Trip Report Paradise Taveuni-March/April 2024

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living4experiences

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Messages
943
Reaction score
1,227
Location
Tigard, Oregon
# of dives
500 - 999
Hi, All,

A Little Background. I have been very disappointed with the condition of the Caribbean reefs, so I no longer dive there. I’m exploring my boundaries to Asia and the South Pacific, and this trip I wanted to maximize my time in that part of the world, so I started my adventures at Paradise Taveuni (PT) from March 24 to April 2, 2024. I’m a single diver/traveler. My dive buddy can only take one trip a year, so I’m on my own for my trips. I like the comforts of modern life, so my absolute must have criteria for a dive trip accommodation is A/C, 24-hour power, and hot water.

Getting There. I flew from Portland, Oregon, to San Francisco on a United flight in the morning, picked up my bags, then checked into Fiji Airways for a direct overnight flight from SFO to Nadi (pronounced Nahn-dee). When I arrived in Nadi 10 ½ hours later, I picked up my bags, then checked in and boarded a domestic flight on Fiji Link to Taveuni in a prop plane. From there, I was picked up and transported by PT’s service for a 30-minute drive to the resort.

The flights went well, but we had a medical problem two hours after leaving SFO. The passenger two rows up from my seat was having seizures. His daughter was back in coach, so she was called up to render him aid. They also made an announcement if there was a doctor on the plane. There was no doctor on board. The daughter was able to get him calmed down, but it was a scary bit of time not knowing if we were turning back the flight. We arrived in Nadi with no further incidents.

Money. Only FJD is accepted in Fiji. The best place to get money is at the airport in Nadi. I have a Charles Schwab debit card, which reimburses me for any fees at the ATM. It was quick and easy, and the driver waited while I got the money. There is a 3% credit card fee everywhere in Fiji, so I got plenty of cash at that ATM. By the way, there’s no tipping in Fiji.

Baggage. Everything I read about Fiji Airways’ baggage rules can be thrown out the window. Since I had three separate flights on three airlines, my baggage rules were for the lowest allowable weight limit, which was Fiji Link, 33 pounds for checked luggage and 15 pounds for a carryon, plus a personal item. United’s allowance for coach was 50 pounds-no problem. I was in business class from SFO to Nadi, which allows 3 bags at 66 pounds each and 2 carry-ons, plus a personal item-no problem. I didn’t have anything close to that. The tricky part came to the Fiji Link flight. What they publish on the website and what a phone agent told me were completely different, so I ended up just prepaying for the extra weight to allow me 50 pounds. That’s the best way to do it because they charge a lot more at the counter.

My carryon was 25 pounds because my camera gear and the important stuff were in that bag. I knew I’d be rolling the dice. My personal item was a backpack. There were lots of people emptying out their carryon bags because they were too heavy, both in SFO and Nadi. They weighed everyone’s carryon. I think because I was in business class, they didn't weigh my carryon in SFO. When I got to Nadi, I played nice and humbly asked the agent if I could be allowed the overweight carryon since I just got off a business class flight. He made a big point that he should charge me because I was over the limit, but I was kindly persistent and he didn’t charge me for the excess weight or make me pay extra to check the carryon. Whew!!

Weather. It’s the South Pacific, so it was hot and humid. It rained nearly every day with a downpour, mostly in the overnight hours, but sometimes it started right before dinner. March to April is the tail end of the rainy season. Prior to my arrival, the previous two weeks had been very rainy and there was flooding throughout the island. Add to that the rain during my stay, and the visibility was poor. The water temps were 82-84 degrees F. There was mild to no current during the dives.

Paradise Taveuni. The grounds at PT were beautiful and everything you could imagine about a Fijian resort. Lush greens, grass, tropical plants, and stunning views. The staff was welcoming and friendly. The Fijian hospitality is genuine and after the first day, they knew me by name. Although, this is a full-service dive resort, the target demographic is divers, snorkelers, families, and kids. There were many newly-certified divers, along with inexperienced divers and those that hadn’t dived in several years. The resort was at full capacity the entire time I was there. It was a bit chaotic at times.

