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Crazy_J

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I find that technique very interesting. I was doing some experimenting with a white dive slate underwater and no filter as I lost my red filter on one of my dives and didn't bother to replace it. I was convinced the filter didn't make much of a difference. I don't understand why the gray slate. That link has some powerful information on it that may change my mind about red filters.
:shades:
 
I didn't find any references to using a built-in flash. My assumption is that the built-in flash would not be used when taking a photo using this technique. Does that sound right? I'll definitely have to try this one of these days. Sounds very interesting.

-Roman.
 
I agree with you notabob. The way I read the article was that he was using the red filter and the gray slate to set his white balance manually. I believe he set the WB with the filter on. At first I didn't understand the gray card to set the WB but that particular camera mfg. requires a gray card rather than a white one.
:shades:
 
Gilligan once bubbled...
At first I didn't understand the gray card to set the WB but that particular camera mfg. requires a gray card rather than a white one.
:shades:

Actually gray cards are comonly used for metering with cameras. In fact a number of photography books such as the "National Geographic Field Guide" series and the "KODAK Professional Photoguide" provide an 18% gray card with them for this purpose. 18% gray is what is called a mid tone and using it to meter can help to produce an image that is not overly dark or overly bright.

There's a couple other methods, such as metering off the back of a human hand, any good photo book that deals with exposure should have something dealing with this subject.

Steve
 
Crazy_J once bubbled...
I think that I am gonna have to try this, might be less expensive and "heavy" than lugging strobe around!

http://www.digideep.com/articles.php?id=2#3

Questions, Comments or Concerns? :wink:


Looking at the presented images, they all appear to have been taken in "very" to "moderately" shallow water. As such, not all of the Red has been absorbed by the water, so it is just a color balance issue which is nudged in the right direction by their techniques.

I'd like to see if it would work in 80fsw+ depths...I have my doubts.


-hh
 
PEIDiver once bubbled...

There's a couple other methods, such as metering off the back of a human hand, any good photo book that deals with exposure should have something dealing with this subject.

One such "good book" are the (not UW) photo technique books by John Shaw.

IIRC, his guidance is that the human hand is +1 stop open from 18% grey.

For his books at Amazon, try this URL: http://tinyurl.com/n1wl

For his website, URL: http://www.johnshawphoto.com/


-hh
 
I personally think that this technique could be good for little deep.
At deeps like 25-30m the red is almost absent.
 
-hh once bubbled...


One such "good book" are the (not UW) photo technique books by John Shaw.

IIRC, his guidance is that the human hand is +1 stop open from 18% grey.

For his books at Amazon, try this URL: http://tinyurl.com/n1wl

For his website, URL: http://www.johnshawphoto.com/


-hh

lol, this guy is basically my neighbor!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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