mtnaire
Registered
Finally getting around to filing this report after what was an amazing trip to Palau for the dates, 5/12/11 - 5/28/11.
I initially had posted a message here requesting input about everyone's preference of dive centers in Palau, the outcome of which was references to both Sam's and Fish 'n Fins. I contacted both centers via email, but seemed to get a more immediate and detailed response from Fish 'n Fins and so felt that to be the better choice, as traveling the distance I was, I wanted to be thorough in all the details about my trip.
My initial contact at Fish 'n Fins, Christobal, did a wonderful job of answering my initial questions which were many, with my then being handed off to Charito who set my mind at ease in knowing that my accommodations and diving was arranged in full.
My brother and I arrived to be received by a Fish 'n Fins representative at the airport who took us to our hotel. We checked in at Caroline's which turned out to be an amazing place, with unrivaled views and even some Japanese WWII relics in the way of AA guns located along the ridgeline on an unmarked trail which became an unexpected discovery of mine.
The following morning, we were picked up at 07:30 am by Fish 'n Fins reps and taken to the dive center which was about a 10 minute drive away. The center was modern with a large stock of rental equipment although I had no need for this as I had brought my own. They even had decent rinse area and a secure gear storage locker which kept me from having to lug my stuff to and fro each day.
The diving in Palau is top notch. This being said after having dived the Galapagos, Red Sea, Thailand (Similans) and Mexico. Never before have I seen such an array of reef fish, sharks, rays, schooling pelagics, corals, soft and hard of every sort, and super friendly Napoleon Wrasse at Blue Corner. We literally saw White Tip and/or Grey Reef sharks on every dive! Great Hammerheads and Bull Sharks too are known for gathering here. Highlights this trip were late season Manta sightings at German Channel 2 out of 4 dives there; reef hooking at Blue Corner, Ulong Wall and Pelelieu Express, something that I'm now "hooked" into doing at other sites as this simply is the best and least harmful method of securing oneself to non-living sections of reef while in the presence of swift current; wreck diving...forget Truk, this place has it all! Did penetration dives of both the "Helmet" and Iro wrecks, the latter of which was simply incredible; Yellow Wall in Pelelieu (the Pelelieu Express was uneventful, being "off" during the full moon of the 17th, who would have thought) and also the land tour of the island itself which hosts a lot of WWII relics as it was the site of one of the largest battles in the South Pacific.
I cannot say enough good things about the Iro wreck. A Japanese fleet oiler that had originally been torpedoed by a US sub. it somehow managed to stay afloat and escaped to the shelter of Palau only to then be dive bombed by a carrier plane a week later during the US invasion of the islands. The deck of the wreck sits in roughly 90 feet of water and has multiple access areas to various holds including the engine room. There are also two massive deck guns on large spindles and large towers used for refueling that loom above you. The approach we took was a swim through a massive hole in the stern (cause unknown) followed by a path along the entire ship which included two penetrations, including the engine room. An amazing dive and a must do if you like wrecks.
Water temp was a nice 30 degrees celsius on average even at depth, which virtually made needing a wetsuit unnecessary, with my wearing my 3mm shorty on only a couple days when a typhoon, yes typhoon Songda (just my luck), decided to pay us a visit, but only skirted the islands.
As for guides, amazing staff at Fish 'n Fins. Owners Tova and/or Navot made an effort to greet us as we returned each day, truly interested in knowing how our experience had been. As for the divemasters, simply top notch. Two fine examples, Clint and Emerald both local Palauans, know these reefs well, having dived them for years, which certainly made a difference. They even allowed us to extend our bottom time, surfacing in separate groups so the "weakest link" on air didn't drag everyone to the surface.
As for the guides, Tova pointed out to me that Fish 'n Fins is one of the only dive centers in Palau that tries to employ local Palauans as guides, which of course I'm going to accept know these reefs better than some foreign guide who is there for just a few months before heading on to another locale. This was apparently the case with a Sam's party I ran into who mentioned during a conversation I had with them while parked on an island during our interval, that they had 2 crappy days with a foreign guide who didn't feel comfortable diving some of the areas we had already dived ourselves with Fish 'n Fins that were amazing dives. Case and point I suppose.
As for lodging, Carolines as mentioned was top notch with amazing views and a getting away from it all feel, yet a short taxi ride from downtown Koror. They even bring breakfast to your private bungalow each morning from a simple yet well put together menu at a time of your choosing. Staying here also entitles you to use of the amenities of the beautiful Palau Pacific Resort which is an easy 20 minute walk.
I also stayed at Arai Water Paradise resort towards the end of my stay to save some $$ but would not recommend it unless you are a Chinese speaking guest, who they are apparently marketing to. The remote control operating the A/C was in Chinese and nearly impossible to figure out, along with exclusively Chinese programming to be found on the tv, and Chinese food at the breakfast buffet. I don't mind rice noodle, stir fry and broth normally, but not for breakfast! They also advertise Internet being available, but as it turns out, only for those totting lap tops. A rather run-down place which is presently receiving a much needed remodel and not much of a deal at around $150/night.