Wi-Fi. You get 15 minutes of free wifi each day at 1 mbps only available in the restaurant. If you want more data, the “premium” wifi for a fee is still at 1 mbps, but it’s unlimited. This is a remote island, so poor connection is expected. I have T-Mobile and I couldn’t even get a connection most of the time.

Food. French-pressed coffee, hot tea, and water are free all day long. There's a fee for iced tea, so I would order hot tea with a glass of ice. Sodas and alcohol are quite expensive, $4 for a can of Coke and $12-$15 for cocktails. Some of the food was very good and some not so good; and not so good meaning that meats would come out dry and overcooked. The portions were very big, much more food than I could eat in a meal. Fijians eat a lot of mayonnaise, both for dips and in sauces. The service was a bit slow at breakfast when all the divers are eating at once. I quickly figured out it was best to get breakfast between 6:30 and 7:00 a.m. before the rush starts. Diving starts at 8 a.m.

Snacks and Extras. I had read that it was a good idea to bring your own snacks, alcohol, sodas, water, etc., because of the resort prices and lack of choices. My transport driver happily stopped at a market so I could get those things.

Safe Water. PT does not provide bottled water, not even Fiji water, which is their own country’s drinking water. I tried my best before leaving for this trip to get a clear answer from PT about how they sourced their drinking water, and the answer I got was that it was filtered. I have found in my travels that “filtered” can mean different things in different countries. So during the grocery stop, I stocked up on bottled water. Before leaving the U.S., I also purchased a LifeStraw water bottle in case I needed it. At the resort, I was shown how the water was filtered and it was perfectly acceptable. Note that you cannot drink the tap water anywhere on the grounds except from the restaurant. You can shower and brush your teeth safely with the tap water.

Meke Performance. This is a traditional Fijian dance performed by locals. Since I had never seen this before, I wasn’t sure what to expect. There was one hula dancer dancing to recorded hip-hop music, not traditional Fijian music. I’ll just say it was weird.

Accommodation. PT fouled up my reservation and put me in a different room on arrival than what I booked because they oversold my room category. After three days in the substitute room, I had to then move to the other room, which meant I couldn’t really unpack everything. I made this booking one year in advance with the help of Bluewater Dive Travel, so I was surprised this happened. It was poor planning on their part. This was the start of a whole host of problems.

The accommodation has a lack of plugs. You’ll need Australian adapters. The A/C was barely able to keep up with the heat and I had to keep the bathroom door shut just to get the room cool enough to sleep at night. There are no glass windows, just screens with wooden shutters-not very energy efficient. They run off generator power 24 hours a day, and there was plenty of hot water for a shower with good water pressure. The power was lost multiple times during my stay at all hours of the day or night. I don’t know why. One of the other guests had reported that their A/C stopped working. It was not repaired for three days. Since the resort was full, there was nowhere to move them.

It bugs me when I stay someplace that the hangers don’t come off the rod, so I travel with lightweight, plastic, foldable hangers. I needed them at PT. They’ve got the kind of hangers that are attached with a solid metal ring, which make the hanger useless if you want to remove it. I like to hang things around the room to dry. Included amenities are a hair dryer and the standard toiletries, along with a coffee/tea setup and a mini fridge. In addition to the indoor shower, there is an outdoor shower with plenty of privacy. The mosquitoes are fierce. Unfortunately, I am a mosquito magnet, so I have to be smothered in insect repellent when I’m outside.

The mattresses are very old and uncomfortable, soft and soggy in the middle. Cyclone Winston hit in 2016 and wiped out PT. They rebuilt the resort, so the mattresses have not been replaced since then. Since I was in the temporary room to start, I did not unpack my blow-up camping pad. My back was sore every morning. When I was moved to the new room, I pulled the sheets back to set up the camping pad, and what I saw was a mattress that was filthy and falling apart. Thankfully, I did not get any bed bug bites.

When I brought this to the attention of the owner, she offered to give me a new mattress. When the “new” mattress was swapped out while I was diving, I came back to find what I got was another dirty mattress in the same condition. I’m attaching photos. The owner’s definition of “new” was quite different than mine. She said they don’t have “new” mattresses that are in plastic wrap in a storage area. They swap out the mattresses to air them out and they are not transported back and forth or stored with any plastic covering. They’re essentially just dragged around in the dirt and then stored uncovered.

(To be continued)
 

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Trip Report Continued.

