For the past few years I've been using US 5 cent nickels instead of lead as a soft dive weight. I often hear that we have to use lead in diving because all other options are too expensive (stainless, tungsten, gold, platinum, etc). But cupronickel (the alloy used for nickels) has a long history in marine use as ship hulls and impellers.
How I use them: Nickels work like a nontoxic version of lead shot, so I use them in a zipper belt (as in picture) or in the velcro soft pockets used for lead shot (you can new buy empty ones online). I find that I can easily fit 4 lbs of nickels into a 4 lb shot bag, so they take up a similar volume. For reference, 1 lb of nickels is about 91 nickels. I've even made a handy calculator to estimate the number of coins (US and global) and their approximate value in USD for any weight you want.
Some questions and answers people have asked about using nickels:
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Q: Cupronickel is not as dense as lead, so can it be used as a dive weight?
Yes, cupronickel can be used. It isn't quite a heavy as lead, but if we calculate the buoyant weight we see they are pretty similar.
For 1 pound of lead (specific gravity 11.34):
Q:There is no way I'm fitting 1000 nickels into my BCD, how could that ever work?
Have you tried? Soft pouches of nickels are not much bigger than soft pouches of lead. This is in part because coins are bigger disks than shot (the geometry means better space filling), and in part because the density is still high. If you can fit 11 pounds of lead shot sacks, you can fit 1000 nickels (11 lbs).
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Q: How much does cupronickel cost vs lead?
In some sense cupronickel is free. If I "buy" 4 lbs of nickels it means I need 363 nickels at $18.15. But using those nickels does not impact their value so I can spend them again later. They retain 100% of their value.
In contrast a 4 lb lead weight may cost ~$20, is toxic, and has little to no resale value (maybe even a toxic waste handling fee).
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Q: I've seen copper corrode, but not lead, so does this mean that lead is more stable in water?
Unfortunately not. The difference is that lead corrosion is white or clear, so doesn't make as much of a visual impact. But just because we don't see it clearly doesn't mean it isn't happening. Look at an old dive weight and you will see ample evidence of corrosion.
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Q: Isn't copper toxic to aquatic life?
Yes, copper ions are toxic. Actually nickel ions are even more toxic, but neither is as toxic as lead. As a case in point, consider the WHO drinking water standards:
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Q: I've been using lead for years, and I'm fine, why should I care?
Lead exposure is a slow and progressive issue. There is no positive effect of lead ingestion and a huge literature of negative impacts from neurological, cognitive, and reproductive harm. Kind of like smoking and asbestos--we know those are harmful but they are not a death warrant. The question is if we have viable alternatives, and we do.
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Q: I only dive a few times a year and I just rent my weights, so why should I care?
Lower lead use does lead to lower exposure, that is true. But you are still exposing yourself, your suit, and your equipment to lead which will come home with you. Also the dive operator who handles the weight every day has a much higher exposure rate.
Furthermore, the whole point of a dive is to drop the weight if you are in an emergency. If you drop a dive weight you are creating a point source of lead contamination in, most often, a fragile reef ecology.
Choosing lead not only impacts you.
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Q: I've heard that coins kill fish, that is why we don't throw pennies into wishing wells. Won't wearing coins kill fish?
That depends the coin, and a wishing well with fish has recirculated water that magnifies any contamination. Lead is more toxic to fish than nickel or copper. Cupronickel corrodes very slowly in water, while lead is faster. Given that, shifting to cupronickel (nickel coins), would be a more fish friendly option.
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Q: Plastic coated lead weights are fine as they contain the lead, so why not just use those?
Plastic coated lead still has problems. The plastic coat often has a vent hole, or even if not, the coat will, with time, develop cracks. Those holes and cracks will allow water intrusion behind the plastic against the lead. This water can't be rinsed off easily so will stand on the weight for much longer than an uncoated weight. This means more time for the metal to corrode. That corrosion will then leach out on the next dive.
Also the lifecycle problems of lead are not removed by coating it in plastic. In some cases, it makes the lifecycle harder in that many recyclers will not take a plastic coated weight because it is a mixed waste.
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Q: I don't live or dive in the US, so are there other coins I can use?
Yes! Many countries have cupronickel coins (see the coin calculator for different currencies). Fortunately, many more tropical countries use cupronickel as coinage expressly because it is resistant to corrosion and salt spray.
Other coins like the Australian dollar and two dollar coins work well too (aluminum bronze). Avoid coins that are bi-metallic and/or contain zinc or steel--those will corrode more quickly than we would like.
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Q: Nah, why bother with all of this when I can just dive and recover old fishing lures, wheel weights, and junked lead belt weights, melt them down and make shiny new free lead weights?
This is a bad idea. Lead in the environment is bad, but smelting your own lead is a really bad idea. When you melt lead, you can easily expose yourself, family, and environment to really toxic lead fumes. That and you are making your space into a superfund site.
Instead, go to the bank and get a bag of nickels instead.
