Playa is a fun place to stay. North of the docks are several smaller "resort type" places. Not real fancy, most don't have pools and large entertainment staffs, but they are on the beach, have all the chairs and umbrellas and such, and friendly staffs. Beach front restaurants and bars. In the evening they close the main street ( a block off the beach ) to vehicles and everybody heads up there. Almost a carnival atmosphere with all the shops and restaurants, street vendors (never have bought a street though)(but they'd probably sell it to you). South is mostly the larger typical resorts, some have made thier beaches private so I haven't wandered that way to much. Got chased out 'cause I didn't have an arm band.
Lots of smaller dive operations with tiny open boats, they make you haul your stuff out through the surf (which wasn't huge - but not very convienient) and flop it over the side of the boat. Don't know much more about them, we decided not to dive with them.
We took the ferry over to Cozumel to dive. $7 US one way. Sure added up by the end of the week. The new boat is about 35-40 minutes, smooth ride, airconditioned, highback padded seats and armrests, snack bar, big screen TV (if you like cartoons in spanish). 2 older boats take 65-70 minutes, wooden benches, seasick bags, same price. Check the schedules to get the new boat.
Playa is probably a better place to stay than Cozumel if you have non-divers in your group or you are not diving every day. It's a quick $5 cab ride to Xcaret. About the closest you can get to a theme park without rides. Mayan dances, a strange ballgame (I forget what it's called - but fun to watch), music, trapeeze acts, scale models of all the famous ruins, aquariums, turtles, monkeys, all kinds of stuff. They have an underground river for snorkeling but I'm not going to bother next time. To crowded, no fish (well - actually one). Then you have to carry your gear all day. You can rent a locker but fins don't fit in it.
Rent a car and see some ruins. Tulum is about an hour away.
Great place. Chichen Itza is a couple hours the other direction. Probably a better place but we were stupid and went on March 21st. The spring equinox, when the snake comes down the steps of the temple. 200,000 people were there in a place designed for a few thousand. Most exhibits closed, nowhere to move, drink vendors sold out, bathroom lines from here to Nebraska. I do believe it would be worth the trip on another day.
Like any other new vacation spot, you'll find a lot to like about it, probably a few things you don't. I'll be there again in March.
Tom
can't believe I talked that long