Panama in January; Coiba, Bocas, Portobelo, Pedasi, Contadora??

[cruth82]

This winter, I will be in Panama for a week over New Years to visit my sister - she lives in Coronado (about an hour west of Panama City). I've done some research, but I would love some first-hand insight into some of these possible destinations!

I've heard that Coiba is the best diving in Panama, but that it's quite advanced. We all have PADI Open Water certification, but not much experience - my husband and I have about 15-20 dives each (nothing particularly deep or challenging), and my sister and her husband slightly more. We dive about once or twice a year. The dive shop I looked into in Santa Catalina (Scuba Coiba) said on its website that it can adjust dive sites to accommodate less experienced divers, but does anyone know if the site would still be worth it in that case? Or is it "dumbed down" to the point where we'd miss the whole point of being in Coiba?

Bocas del Toro - what's it like in early January? I read that it can be quite silty at that time - anyone have personal experience with that? The last few times we dove were in Cuba at Jibacoa and Cayo Coco - nothing spectacular. By the end of our dives in Cayo Coco we were rather tired of the same mostly-brown fish. I prefer the idea of warm Caribbean to cold Pacific, but if there's nothing much to see I might just have to suit up against the cold!

Portobelo is the other site my guidebook mentions. The impression that I got is that it's somewhat underwhelming, but at least it's diving. Accurate?

Other options not in my book are Isla Contadora (this was actually recommended to my sister), but the above-water options look somewhat desolate. Not a lot of accommodations in operation on the island, and the giant abandoned resort decaying on the beach sets a bit of an unpleasant tone... I don't know much about the actual diving, but it didn't sound inviting overall!

The last spot I'm thinking of is Pedasi. My guide book mentions diving there but it's not listed as a top destination - I'm mostly including it in the consideration because it's the closest to my sister's house in Coronado, and therefore easiest to get to. Anyone been diving there?

Thanks so much in advance for any feedback you can provide - I appreciate the help!

 

[RyanT]

Hi Cruth:

Diving Coiba can be challenging. On average, you can expect lower visibility than the caribbean side (although it can be quite good at times), cooler temperatures, bigger waves, and more current. Coiba can be done safely by those with less experience, just be upfront with your dive operator about your experience so they can make sure to put you on easier sites.

Isla Contadora is a pretty small, quiet place. You can walk the entire island in under an hour. They have a couple of B&Bs on the residential end of the island that are really nice. There are some nice beaches that are not terribly crowded (at least in July). The water tends to be clearer and warmer than Coiba. In my experience, the one dive shop is more miss than hit. They often don't respond to your requests and have cancelled on me in good weather (not enough divers, maybe? it wasn't clear why they cancelled).

I haven't dived off Bocas, so I can't comment on that, but I don't particularly care for the area. It is a bit of a touristy/party place, so it's just not for me.

In my experience, you can't go wrong with Golden frog Scuba in Portobello. Indeed, the diving is not spectacular by Caribbean standards. That being said, I really enjoyed the dives there. Particularly if you like watching some of the smaller critters on the reef. The sites are very close to shore, mostly 15-20 minutes boat rides. The boat is small, so you won't be diving a big cattle boat with tons of other people. The owner Rey Sanchez, is very knowledgable, helpful, and laid back. We stayed at the Coco Plum hotel where the dive shop is. So we got up and walked out of the room and onto the boat. They also have a restaurant on site. The room was very comfortable, but you may not have hot water. That didn't really bother me. I think Golden Frog can also recommend a more upscale place to stay nearby.

 

[Lorenzoid]

If you have dived locally in Canada, Coiba will be fine for you. My wife and I very much enjoyed our few days with Scuba Coiba. We didn't find the currents to be even as challenging as the currents in Cozumel. Keep in mind that staying at the ranger station bunkhouse on Coiba Island is a bit like camping--insects, no air-con, etc. This is not like tropical resort diving.

 

[gb_williams]

Scuba Coiba has changed divemasters since I was last there, two years ago. That's a very good thing, and I've read good reviews about the new DMs. Yes, Coiba can be very challenging with strong currents and low visibility. In late January/early February, I found the currents to be much stronger than Cozumel. The visibility will vary from 60-70 feet to barely 10 feet. Remember, you can always abort a dive if you are uncomfortable.

In January, you will encounter thermoclines, where the temp drops from low 80s to low 70s/upper 60s. So, wearing a 5 mm full suit and a fleece cap or hood is good idea. There were only two male XLs at Scuba Coiba when I went. I took the one with the smaller hole which quickly grew into a large tear. If you don't have a 5 mm full suit, I'd recommend renting one from your local dive shop before you go. Or, you could use a 3 mm full suit and a shorty.

The marine life of Coiba is very similar to Hawaii. On Coiba, you'll see the same types of tropical reef fish, plus plentiful frog fish and many more reef sharks. There's also a good chance you'll see mobulas and whale sharks. Don't expect to see much coral. The bottom is mostly rock and coral is in small patches.

Lorenzoid is right about the bunkhouses on Coiba. They're Spartan. But, we did have air conditioning and electricity between 7 pm and 7 am. The food though, was great! And, Herbie (the owner/operator of Scuba Coiba) arranged a separate room for my wife and I, so we did have more privacy.