The Diving. The onsite shop is Pro Dive. There is a small camera room. Nitrox is available and my fills were 30%-32%, but they were consistently low fills at 200 bar (2900 pounds). The dive guides were masters at finding the small stuff, and I wouldn’t have been able to see these critters and take photos had they not pointed them out for me. They were great! I confirmed with the owner before my arrival that the dive groups were no bigger than six divers per guide. To my disappointment, there were times when the groups were seven or eight divers per guide.

For a resort with so many guests, they only have two boats, a smaller dive boat and a bigger boat that has a rack of chairs in several rows on the top deck for the non-diving excursions but also used as a dive boat. The bigger boat was chartered for a group, so everyone else was on the smaller boat. That was 13-15 divers, plus 4-6 staff. To say it was overcrowded is an understatement. Divers had no room to move around or get ready. Because of the design of this boat, it was shoulder to shoulder, knees to knees with fins overlapping. The groups were poorly organized such that the divers were scattered all over the boat instead of putting group one in the front, group two behind them, etc.

After the charter group left, the big boat disappeared. They said it was scheduled for maintenance. Really? A resort full of divers and you send the boat out for maintenance? Now there were so many divers for one boat that they had to split the groups into a.m. and p.m. dives when normally all diving is done in the morning only. This went on for three days. Then when that boat came back, they sent the smaller boat away for maintenance. Jeez!

The waters were very flat in the morning, so it was a nice ride to and from the sites. After lunch, the wind and waves picked up. When they split the groups into a.m. and p.m. dives, the p.m. divers got stuck with a very rough boat ride and a rough entry and exit from the boat. Having this disrupted dive schedule also impacted the pre-scheduled afternoon non-diving activities, like the village visit or hiking or going to the waterfalls. There were a lot of unhappy divers.

The Critters. There was quite a broad range of marine life, large and small—eagle rays, turtles, white tip sharks, gray reef sharks, black tip sharks, hammerheads, schooling barracuda, clown fish, hump head wrasse, giant clams, bump head parrotfish, clown triggerfish, popcorn shrimp, lots of nudis, blue fusiliers, Irish setter ghost pipefish, flatworms, crabs, wasp fish, leaf scorpion fish, starfish, rock mover wrasse (both juvenile and adult), spade fish, a huge porcupine fish with eyes as big as a 50-cent piece, a pod of dolphins on the surface. The stuff I didn’t see was soft coral. I asked the captain one day to take us to a site with soft coral, but he didn’t. I wonder if this area has soft coral. There were many places that had dead corals and corals covered in red algae and other places where there was stunning stag horn coral.

The Great White Wall at Rainbow Reef. This is a site that can only be dived on certain calendar days to see the white wall in its biggest bloom in white coral. My trip didn’t line up with the dates, so I wasn’t expecting to go there. Our boat captain took us out there one day when the tides were right, however, the wall was not in full bloom, so it was somewhat underwhelming. It’s a deep dive, 90+ feet. I was unable to get a single photo because the wall was covered in divers and diver bubbles and some divers were flailing around unable to maintain buoyancy.

The House Reef. PT has the best house reef I’ve ever seen. I’m not a shore diver because of a bad knee, but I was able to get a couple of guided daytime and night shore dives and the guide helped me with donning and doffing the equipment. It’s a ladder entry and exit from the boat dock, and depending on the tide, it was a bit rough putting on and taking off the gear in the water. There was so much to see at just 30-40 feet. I really enjoyed their house reef.

Final Thoughts. There were some other annoyances that by themselves wouldn’t count for much, but when added to the other bigger issues, I was looking forward to leaving. Somewhere along the way, I emailed my travel agent at Bluewater and told her what was going on with the dirty bed and boats being out of service. Bluewater apologized for what happened. Without a direct apology from the owners of the resort, I was given a free 90-minute massage and a free guided night dive. Given the logistics to get to Taveuni and my onsite experience, this was a one-and-done for me.

What I can say as a positive is that the marine life and reefs in the South Pacific are refreshingly new, healthy, and different from the bland and boring Caribbean. There were many “firsts” for me, like a devil scorpion fish and ribbon eels. When I left Taveuni, I took a Fiji Link flight back to Nadi for my next leg of diving at Volivoli. That will be in the next trip report.
 

