Darian Dunn
Guest
Anyone in the US have problems getting you tanks with the DIN connector filled?
Problems filling DIN?
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Most shops have either a DIN fill whip or an adapter. Most divers I know carry an adapter. Between the two it's rare to not be able to get a fill.
Rick
Rick
OP
Darian Dunn
Guest
Where do I buy a DIN adapter? How much? What model?
Here's one source:
http://www.northeastscubasupply.com/tanks/din_filler.html
Only the brass one fits 200 BAR valves (it also fits 300 BAR). You have to ask NESS to grid off the "teat" on the bottom. Problem is, where it tightens down it may be pointing in the wrong direction. So you have to play games and loosen it up and let the O ring hold in a position that you can get the fill whip on it.
Most shops that go this route have a couple of 'em so you can find at least one that tightens down in the correct position. I've been able to "fake it" and always fill my cylinders with my one.
The chrome one fits 300 BAR and swivels, so you can point it in any direction, so that solves the pointing problem. However, the large flange interferes with some pneumatic fillers. My LDS has my brass filler on "permanent" loan with them for this reason.
Of course all this messing around would be eliminated if the shops simply did the right thing and set up their whips for DIN and got one of these very simple yoke adapters:
http://www.northeastscubasupply.com/tanks/din_to_yoke.html
This is how I have my O2 whip setup; it's a DIN whip as default.
Roak
http://www.northeastscubasupply.com/tanks/din_filler.html
Only the brass one fits 200 BAR valves (it also fits 300 BAR). You have to ask NESS to grid off the "teat" on the bottom. Problem is, where it tightens down it may be pointing in the wrong direction. So you have to play games and loosen it up and let the O ring hold in a position that you can get the fill whip on it.
Most shops that go this route have a couple of 'em so you can find at least one that tightens down in the correct position. I've been able to "fake it" and always fill my cylinders with my one.
The chrome one fits 300 BAR and swivels, so you can point it in any direction, so that solves the pointing problem. However, the large flange interferes with some pneumatic fillers. My LDS has my brass filler on "permanent" loan with them for this reason.
Of course all this messing around would be eliminated if the shops simply did the right thing and set up their whips for DIN and got one of these very simple yoke adapters:
http://www.northeastscubasupply.com/tanks/din_to_yoke.html
This is how I have my O2 whip setup; it's a DIN whip as default.
Roak
No. Been using steel tanks with DIN valves for several years. I keep an adapter handy. As Roak says, some of the brass ones will point in the wrong direction, depending on your valve. My LDS actually ordered several adapters so I tried them all until I found one that pointed right! Most dive shops have their own adapters but I use mine the most at onsite fill stations.
Goldminer
Contributor
Darian:
Your post does not actually say whether you already own DIN valves and are looking for an adapter or whether you are thinking of buying DIN valves but are concerned about being able to get fills.
The other posts here give good advice about the adapters if you already have valves. If you haven't bought your valves yet, and have LP steel or Al tanks, consider getting DIN convertible valves. These valves have a tiny little insert about the size of 4 or 5 quarters stacked, which screws into the DIN fiiting on the valve with an allen key. When in, its a yoke valve and when out, its a DIN valve. You can get tanks with these filled anywhere in the US or Canada.
Your post does not actually say whether you already own DIN valves and are looking for an adapter or whether you are thinking of buying DIN valves but are concerned about being able to get fills.
The other posts here give good advice about the adapters if you already have valves. If you haven't bought your valves yet, and have LP steel or Al tanks, consider getting DIN convertible valves. These valves have a tiny little insert about the size of 4 or 5 quarters stacked, which screws into the DIN fiiting on the valve with an allen key. When in, its a yoke valve and when out, its a DIN valve. You can get tanks with these filled anywhere in the US or Canada.
You do not want to get the 200 BAR din convertable valves. The 300 Bar valves do not have the converter but they do allow you to screw your regulator fully into the valve body. The 200 BAR valves will leave the regulator with a number of threads still exposed. Certainly not as secure as the 200 BAR valves.
I only have the 200 BAR valves on my argon bottles because we have both yoke and DIN argon setups. At some point I will get rid of them as well.
omar
I only have the 200 BAR valves on my argon bottles because we have both yoke and DIN argon setups. At some point I will get rid of them as well.
omar
Here in the PNW DIN is the deal.... haven't found a place yet that can't fill them...
Of course the best fills still come from my garage and all the whips are DIN
Of course the best fills still come from my garage and all the whips are DIN
Goldminer
Contributor
I am curious to know why you think that because a couple of threads are exposed that they are not secure? I mean sure the more threads the better, but at 2640 psi they are not really insecure or unsafe. Or do you know something I haven't heard of yet?
I'm curious, because I'm thinking of buying some this year. DIN fills are not available in some of the places that I vacation and dive, but I have DIN regs.
The Chairman
Chairman of the Board
and I do believe that we came to the same conclusion... the weak point in a DIN regulator is how the DIN portion threads into the regulator itself. It is far thinner there, and in case of impact would break there and NOT in the tank valve. As for backing out, it just won't happen when pressure is applied. The initial reason for the difference in thread depth is for safety... they don't want you to put 200 bar regulators on a 300 bar tank. That being said, when was the last time anyone ran across a "Sport DIN" on a regulator??? It's really a non-issue today, although it is widely misunderstood.
Unless it is for some unspoken need to have all of your equipment conform or for some aesthetic reasons, I really can't see any structural reasons to not use the convertible 200 bar adapters.
BTW, 200 bar convertible valves, K valves and J valves are NOT available in the 7/8" thread (HP)... only in the 3/4" thread!!! By design, you can NOT put a 200 bar valve on a 300 bar tank. The converse is not true. The 300 bar valve IS available in a 3/4" thread.
And lest I mislead, I don't believe that UP will use or recommend ANYTHING but the 300 bar DIN. He can correct me if I am wrong in this.
Unless it is for some unspoken need to have all of your equipment conform or for some aesthetic reasons, I really can't see any structural reasons to not use the convertible 200 bar adapters.
BTW, 200 bar convertible valves, K valves and J valves are NOT available in the 7/8" thread (HP)... only in the 3/4" thread!!! By design, you can NOT put a 200 bar valve on a 300 bar tank. The converse is not true. The 300 bar valve IS available in a 3/4" thread.
And lest I mislead, I don't believe that UP will use or recommend ANYTHING but the 300 bar DIN. He can correct me if I am wrong in this.
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