Range of onboard flash unit of canon g12?

[farsidefan1]

How close do I have to be without a strobe? I have also heard that the strobe only adds about another foot or so.
Questions
1, Is the additional foot story true? (Note, I realize that the strobe, being moved off the camera gives a primary advantage of reduced backscatter and much better light along with filling in the dark corner that the onboard flash creates in closer shots).
2, Does a strobe like the inon s- 2000 coordinate with the manual control sets on the G 12?
Thalass, if you are reading this and laughing, I don't blame you, already the madness is setting in.

Thanks

 

[MauiScubaSteve]

You need to be close enough.

I would feel comfortable saying that after a few weeks of testing in Puget Sound (2 dives per day), I'm sure I could come up with a one foot measured "range" increase on at least one of the dives. I'm not sure I would feel comfortable making the dives.

PNW divers need dive lights on day dives. Hawaii divers can make night dives without dive lights.

I think the last Q might depend on the housing.

 

[daz88]

if you use the onboard flash, be sure to use the difusser and you won't get the dark area unless you're really close. (less than a foot) And if you are that close and get the dark area, just back out a bit and use the zoom on the camera to get closer. just experiment with it a little and you'll find the "sweet spot" for the flash. Very different in different waters. And if there's too much "stuff" floating in the water, just turn the flash off. (No worries about backscatter) Just be sure to set the WB. (and/or shoot in RAW and adjust it later)

 

[farsidefan1]

Thanks, I do all my diving in warm clear tropical waters (Hawaii is a bit cold but the manta dive was to die for). Those are the kind of conditions I was told that a strobe was only for to reach out an extra foot of range over the onboard flash. That is good information about the difusser. I may try it without a strobe next trip. I just don't want to reduce my diving fun and exploration by worrying about getting that perfect shot of some seahorse (whatever). I don't want to become less streamlined in the water (ok, those that know me don't laugh out loud too hard trying to imagine a streamlined me) and I don't want to become a lousey buddy for my wife. Sigh, oh the pain

 

[MauiScubaSteve]

So, you are familiar with the Kona Night Dive. Even if these are just small to medium size mantas I'd say that the strobe has way more than a foot extra range.

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Also, sometimes the backscatter is part of the story. The mantas are there because of the krill (backscatter).

By the way, that's only 1/4 or 1/2 power of an Ike SS200.

 

[farsidefan1]

On a related note is it worth using just one strobe? If I have to use 2 I won't use any. I'm only willing to put up with so much hassle and bulk to get better pics. In other words will one strobe make a huge difference over just the onboard built in flash on the g 12? Also I have seen a picture of a strobe which was just attached to the top of the housing instead of out there on a flexible arm. This seems less likely to avoid backsctter but having never used a strobe I don't know how much separation is needed.

 

[MauiScubaSteve]

Too bad there's no input from others with your camera, to show some onboard flash examples. :depressed:

The other photo guides I work with all use G11 & G12, and no arm, holding the strobe with the bare left hand. It's kind of funny for me 'cause the first photo/guide I ever met, in Key Largo, shot that way with his Nikonos V, and then nobody for a decade until this gang.

They all seem to be able to clip both pieces together, and then clip "it" off to a d-ring pretty darn quick when they need their hands.

In the new order of SB, I can not upload pictures to the gallery, but my new rig looks pretty much the same as the old rig; what was orange is now black and grey and the sensor "stalk" is less than half that tall now because the Recsea S95 pretty much hides behind the WAL.

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These two linked galleries below are full frame images, no cropping. The Florida shots are Nikonos V w/ Nikonos 20 mm; Helm's Canyon shots are Oly 5050/PT-015 w/ INON Type 2 WAL. Both are manual camera and strobe settings using single Ikelite SS200.

Florida - halemano's Photos | SmugMug

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Helm's Canyon - halemano's Photos | SmugMug

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[farsidefan1]

Great shots, especially that scorpion fish! Nice to see I don't have to haul around the double light outfit.