retrofit SP MK20 to MK25?

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I just got a good deal on a MK25/250 on ebay. I have heard you can retrofit the MK20 to the MK25. I needto have it serviced anyway. Should I go ahead and have them make the change? What are the benefits or detriments of doing this? Thanks
 
Well with the retrofit you get limited (about 15 PSI) of external intermediate pressure adjustment...

There is no detriment to doing it other than cost of the kit...

ou could price it out first and then decide... If it is expensive I would apply the amount to something else though...

Jeff Lane
 
I've asked a dealer about it for both my Mk20s and he thinks its a waste of money. Says enough for me

MD
 
The adjustment on the Mk 25 is itself limited and you really gain nothing with upgrading a MK 20. It makes it potentially easier for a tech to adjust the IP on your reg but offers not advantage to you. To make a major IP change on either reg will still require disassembly and addition or substraction of shims.

I would not bother unless the tech is doing the upgrade for free.
 
There's a little more to the Mk25 upgrade than just the external adjustment. Namely, there are numerous changes to the Mk25 piston that address cold water suitability. If the upgrade were just the external adjustment, I would say skip it, but if you're worried about cold water performance, it might be worth the cost. It's hard to say if these changes work, but in cold water, it might provide an extra margin of safety.
 
There are some differneces outlined on the tech sheets from SP for the Mk 20 and 25 but, with the exception of a mirror polished piston stem, they involve plastic parts and pretty minor changes in preparation that should be done to a Mk 20 by the dealer at the next annnual service anyway without having to pay for a Mk 25 upgrade.

Also, based on my experience diving both a Mk 20 and a Mk 25 side by side in very cold conditions (upper 30's to mid 40's), and side by side with other divers with the same regs, I would submit there is really no difference in cold water performance between the Mk 20 or 25. Both do very well on low pressure tanks with someone with a good sac rate and both are more likely to freeflow with HP tanks even with a good sac rate.

SP is also currently recommending the IP be reduced to 125 psi (down from 140-145 psi on most Mk20/25's) and that the second stage be adjusted for a higher cracking effort to reduce the potential for freeze up in cold water.

Bascially this is pretty bogus as the lower IP reduces flow rate and reduces the heat transfer demands on the reg and eases the burden a bit on the ineffective TIS system which, in conjunction with the harder breathing second stage should reduce the potential for a freeze up slightly. But it all comes at the cost of your high performcance reg breathing like a rock.

A 125 psi IP is also hard to achieve in some regs as you often have problems getting the IP that low even with the shims and (on the Mk 25) the external adjustment unless you replace the mainspring with a lighter one.

My solution was to put the Mk 20 and 25 on the saftey tanks and go back to using my SPEC equipped Mk 10's for the back gas. Sad commentary on the last 15 years of progress at Scubapro.
 
Plastic parts or not, there are a few other changes that address cold water performance that won't get fixed at the next service (presumably with a new service kit). Of course, from what I've heard from various places, the changes really don't make a difference in most people's experiences. Looking at the bulletin, however, the upgraded piston is not included in the "upgrade" kit for the Mk20. So, it's not worth the cost to add the external adjustment for the convenience of the tech....

Also, I'm curious where you heard that the IP is to be lowered. Is there a bulletin I should be looking for?


DA Aquamaster once bubbled...
There are some differneces outlined on the tech sheets from SP for the Mk 20 and 25 but, with the exception of a mirror polished piston stem, they involve plastic parts and pretty minor changes in preparation that should be done to a Mk 20 by the dealer at the next annnual service anyway without having to pay for a Mk 25 upgrade.

Also, based on my experience diving both a Mk 20 and a Mk 25 side by side in very cold conditions (upper 30's to mid 40's), and side by side with other divers with the same regs, I would submit there is really no difference in cold water performance between the Mk 20 or 25. Both do very well on low pressure tanks with someone with a good sac rate and both are more likely to freeflow with HP tanks even with a good sac rate.

SP is also currently recommending the IP be reduced to 125 psi (down from 140-145 psi on most Mk20/25's) and that the second stage be adjusted for a higher cracking effort to reduce the potential for freeze up in cold water.

Bascially this is pretty bogus as the lower IP reduces flow rate and reduces the heat transfer demands on the reg and eases the burden a bit on the ineffective TIS system which, in conjunction with the harder breathing second stage should reduce the potential for a freeze up slightly. But it all comes at the cost of your high performcance reg breathing like a rock.

A 125 psi IP is also hard to achieve in some regs as you often have problems getting the IP that low even with the shims and (on the Mk 25) the external adjustment unless you replace the mainspring with a lighter one.

My solution was to put the Mk 20 and 25 on the saftey tanks and go back to using my SPEC equipped Mk 10's for the back gas. Sad commentary on the last 15 years of progress at Scubapro.
 
It was a verbal suggestion to our local dealer, who is quite annoyed at his MK 25 AF consistently freezing up, from the SP rep (after the reps return from "testing" regs in costa rica or somehwere similarly warm.) I don't think anything has come out in writing yet.

My thought is that SP should come up here and test their regs. :)
 
IP 145PSI, 3300 tank pressure, SAC rate of a raging rhino, water temps 38-45 degrees...ZERO free flows.

I have also seen probably a hundred other divers (OK maybe 50) doing numerous dives with the same rig....ZERO free-flows.

I think we've narrowed it down to high moisture content in the air you guys breathe.

If it were that bad, we'd have it happening all over the place around here.
 

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