Best lodging option at a bargain, the DW. A simple no frills place but includes A/C, daily housekeeping, a rinse area for dive gear, and an internet cafe and runs only $50/night. It's also located conveniently in downtown Koror within easy walking distance of shops and restaurants. Wish I knew of this place before I pre-booked at the Arai, but spent 4 wonderful nights here just the same.
As for Internet, everyone advertises "wifi" and "high-speed" but it is a snails crawl at best, where accessing even something as simple as my email was impossible at times. The best connection seemed to be at Palau Pacific Resort, and this was after trying a lot of different places. As for uploading pics and video for the folks and friends back home, wait until you get back.
As for restaurants, local food is best found at the Penthouse restaurant (no affiliation to the mag) which even serves up local delicacies such as coconut crab and even fruit bat if you're brave enough (I wasn't).
Another great place for simple cheap comfort food is the Rock Island Cafe. Huge menu, good food and great prices.
And then there's the small shack that serves up one of the best burgers and shakes I've ever had...Bem Ermii! A favorite among locals and yours truly now as well.
What amazes me the most about Palau is the pristine conditions of the reefs and the focus on conservation. These reefs are home to the world's first shark sanctuary, which given the world's declining populations in the face of shark fining, is something desperately needed. Tova herself is president of the Micronesian Shark Foundation, which routinely conducts population count and tracking studies.
Concerning however is the recent attempt by Texas oil a-holes trying to buy their way into Palau's desire for economic independence by selling these people on the idea of doing exploratory drilling to the north in Kayangel. After much public debate and scrutiny, they apparently are now going forth with this. What this may mean to the security of these reefs in the future is anyone's guess, but the recent BP event has made it all too clear what can happen, and in much less pristine waters. And if this wasn't enough, some Asian investors want to bring casinos to Palau, a vote on which is to happen later this month. Fortunately, it has been attempted many times before and has not gathered much traction, so hopefully the same can be said for future attempts. The leadership in Palau so far seems to be going for the quick fix to remedy its financial woes and dependence on foreign monies which is ironic as the place is an environmental jewel where eco-tourism could flourish, yet strangely, remains grossly underrepresented.
I'll continue to support the efforts of groups like the Palau Conservation Society Palau Conservation Society: About Us and their efforts to keep these forces at bay, and Palau from becoming another Guam...
I initially had posted a message here requesting input about everyone's preference of dive centers in Palau, the outcome of which was references to both Sam's and Fish 'n Fins. I contacted both centers via email, but seemed to get a more immediate and detailed response from Fish 'n Fins and so felt that to be the better choice, as traveling the distance I was, I wanted to be thorough in all the details about my trip.
My initial contact at Fish 'n Fins, Christobal, did a wonderful job of answering my initial questions which were many, with my then being handed off to Charito who set my mind at ease in knowing that my accommodations and diving was arranged in full.
My brother and I arrived to be received by a Fish 'n Fins representative at the airport who took us to our hotel. We checked in at Caroline's which turned out to be an amazing place, with unrivaled views and even some Japanese WWII relics in the way of AA guns located along the ridgeline on an unmarked trail which became an unexpected discovery of mine.
The following morning, we were picked up at 07:30 am by Fish 'n Fins reps and taken to the dive center which was about a 10 minute drive away. The center was modern with a large stock of rental equipment although I had no need for this as I had brought my own. They even had decent rinse area and a secure gear storage locker which kept me from having to lug my stuff to and fro each day.
The diving in Palau is top notch. This being said after having dived the Galapagos, Red Sea, Thailand (Similans) and Mexico. Never before have I seen such an array of reef fish, sharks, rays, schooling pelagics, corals, soft and hard of every sort, and super friendly Napoleon Wrasse at Blue Corner. We literally saw White Tip and/or Grey Reef sharks on every dive! Great Hammerheads and Bull Sharks too are known for gathering here. Highlights this trip were late season Manta sightings at German Channel 2 out of 4 dives there; reef hooking at Blue Corner, Ulong Wall and Pelelieu Express, something that I'm now "hooked" into doing at other sites as this simply is the best and least harmful method of securing oneself to non-living sections of reef while in the presence of swift current; wreck diving...forget Truk, this place has it all! Did penetration dives of both the "Helmet" and Iro wrecks, the latter of which was simply incredible; Yellow Wall in Pelelieu (the Pelelieu Express was uneventful, being "off" during the full moon of the 17th, who would have thought) and also the land tour of the island itself which hosts a lot of WWII relics as it was the site of one of the largest battles in the South Pacific.
