Pic out of focus with WAL

[midwestdvr]

I need help. I've been practicing using the WAL with the Ikelite housing for the a620. I don't have a picture right now but will hope to have one posted soon. I use center focus on the camera using manual settings. My problem is that the outer 1/6 of the pic on each side are out of focus but 2/3 of the pic by the center part is completely in focus. Anyone has any idea what may be causing this? Again, I'll try to post pics a little bit later. Thanks, y'all.

 

[Mike Veitch]

your camera thinks you are really hot and gets confused.....




Midwest, maui... what's yer name?

 

[Warren_L]

I suspect there may not be much you can do about it. With my Oly 5050 and Inon WAL, I get a bit of softness around the edges as well, so I just zoom in a touch or crop it out.

 

[Warren_L]

your camera thinks you are really hot and gets confused.....




Midwest, maui... what's yer name?

Down, boy!

 

[justleesa]

I suspect there may not be much you can do about it. With my Oly 5050 and Inon WAL, I get a bit of softness around the edges as well, so I just zoom in a touch or crop it out.

That's what I thought too, zooming in with the WAL will make the edges go fuzzy....the more ya zoom, the more it fuzzes

 

[f3nikon]

I suspect there may not be much you can do about it. With my Oly 5050 and Inon WAL, I get a bit of softness around the edges as well, so I just zoom in a touch or crop it out.

I am a bit puzzled…but what’s the point in having a wide angle lens attached when you have to “zoom” in to remove the fuzzy edges? Because by zooming in you just “zoomed” out the wide angle and will be back to the same “normal” angle of the prime lens in the first place, so you would be better off not using the wide angle attachment…or use the correct wide angle attachment design for that lens.

This is why I don't fool around with aftermarket lens attachment (except for the Raynox brand) and stick to the Olympus brand wide angle attachments like the WCON-7 series.

This Athena wide angle setup is the best I have seen for a point and shoot.

http://www.digitaldiver.net/yabbse/index.php?board=6;action=display;threadid=17235

 

[justleesa]

It may happen that I am shooting with my WAL and a shark or eagle rays show up...while trying to catch up with them I don't have the time to take off the WAL so I might zoom in a bit.....not out of practice...just turns out that way.

 

[Warren_L]

I am a bit puzzled…but what’s the point in having a wide angle lens attached when you have to “zoom” in to remove the fuzzy edges? Because by zooming in you just “zoomed” out the wide angle and will be back to the same “normal” angle of the prime lens in the first place, so you would be better off not using the wide angle attachment…or use the correct wide angle attachment design for that lens.

This is why I don't fool around with aftermarket lens attachment (except for the Raynox brand) and stick to the Olympus brand wide angle attachments like the WCON-7 series.

This Athena wide angle setup is the best I have seen for a point and shoot.

http://www.digitaldiver.net/yabbse/index.php?board=6;action=display;threadid=17235

If it's a limitation of the lens, you may have to do so. I typically don't as I crop out a bit, but it is still wider than without the lens, so while I understand what you are getting at, this doesn't negate the benefit of the WAL altogether as you indicate, but rather lessens the effect.

I don't really use my Oly 5050 with WAL (INON UWL-100 type II) that much anymore as I am shooting primarily with my Nikon D70 using 12-24. And while I don't have a WCON-7, I'm not convinced it would not have the same issues as with the INON.

 

[Mike Veitch]

Down, boy!

He is actually a man...

 

[Warren_L]

He is actually a man...

Ok, now I'm not sure what to think..... That's no manly pic.