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Thanks very, very much for this helpful review. I've been wanting to go to Paradise Taveuni for a while, and Bluewater have always highly recommended it, so your experience is really troubling. Have you considered pressing Bluewater harder for some recompense? I think they owe you something, maybe a credit on a future trip, especially given the boat situation, which I think is/was totally unacceptable.

Looking forward to your review of Volivoli, hoping you had a good experience.
 
Just back from Volivoli as well (did Beqa too) and looking forward to hearing your thoughts! Sat next to someone on the way home from Nadi to LAX that LOVES Taveuni Dive Resort and I was considering that for our next trip. Loved Voli, but was a bit expensive and those boat rides were LOOOONNG even though we thought the diving was crazy good.
 
Thanks for the report. The diving there was better than caribbean sites and better than (or at least very different from) French Polynesia. We stayed near Taveuni but at Matangi but did get to the white wall and a few others near Taveuni. Great soft corals. Glad you got to see a blue ribbon eel. I thought I was lucky years ago to see a lionfish but now they have made it to the Caribbean/Atlantic side.
Drinks were expensive so we picked up bottle of grey goose in duty free before.
I still don't know why they offer hot tea on a hot day. Even on the SI.
You did not mention sampling the kava.
 
Thanks for your very thorough report. I am wondering if you considered any other Taveuni resorts before choosing Paradise, and could you share which they were? Given what you learned about the conditions of the beds and the crowded dive boats at Paradise, I'd definitely steer away from them if/when I go.

I've done two trips to Fiji - the last one in 2012 - both involving liveaboard and then a stay in Pacific Harbour to do the sharks. I had pretty much ruled out going back......and then I saw your report and the picture of one of my Holy Grails.....the Hairy (Irish Setter) Ghostpipefish. That alone would make the trip worthwhile.

Do you recall which divesites and type (wall, reef, muck...) if more than one sighting?

Thank you.
 
Thanks for the report. The diving there was better than caribbean sites and better than (or at least very different from) French Polynesia. We stayed near Taveuni but at Matangi but did get to the white wall and a few others near Taveuni. Great soft corals. Glad you got to see a blue ribbon eel. I thought I was lucky years ago to see a lionfish but now they have made it to the Caribbean/Atlantic side.
Drinks were expensive so we picked up bottle of grey goose in duty free before.
I still don't know why they offer hot tea on a hot day. Even on the SI.
You did not mention sampling the kava.
An interesting observation I made about the lionfish is that they are normal size in the South Pacific, indicating a balanced food chain, whereas in the Caribbean, they are monstrous in size.

I did partake in the kava and it was nasty. Tasted like dirt.
 

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Thanks for your very thorough report. I am wondering if you considered any other Taveuni resorts before choosing Paradise, and could you share which they were? Given what you learned about the conditions of the beds and the crowded dive boats at Paradise, I'd definitely steer away from them if/when I go.

I've done two trips to Fiji - the last one in 2012 - both involving liveaboard and then a stay in Pacific Harbour to do the sharks. I had pretty much ruled out going back......and then I saw your report and the picture of one of my Holy Grails.....the Hairy (Irish Setter) Ghostpipefish. That alone would make the trip worthwhile.

Do you recall which divesites and type (wall, reef, muck...) if more than one sighting?

Thank you.
I looked at Sau Bay and Taveuni Dive, but they don't have A/C, and that's a no-go for me. Bluewater Travel highly recommended Paradise Taveuni, and I relied on that advice.

The Irish Setter ghost pipefish was beautiful. When the dive guide is excited, that means it's a special find. At first glance, it looked like red algae just floating, then it comes into focus. He found it on the sand. I don't remember what dive site and it was the only one I saw.
 
Fiji water isn't really the national water. It's an overpriced racket that most of the locals can't afford and does very little for the community other than bribing some of the government.


That's an interesting read. I personally don't care for the Fiji branded water. The Ph is too high. I am critical of the resorts, though, that they don't supply bottled water of some sort when the local water is unsafe to drink and there's not a market nearby to buy your own. The guest then has to rely on their purification and sanitation procedures to produce safe drinking water, and that's usually not up to the same standards as developed countries.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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