I cannot say enough good things about the Iro wreck. A Japanese fleet oiler that had originally been torpedoed by a US sub. it somehow managed to stay afloat and escaped to the shelter of Palau only to then be dive bombed by a carrier plane a week later during the US invasion of the islands. The deck of the wreck sits in roughly 90 feet of water and has multiple access areas to various holds including the engine room. There are also two massive deck guns on large spindles and large towers used for refueling that loom above you. The approach we took was a swim through a massive hole in the stern (cause unknown) followed by a path along the entire ship which included two penetrations, including the engine room. An amazing dive and a must do if you like wrecks.
Water temp was a nice 30 degrees celsius on average even at depth, which virtually made needing a wetsuit unnecessary, with my wearing my 3mm shorty on only a couple days when a typhoon, yes typhoon Songda (just my luck), decided to pay us a visit, but only skirted the islands.
As for guides, amazing staff at Fish 'n Fins. Owners Tova and/or Navot made an effort to greet us as we returned each day, truly interested in knowing how our experience had been. As for the divemasters, simply top notch. Two fine examples, Clint and Emerald both local Palauans, know these reefs well, having dived them for years, which certainly made a difference. They even allowed us to extend our bottom time, surfacing in separate groups so the "weakest link" on air didn't drag everyone to the surface.
As for the guides, Tova pointed out to me that Fish 'n Fins is one of the only dive centers in Palau that tries to employ local Palauans as guides, which of course I'm going to accept know these reefs better than some foreign guide who is there for just a few months before heading on to another locale. This was apparently the case with a Sam's party I ran into who mentioned during a conversation I had with them while parked on an island during our interval, that they had 2 crappy days with a foreign guide who didn't feel comfortable diving some of the areas we had already dived ourselves with Fish 'n Fins that were amazing dives. Case and point I suppose.
As for lodging, Carolines as mentioned was top notch with amazing views and a getting away from it all feel, yet a short taxi ride from downtown Koror. They even bring breakfast to your private bungalow each morning from a simple yet well put together menu at a time of your choosing. Staying here also entitles you to use of the amenities of the beautiful Palau Pacific Resort which is an easy 20 minute walk.
I also stayed at Arai Water Paradise resort towards the end of my stay to save some $$ but would not recommend it unless you are a Chinese speaking guest, who they are apparently marketing to. The remote control operating the A/C was in Chinese and nearly impossible to figure out, along with exclusively Chinese programming to be found on the tv, and Chinese food at the breakfast buffet. I don't mind rice noodle, stir fry and broth normally, but not for breakfast! They also advertise Internet being available, but as it turns out, only for those totting lap tops. A rather run-down place which is presently receiving a much needed remodel and not much of a deal at around $150/night.
Best lodging option at a bargain, the DW. A simple no frills place but includes A/C, daily housekeeping, a rinse area for dive gear, and an internet cafe and runs only $50/night. It's also located conveniently in downtown Koror within easy walking distance of shops and restaurants. Wish I knew of this place before I pre-booked at the Arai, but spent 4 wonderful nights here just the same.
As for Internet, everyone advertises "wifi" and "high-speed" but it is a snails crawl at best, where accessing even something as simple as my email was impossible at times. The best connection seemed to be at Palau Pacific Resort, and this was after trying a lot of different places. As for uploading pics and video for the folks and friends back home, wait until you get back.
As for restaurants, local food is best found at the Penthouse restaurant (no affiliation to the mag) which even serves up local delicacies such as coconut crab and even fruit bat if you're brave enough (I wasn't).
Another great place for simple cheap comfort food is the Rock Island Cafe. Huge menu, good food and great prices.
And then there's the small shack that serves up one of the best burgers and shakes I've ever had...Bem Ermii! A favorite among locals and yours truly now as well.
What amazes me the most about Palau is the pristine conditions of the reefs and the focus on conservation. These reefs are home to the world's first shark sanctuary, which given the world's declining populations in the face of shark fining, is something desperately needed. Tova herself is president of the Micronesian Shark Foundation, which routinely conducts population count and tracking studies.
Concerning however is the recent attempt by Texas oil a-holes trying to buy their way into Palau's desire for economic independence by selling these people on the idea of doing exploratory drilling to the north in Kayangel. After much public debate and scrutiny, they apparently are now going forth with this. What this may mean to the security of these reefs in the future is anyone's guess, but the recent BP event has made it all too clear what can happen, and in much less pristine waters. And if this wasn't enough, some Asian investors want to bring casinos to Palau, a vote on which is to happen later this month. Fortunately, it has been attempted many times before and has not gathered much traction, so hopefully the same can be said for future attempts. The leadership in Palau so far seems to be going for the quick fix to remedy its financial woes and dependence on foreign monies which is ironic as the place is an environmental jewel where eco-tourism could flourish, yet strangely, remains grossly underrepresented.
I'll continue to support the efforts of groups like the Palau Conservation Society Palau Conservation Society: About Us and their efforts to keep these forces at bay, and Palau from becoming another Guam...
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