is right. Initially I only had the standard arm and most of the photos are quite blown out. The extension arm really helps, and can let you have a better placement of the light.

I never change my ISO settings. Always 50.
 
I had problems with my first Sunpak in that the intensity knob did not work. Mine was stuck on low power, maybe yours is stuck on high. If you can change the intensity, the next question is are you using the diffuser? If you are, the next question is where are you pointing the strobe? The strobe on the original handle will be bright and not much more help than the internal flash for backscatter. Here's a thread about how I extended my arm for my Oly:

http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=129541
 
Without discussing water clarity, at least four other variables will control the light influence from of a strobe:

1. User defined (manual) strobe output, including the use or non-use of a diffuser
2. Distance from strobe to subject
3. ISO
4. Aperture

Shutter speed plays no role in influencing strobe power as long as you choose a speed slower than the fastest sync speed allowed by the camera (varies by camera model, but speeds up to 1/250 should be safe). Shutter speed will however influence background exposure........that is, any part of the composition that is not influenced by the strobe itself. The choice of 1/1600 sec will "clip" most strobe outputs, especially if a full dump is dialed in.

Try this simple test on land. Place a camera in manual mode (not auto, not shutter priority, not aperture priority). Set the following three constants:

1. Choose an object to photograph in a dimly lit room. Aim your camera lens and the strobe at the subject. Maintain the same distance from lens to subject and from strobe to subject for each image capture (not to confuse, but the lens to subject distance can vary from the strobe to subject distance......but each distance must remain constant for this series of captures). I would choose a distance of at least five feet considering light travels much easier through air than water. Therefore a longer than "normal" distance from strobe to subject should be chosen for this practice test.

2. Set ISO to 100 (or any other constant).

3. Set strobe to any output setting (I recommend the lowest output setting for this practice test).

If any of these settings are left on "auto", it will alter the test.

Now take a series of images, varying the aperture setting from wide open (f/2?) to the smallest opening available (f/8?) with your camera.

Upon review of the images, you should notice the pictures go from very light at wide open apertures (f/2) to very dark at the smaller aperture settings (such as f/8).

You may run other similar tests by choosing to vary any one of those four factors while constantly maintaining the levels of the remaining three. By doing so, you will learn what variables influence (settings) control strobe power.

Bottom line, it's not just the dial on the strobe.

As for underwater use in this particular case, I would recommend putting black electrical tape inside the housing, in front of the onboard flash (not on it!) , to block it's rays from influencing the composition and potentially creating backscatter, especially if no other blocking device (i.e. opaque diffuser) is standard on your particular housing. I would also recommend installing a fiber optic cable to insure that the signal your strobe receives is from your own camera's onboard flash and not from someone or something else. You may find an Epoque FOC works although I would ask questions first to whomever you choose to buy it from (I have no personal experience with the Epoque FOC).

btw:

With all other factors discussed remaining constant, for every foot of increased distance between strobe and subject underwater, your strobe loses half it's power. For every foot closer, your strobe potentially is twice as powerful!

Switching from ISO 100 to ISO 50 will reduce strobe influence by half. Going from ISO 100 to ISO 200 will effectively double the strobe's influence, but not double it's actual distance effectiveness.......iow, it's light will still not be effective underwater much past a travel distance of five feet or so from strobe to target due to the filtering effect water has on light, which remains constant despite the ISO setting. I'd always choose the lowest possible ISO setting for underwater use.

Installing the diffuser will broaden the beam and also reduce the strobe output. diffusers vary in their knockdown influence depending on opacity, but generally between -0.5 and -3.0 stops of light will be absorbed by the diffuser

The power level numbers found on a strobe are not necessarilly intuitive, especially if they represent Guide Numbers. If the numerical settings refer to guide numbers, a setting of 6 will definitely yield more light output than 3, but it does not represent a doubling of light. It is closer to 4 times more!

hth,
b
 
Thanks,

yep my problem is definitely having the strobe too close to the camera. I think I can figure that out... thanks for the link SeaYoda... I may look into something like that... do you find it better than the less flexible strobe arms...

Thanks Sprain, I'll try those settings in M mode... do you switch back to portrait mode or something when not using flash?

Scott
 
sprain:
I usually set the Sunpak to the lowest power, and use around 1/200 and f5.6. Works well for me.

That said, I have an extension arm which allows me to place the strobe further.

With regards to exposure results from strobe influence when the strobe was set to its lowest output as you stated, f/5.6 is still meaningless until you know how far away from the subject you are. In other words, unless you also list how far the strobe was from the target, knowing the aperture is of little use except for how much depth of field may have been captured.

Again, strobe performance is based on four factors. Listing any less than those four factors renders the subsequent information meaningless.

duplicating f/5.6 at 1/200 sec is also questionable unless ambient light conditions are similar.

for an explanation as to why, please read my previous post.
 
Thank you all for this information,

I'm new at this and i've gotten (for me) some good results without the strobe, your threads have motivated me to try to step up my photography to using some artificial light.

I'll try to absorb this information and try again, i'll post some photo's when I get it all together. I think the main thing is i was using the flash only a short distance from the camera. Can't wait to get out using some different light angles.

There's obviously much to learn, thanks again for your help with this.

Scott
 

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