At Pedasi, you'll dive Isla Iguana. Our Panamanian friends, who have also dived Coiba and Contadora, did not like Isla Iguana. They found the visibility to be poor and very little marine life. They also persuaded us not to go to Contadora for diving, just snorkeling. After numerous attempts in both Spanish and English, I finally gave up on trying to contact the dive shop there.

I've been diving Bocas del Toro since 2000 and Isla Grande/Portobelo since 2003.

Portobelo is the closest dive op to Panama City. (It will be 2 1/2 hours from Playa Coronado.) Golden Frog is a new op in Portobelo, and I haven't used them, only Scubapanama. (Lorenzoid -- what does Golden Frog charge for a 2-tank dive? Last I looked, they didn't have their rates online.) Scubapanama and their neighbors, Panama Divers, charge as much as dive ops on Grand Cayman for far, far less service, equipment and quality diving. Plus, they will nickel-dime you death.

Portobelo used to be my favorite place to dive in Panama. The water was warm and the reefs were lush, colorful, healthy and full of marine life. Scubapanama charged $85 for a 2-tank dive and the same for a 1-tank night dive. Since 2010, all that has changed. Sediment and run-off from construction, over-fishing and lionfish have decimated the four dive sites you can get to December - August. (More and much healthier sites open up on the barrier reef when the seas calm between September and mid-late November.) The numbers and species of marine life is low. Many of the colorful hard corals are dead and/or covered in silt. On a good day, you'll get 40 feet of vis on the sheltered dive sites. Much more on the Wall -- when you can get there. Following the lead of Panama Divers, Scubapanama raised their rates to $125 for a 2-tank dive plus $10 rental per tank and $35 for the DM, which is divided among the divers on the boat.

If you do go to Portobelo, Scubapanama (Sunset Cabins) does have nice, but very basic, cabañas (cabins) at reasonable rates. Sra. Chong (the housekeeper) is a great cook, but you'll find lunch and dinner just as good and far cheaper next door at one of my favorite restaurants in Portobelo, Los Cañones.

Bocas del Toro has always been a go-to place for international backpackers, known for cheap hostels and a party atmosphere. Over the last ten years, it has become gringo touristy, filled with rich condo renters and trendy "eco-tourists" who love to tear up the jungle in their ATVs and ride ziplines through what was once monkey and sloth habitat. Before the condo development stripped that portion of the land on Bastimentos, you had to be careful not to step on frogs when walking to Red Frog Beach. Now, you don't see any.

As for the diving, it's better than Portobelo and the costs are less, too. The water is bathtub warm, but not great on visibility. Expect anywhere from 10 to 60 feet, depending on how much it has rained recently. (Rain drives sediment down the streams and into the sea.) Overfishing and lionfish have also taken their toll, here. But, there are still large, beautiful coral formations and lots of fish and critters to see. Bocas actually has more species of coral and reef fish than Grand Cayman -- just not as many dive sites, nor as much visibility, nor are the dive sites as spectacular as Grand Cayman, Cozumel or Roatan. In fact, most of your diving will be between 15 and 40 feet. There are more toadfish and brittle stars here than I've seen anywhere else, including Roatan and Cozumel. If you look, you can find lots of nudibranchs and sea horses in the soft corals. There are the typical Caribbean reef fish ranging from nurse sharks and rays to green and spotted morays to drums, grunts, snappers, tangs and the rest.

The best dive op is La Buga. Hopefully, Leandro is still there. (The best DM/Instructor in Bocas.) Avoid Starfleet.

¡Desfrute Panamá!

 

[RyanT]

Golden Frog charges $90 for a two tank dive and as is typical of most places, includes tanks and weights. It seems a little pricey, but what isn't these days? Besides, we got such great attention and had the boat to ourselves on some days (just two of us), so I thought it was great. In June we had 80 degree water and average 40-60 vis.

Scubapanama and their neighbors, Panama Divers, charge as much as dive ops on Grand Cayman for far, far less service, equipment and quality diving. Plus, they will nickel-dime you death.

Yes, that was my experience too. Panama divers also don't communicate with you very well. Golden Frog, and their counterpart Panama Dive Adventure, communicate well and certainly don't nickel and dime you. They have good fills and nitrox as well.

 

[Lorenzoid]

Per gb's input, I guess the currents at Coiba are seasonal and vary by dive site. I can only speak for my one visit, which was in September 2013. We encountered great vis and no currents to speak of.

I would love to return to Panama, and not just for the diving. What a beautiful country.

 

[gb_williams]

My Panamanian friends tell me that July through September are the best months to dive Coiba. The colder, lower layer that brings the plankton (and less visibility) is still low in the water column. That also means no whale sharks or manta rays.

I would love to return to Panama, and not just for the diving. What a beautiful country.

Yes, it is! Let me know if you need a tour guide.

 

[José Pérez]

The best diving operator in Portobelo is Dive Adventure, located under the Cocoplum Hostal, Talk to Alvaro Silva, the guy is super experienced. (over 10,000 dives).

Their rental equipment is in pristine shape. They also have Nitrox.

Tell him to take you to the wrecks.


Here are the prices.

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[José Pérez]

 

[flyboy08]

We stayed and dove off of Isla Contadora! Loved the Island! The few restaurants we ate at were amazing. The diving was green and ok...not great. We only dove once as a British TV group took up all availability for the week.

Did you know this Island is known for being the first island to aire Survivor....I didn't