R108 Assembly Order

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Perfect example why one must learn how to service your own regs, its not rocket science and if your handy you can even make most of the tools needed to do your own. its not like you gotta guess as there are service manuals online you can get for free. No one cares more about your reg than you do. No one cares if it is performing high as opposed to just being in spec. Techs will often set your reg a bit tight to compensate for when the seat takes its set and may dribble a little air.if you can put together a kids swing set or a piece of furniture that comes in a box by following English directions written in China, you can probably service your own regs. buy an old one on the bay and tear into it, you'd be suprised how easy most regs are. Good luck....
 
I'm now at the point where I need some subject matter expert info about the missing washer. I'm willing to investigate metal or plastic. The vintage diagrams (at this point everything is vintage about this reg) says it ought to have a plastic washer under the nut (01-060-107). If there was a Tech Bulletin to update that washer, only the authorized ScubaPro techs have access to those. If there is a later diagram than 1988, I haven't found it. (I've looked at frogkick, too)

The orifice oring is another issue. The geniuses at Scubapro put a repair kit together (#11-254-045) for the G250 and say it also good for the 108 and 109 but they don't include the 293 orifice oring, just 132s. The LDS techs just cram a 132 in there because it sorta fits, but its not right.

Getting help at a LDS is frustrating, the techs that really know this stuff are disappearing. Most shops just want to sell me a new disposable reg. They don't want to deal with the liability issues that come with working on old gear with incomplete info. I suspect that's what happened with our MK3, they couldn't stop it from squeaking. They said the piston was worn-out and unavailable.
So I'm hoping to hear from the forum members that remember working on these classic regs 15 years ago, and knew how to keep them performing even when the parts kits were incomplete (or wrong).
That old knowledge ought to be out there. I can do this myself but there's no need for me to reinvent the wheel. If we capture some of that knowledge here, then other R108 users can benefit, too. That's why I documented my experience setting the spring preload.

BTW, I looked at the DoubleHose website, but the washer (or the nut) isn't listed. I will call.
 
If Bryan at VDH does not have it, PM me and for the price of shipping I'll get a nut and washer out to you. Bryan is a friend with a business, so you have to ask him first. BTW SP changed the material from metal, to plastic, and I think phenolic on several regulators. The AIR 2, R190, 108 (note no "R") and probably a few others. The different washers are interchangeable. One thing to remember is with the metal washer, install the rounded side toward the lever.

Edit #1 "The orifice oring is another issue." Use a -902 for the orifice.

Edit #2 VDH has an AIR 2 service kit that has the washer, nut, o-rings, and seat. You'll have a few parts left over, but for 10 bucks you're set.
Store | Vintage Double Hose
 
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Couv, I was hoping to hear from you. Thanks.

"BTW SP changed the material from metal, to plastic"

-Did you mean to say plastic to metal or did they actually go metal to plastic/phenolic as an improvement?
-If plastic is the right material, does it need to be replaced periodically? Sure isn't in the modern kits!

"108 (note no "R")"
-Am I making a "newbie" mistake? I thought that the R108 and the 108 were the same reg.

-Is the -902 the generic oring number? what is the durometer/material?

-Finally, how do I PM on this site? Is that known as "starting a conversation"?
 
-Finally, how do I PM on this site? Is that known as "starting a conversation"?
Yes PM is starting a conversation. Under inbox, "start new conversation" enter the user name.

"108 (note no "R")"
-Am I making a "newbie" mistake? I thought that the R108 and the 108 were the same reg.
Some regs have a letter prefix, the 108 is not one of them. I believe the R/G etc prefixes, when used, have something to do with the designer.
 
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Reguardless of which washer they ended up with, go with a metal one. In this case, a hard surface against a hard surface will give you the best results. A plastic one will tend to wear more and possibly suffer from plastic deformation

The X903X (correction 902- thanks Couv) oring can be most any material but nitrile (Buna-N) is the most common one. The durometer is 70.
 
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Reguardless of which washer they ended up with, go with a metal one. In this case, a hard surface against a hard surface will give you the best results. A plastic one will tend to wear more and possibly suffer from plastic deformation

The 903 oring can be most any material but nitrile (Buna-N) is the most common one. The durometer is 70.

What ^^ he said, except for the typo on the o-ring which is a 902. If you use a metal washer, you can reuse it pretty much forever.
 
I don't want galvanic issues with the washer. So..
Are the 5-40 nuts (in the SP kits) chrome plated brass or SS? If SS which Grade?
Can I use a hardware store washer of matching metallurgy?
If someone has the correct OEM metal washer could you please mic it and let me know ID,OD and Thickness.
Hardware store washers vary a lot. (even if I could find 5-40)
And the plastic washer I think I have seems too thick at 0.7mm.
Good tip about the rounded side toward lever!
Thanks folks.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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