How I use them: Nickels work like a nontoxic version of lead shot, so I use them in a zipper belt (as in picture) or in the velcro soft pockets used for lead shot (you can new buy empty ones online). I find that I can easily fit 4 lbs of nickels into a 4 lb shot bag, so they take up a similar volume. For reference, 1 lb of nickels is about 91 nickels. I've even made a handy calculator to estimate the number of coins (US and global) and their approximate value in USD for any weight you want.
Some questions and answers people have asked about using nickels:
-------
Q: Cupronickel is not as dense as lead, so can it be used as a dive weight?
Yes, cupronickel can be used. It isn't quite a heavy as lead, but if we calculate the buoyant weight we see they are pretty similar.
For 1 pound of lead (specific gravity 11.34):
- In fresh water: 0.912 lbs
- In salt water: 0.910 lbs
- In fresh water: 0.888 lbs
- In salt water: 0.885 lbs
- 1.5 in^3 of lead
- 2.0 in^3 of cupronickel
Q:There is no way I'm fitting 1000 nickels into my BCD, how could that ever work?
Have you tried? Soft pouches of nickels are not much bigger than soft pouches of lead. This is in part because coins are bigger disks than shot (the geometry means better space filling), and in part because the density is still high. If you can fit 11 pounds of lead shot sacks, you can fit 1000 nickels (11 lbs).
--------
Q: How much does cupronickel cost vs lead?
In some sense cupronickel is free. If I "buy" 4 lbs of nickels it means I need 363 nickels at $18.15. But using those nickels does not impact their value so I can spend them again later. They retain 100% of their value.
In contrast a 4 lb lead weight may cost ~$20, is toxic, and has little to no resale value (maybe even a toxic waste handling fee).
--------
Q: I've seen copper corrode, but not lead, so does this mean that lead is more stable in water?
Unfortunately not. The difference is that lead corrosion is white or clear, so doesn't make as much of a visual impact. But just because we don't see it clearly doesn't mean it isn't happening. Look at an old dive weight and you will see ample evidence of corrosion.
-----------
Q: Isn't copper toxic to aquatic life?
Yes, copper ions are toxic. Actually nickel ions are even more toxic, but neither is as toxic as lead. As a case in point, consider the WHO drinking water standards:
- Lead: <10 µg/L, with goal of 0.
- Nickel: < 70 µg/L
- Copper: <2000µg/L
------
Q: I've been using lead for years, and I'm fine, why should I care?
Lead exposure is a slow and progressive issue. There is no positive effect of lead ingestion and a huge literature of negative impacts from neurological, cognitive, and reproductive harm. Kind of like smoking and asbestos--we know those are harmful but they are not a death warrant. The question is if we have viable alternatives, and we do.
------
Q: I only dive a few times a year and I just rent my weights, so why should I care?
Lower lead use does lead to lower exposure, that is true. But you are still exposing yourself, your suit, and your equipment to lead which will come home with you. Also the dive operator who handles the weight every day has a much higher exposure rate.
Furthermore, the whole point of a dive is to drop the weight if you are in an emergency. If you drop a dive weight you are creating a point source of lead contamination in, most often, a fragile reef ecology.
Choosing lead not only impacts you.
------
Q: I've heard that coins kill fish, that is why we don't throw pennies into wishing wells. Won't wearing coins kill fish?
That depends the coin, and a wishing well with fish has recirculated water that magnifies any contamination. Lead is more toxic to fish than nickel or copper. Cupronickel corrodes very slowly in water, while lead is faster. Given that, shifting to cupronickel (nickel coins), would be a more fish friendly option.
----
Q: Plastic coated lead weights are fine as they contain the lead, so why not just use those?
Plastic coated lead still has problems. The plastic coat often has a vent hole, or even if not, the coat will, with time, develop cracks. Those holes and cracks will allow water intrusion behind the plastic against the lead. This water can't be rinsed off easily so will stand on the weight for much longer than an uncoated weight. This means more time for the metal to corrode. That corrosion will then leach out on the next dive.
Also the lifecycle problems of lead are not removed by coating it in plastic. In some cases, it makes the lifecycle harder in that many recyclers will not take a plastic coated weight because it is a mixed waste.
-----
Q: I don't live or dive in the US, so are there other coins I can use?
Yes! Many countries have cupronickel coins (see the coin calculator for different currencies). Fortunately, many more tropical countries use cupronickel as coinage expressly because it is resistant to corrosion and salt spray.
Other coins like the Australian dollar and two dollar coins work well too (aluminum bronze). Avoid coins that are bi-metallic and/or contain zinc or steel--those will corrode more quickly than we would like.
-----
Q: Nah, why bother with all of this when I can just dive and recover old fishing lures, wheel weights, and junked lead belt weights, melt them down and make shiny new free lead weights?
This is a bad idea. Lead in the environment is bad, but smelting your own lead is a really bad idea. When you melt lead, you can easily expose yourself, family, and environment to really toxic lead fumes. That and you are making your space into a superfund site.
Instead, go to the bank and get a bag of nickels instead.